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Thread: Iceland and Faroe Islands - Bridge Between Continents...

  1. #31
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Iceland Day 11 - Wed, 30 Aug 17:


    Map of Day 11

    I no longer have that wet and clammy feeling after sliding my socks into my boots! They are finally dry after three days!

    It was a fairly late start because we had to wait for the camp attendant to show up so we could pay for camping. Iceland has a much more relaxed vibe that the USA - even if money is involved.


    Álög, a monument by the sculptor Steinunn Ţórarinsdóttir.


    Brightly colored hostels look like converted military barracks.

    We left Sandgerđi and headed south to Miđlína. This is a bridge that is laid over two continental plates - the America plate and the Europe plate. The distance expands about a few centimeters every year.


    You are here - right between continental plates.


    Standing between continental tectonic plates.


    There were also a lot of custom engraved locks hanging from the railings of the bridge. I didn't know putting your lock on a place you've been was a thing. Guess it is.

    We also stopped at Gunnuhver Hot Springs. It's quite impressive seeing Earth's hot water boil and froth above the surface. The steam rising from the springs can be seen for miles.


    Waving to other motorcyclists. Little did I know, this African Twin would be parked right next to me a week later on the ferry.


    The mules parked near the beach while we enjoy a short walk and drone flight. It was here that I almost had a bird strike while flying our drone to capture some shots of the beach.


    Who takes pictures of candy bars? Folks from the USA who don't see this kind of candy bar - that's who. Anyhow, it's kinda like a 100 grand with a wafer.



    A bit of fun on the way to Krisuvikurberg Cliffs


    The drone captured some pretty incredible views of the Krisuvikurberg Cliffs showing a deep red layer of mineral within the cliff.


    Stunning!




    Chantil's mule 'Chocolate' - 'White Chocolate'.


  2. #32
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    By the time we reached the town of Hveragerđi the sun was shining so we enjoyed lunch at the small, but fun, city park. The sculptures were fun to interact with. After lunch we enjoyed some ice-cream from the restaurant next to the park.


    For just being some well placed 4x4s it's one of my favorite sculptures.




    Myri (Swamp) by Steinunni Porarinsnottur. To me this sculpture shows how we litter our lives with possession and junk instead of letting them go and floating above them.


    I love how the rusty chain contrasts against the rocks.


    There was also some bird house sculptures. Fun stuff.


    Keriđ crater lake was a bit of a tourist trap but offered a nice hike around the crater rim. I considered launching the drone to capture the view from above but the winds were too high to safely fly it.


    Highway 1 towards Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss.

    Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss falls are just off the 1 and can be seen for miles as they cascade off the end of a large cliff. Iceland is FULL OF waterfalls. There are so many that we just pass by the lesser known ones with nothing more than a quick diversionary glance.


    Seljalandsfoss captured from the Mavic drone.


    A beautiful day for photography.

    We decided to make it to the Skógafoss falls and camp there for the night. As we rolled into the rocky parking area I heard a POP and the clutch lever went slack. I knew almost immediately what had happened; the clutch cable from the clutch lever to the actuator broke. Unfortunately, I didn't pack a spare.

    It was late so we made plans to have Chantil ride in the morning to Reykjavik where the BMW dealer will hopefully have parts or a solution. They open at 10AM and she'll plan on being there once the door opens. Meanwhile, I'll talk to bicyclists and off-roaders with the hopes that someone may have a spare cable that I may be able to make work.

    Let's hope that all works out... Like all well laid-out plans...

  3. #33
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Iceland Day 12 - Thu, 31 Aug 17:


    Map of Day 12 - No progress.

    We woke up early so that I could help Chantil get ready to ride the two hours to Reykjavik Motor Center - the BMW Motorrad dealer in Iceland.

    Insult to injury... After crawling outside the tent I noticed that both of our mules were on their sides knocked over. You've got to be kidding me! What happened?

    This is what I think happened - The rain last night caused the soft dirt under my center stand to shift and then my bike fell over to the right. Unfortunately, right into Chantil mule, knocking hers over to the right as well. My throttle and GPS cable were wrapped around her left foot peg. After unwrapping the cables and getting the bikes lifted we did an evaluation of the damage:
    • Throttle cable housing was mangled including the aluminum channel that threads into the throttle.
    • GPS cable was torn from behind the fairing but suffered no damage
    • Multiple scratches on fairings (add these to a long list of scratches)
    • Bent foot-peg (easily fixed)

    I decided that it would be best to add a throttle cable to the list of things that we should pick up. With the words "ride safe!", a kiss, and a wave, Chantil was on her way.


    At least Apache (my motorcyle) picked a pretty spot to break down.


    #brokeinskogafoss



    I went to the task of searching for a way to 'jurry-rig' a bicycle cable - if I could find the needed parts. I carry just a small assortment of screws, bolts, nuts, and washers. Miraculously I found what would be the perfect parts to lock down the cable free end. I just hoped that the bicycle cable, once found, would be thick enough to get us through the rest of the week and then to the BMW dealer in Denmark.

    There were two groups of bicyclists at camp but since it was raining they seemed to stay inside all morning. I decided to ask them once they got up and started packing...

    At 10 AM, I called Reykjavik Motor Center. I explained my problem but was met with no solution, just resistance. It turns out that Biking Viking and the associated repair center had finished the tourist season and were preparing for a week-long excursion vacation. I was told, "We can not order that until Wednesday (6 days away) because everyone is about to start their holiday vacation. There are no mechanics here and I'm not a mechanic." I tried to explain my predicament but she was not budging - she would not even start the order process until Wednesday. I'm actually surprised they even answered their phone!

    Chantil also received the same discouraging words from BMW. She found a KTM dealer that was very generous with his time and assistance; even calling the BMW dealership and talking in Icelandic (even he was surprised by their lack of customer service). He offered some suggestions and provided a used KTM cable that might work.

    Ultimately, everything we needed to fix the bike was located right here in camp. A little while later I talked to a bicycle couple from Poland. Without hesitation they pulled out a spare cable and offered it to me with a smile. I tried to offer some money as compensation but they graciously did not accept. I just hoped that they would not need it for their own journey. I thanked them and returned to my mule with a new sense of hope.


    This bicyclist from Poland is a better Boy Scout that I am - he was prepared and had a spare cable.

    Once Chantil returned with the clutch cable housing we had the clutch working within a short period of time. The larger problem was the throttle issues that were directly related to the throttle cable housing damage. This took us another hour of straightening out and ensuring the cable alignment was correct.


    Adventure motorcycle touring is fixing your motorcycle in exotic places.


    Close-up of the bolt, nylon nut, and washers used to hold the cable in place. Almost a perfect fit!!


    All fixed!!! Would it last for the rest of the trip?...

    Hindsight: Having a spare cable would have saved A LOT of wasted time and energy. A bike cable, bolt, nut, and washer doesn't hardy take any space. Besides, Murphy's Law says the part won't break if you have a spare

    Add Iceland to the list of countries that I've needed to do some type of repairs to our mules: USA, Mexico, Canada, and now Iceland.

    We enjoyed a dinner at the nearby restaurant and then retired to our cozy sleeping bags and tent. Tomorrow will be a better day...

  4. #34
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Iceland Day 13 - Fri, 1 Sep 17:


    Map of Day 13

    We were excited to be on the road again and making good on our schedule to see as much of Iceland in our short 18 days.


    Lighthouse at Dyrhólaey Nature Preserve where Chantil spotted a puffin.


    A small section of unexpected dirt road on our way to/from Dyrhólaey Nature Preserve.


    Basalt columns at Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach.


    Hálsanefshellir Cave.


    Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach.


    Viewpoint of Reynisfjara and Dyrhólaey.


    As we continued north-east the glaciers got closer.


    Skeiđará Bridge Monument


    Skeiđará Bridge Monument with Svínafellsjökull Glacier in the background.


    Some overly proud U.S. Navy Corpsmen decided to add his signature to the memorial. Hey, I get being proud of your profession but scribbling it onto a memorial in another country?


    Although Highway 1 is the major route around Iceland many of the bridges are just single lane. They would be double lane if all the world only rode motorcycles.


    Enjoying the warm day and green grass at one of the rest stops on the side of the road.




    Svínafellsjökull Glacier.


    Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon icebergs. I got this close-up of the iceberg by flying the drone above the lagoon.


    Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is where icebergs are born and then float out to the ocean.


    Our home for the night at Camping Höfn. A heated cabin and mattress for the night. Spoiled.


    For dinner we walked to Pakkhús Restaurant. The dinner was well prepared but had small portions leaving us room for dessert. I'm glad because this deliciousness is known as a Skyr Volcano and it was simply amazing! A trip advisor reviewer said it best: "The mix of ingredients, the texture, the presentation, and the experience of enjoining a simple but well thought-out dessert doesn't have a price."

    By the way, the clutch cable is working like a champ!

  5. #35
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Iceland Day 14 - Sat, 02 Sep 17:


    Map of Day 14: Another productive day and a decent amount of mileage (355 km) put under our tires.

    We started with a buffet style breakfast as Z Bistro. Lots of choices to include beans? Not sure why beans is a popular breakfast item - I only eat beans when I'm camping.

    Before we left Höfn, I asked the owner of Z Bistro if she knew anyone who would have a bicycle cable. She made a quick phone call and they talked for a bit in Icelandic. She handed me an address that was only a quick two-minute ride from the restaurant. When we got there, the door was already open. I described to a lady what I needed and she returned with a cable - cost about $5 USD. Now we have a spare - just in case.


    Many towns have a digital sign letting you know your speed followed by a red frowny face or a green happy face. Safety award to Chantil for keeping her speed down!


    Our first stop was an old Viking village. Apparently it was created to be a film set but was never used. The owners of the land now charge a small fee for tourists to experience the 'authentic' Viking life.

    We got there early enough that we had the entire village to ourselves (minus the few grazing sheep). It was relaxing to walk around, explore, and snap pictures. It was also a bit disheartening to see all the work that was crafted but never used for the movie. At least we got to appreciate it before it falls into disrepair.


    The village from the short road that must be walked - no vehicles.








    The 'chiefs' home.


    Close-up of the chief's door. Interesting how the bottom is taking on the reddish-brown color of the mud.


    A lot of work was put into the set.


    Same sheep shared the solitude village with us.

    As we were leaving a few folks from a larger group was arriving. It pays to get to tourist sights early in Iceland.

    We continued our adventure along the Ring Road to the north-east...

  6. #36
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    A little bit of rain today but nothing like we experienced in the West Fjords. Perhaps it was because I just bought myself a proper outer rain jacket from the Icewear outlet store.


    Having a GPS with many of the places we wanted to see way-pointed takes a bit of the adventure out of a road trip. It's a balance between not missing anything on likely our only trip to Iceland versus the unexpected. This red chair, bolted to a rock on the side of the road, was the unexpected. This is the kind of weird and wacky art I like seeing on a road trip.


    The lava sand beaches of eastern Iceland.

    We stopped for a little while in the town of Djúpivogur and enjoyed a lunch of fish soup at Langabúđ.


    Another interesting side trip was to the Eggin í Gleđivík (The Eggs of Merry Bay). This outdoor sculpture made by Icelandic artist Sigurđur Guđmundsson consists of 34 eggs that representing each of the species of local birds. We had some fun with the sculptures, as you can see.


    My golden egg!


    Route 939 provided a bit of a shortcut but climbs into the clouds where we experienced thick fog and misty rain.


    After descending into the valley from Route 939 the rains dissipated revealing this beauty.


    We stopped in Egilsstađir for some gas and food supplies (chocolate). This horse was next door to the BONUS shopping area grazing on the "greener grass on the other side of the fence".


    One of the nicest views to take in while relaxing in a well-made chair in the middle of nowhere.

    Námafjall geothermal area is hard to miss. The geothermal steam rising from the ground can be seen for miles. Your eyes are not the only senses that can experience Námafjall - Your nose gets it's full share of the experience as well. Oh the smell!!


    Bubbling mud with it's unique sound. So cool!


    Try to imagine the smell of sulfur permeating the air as you look at these pictures.


    Also imaging buzzing flies the size of mosquitoes swarming around your face. Cool place though, even with the flies and sulfur smell.

    For camping we set up our tent in the grass field at Vogar Travel Service and had dinner next door at Daddi's Pizza.

    Tomorrow looks like a relaxing day to explore around Lake Mývatn...

    (Hindsight: It was supposed to be relaxing...)

  7. #37
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Iceland Day 15 - Sun, 03 Sep 17:


    Map of Day 15


    We started our day by sheep herding. Hundreds of sheep were being herded down the road blocking traffic on both sides. Seems to be a regular thing here.

    We wanted to experience one of the high-end hot pools. The Blue Lagoon is near Reykjavik and is a huge tourist trap that costs 6100 ISK ($57.63 USD) per person. We choose the further, less touristy, and less costly 4300 ISK ($40.63) option at the Mývatn Nature Baths.


    Laser cut sign welcoming us to Jardbödin - Mývatn Nature Baths.


    We arrived at 9AM and had the whole place to ourselves... for 10 minutes.


    A little bit of relaxation made us feel like royalty. Life is good!


    A sunny day with temperatures in the 60s - a hot day in Iceland.


    I tried some mud from the side of the pool just for the photo op. I hope it was only mud


    One of the graphics on a various rental vehicle around Iceland. Pretty much describes our Iceland weather; mostly cloudy and rainy with some sun that peaks out every once in a while.


    Leaving the camping stuff and tail bag at camp meant Apache felt more spirited.


    Enjoying a lava sand section of the trail on our way to the next destination.


    Hverfjall crater via drone. We didn't have time to hike the rim of this volcano but it looks like a nice hike.


    The Dimmuborgir hike is where we were introduced to the story of the 13 yule lads. Google them. I think Askasleikir (Bowl-Licker) is my favorite.


    Pretty fall leaves contrasted against dark volcanic hills.


    A short but enjoyable diversion from riding motorcycles.


    Some of the volcanic caves even had personal items used by the Yuke Lads. Didn't see any lads though.

  8. #38
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    A well timed jump.


    Höfđi hike was well forested and had plenty of trails to explore.




    Höfđi viewpoint was worth the short hike.


    By the time we reached Skútustađagígar craters we were a bit tired of hiking but walked around a little bit. I found this sign funny.


    Gođafoss falls was a tourist meca. There were busses, tourists of all flavors, horses from a movie set, and drones flying around.

    On our way back east towards Lake Mývatn, I felt the chain slip and I had no rear wheel pull when I used the throttle. I knew immediately... The weld we did in Canada to the front sprocket had broke and was freely spinning. We'll need to find another welder.


    Front sprocket connection to main drive busted. I coiled the chain away from the rear wheel so we could tow it to the garage.

    Many of you might be wondering why on earth was my front sprocket welded to the main drive-train? I'll explain... During the cross-country trip from San Diego, California to Portland, Maine we traveled through Canada. While in New Liskeard, Ontario (which is 700 km (435 miles) from the nearest BMW motorcycle repair center) the teeth on my front sprocket and drive-train were shredded. Not sure how this happened; perhaps a poor aftermarket sprocket or perhaps the bolt holding the sprocket loosened causing enough vibration which damaged the teeth on both the sprocket and drive-shaft over the 5,000 miles since it was changed out. Don't really know...

    This occurred on July 23rd and our bikes had to be at the loading dock in Portland, Maine on the 27th to get shipped to Iceland. We still had two days of travel with bad weather most likely adding another day. Our options were limited because getting the bikes towed or trucked to the BMW service center would have taken a day and then getting the parts and doing the required repair would have easily taken over a week. We only had four days. We didn't have the luxury of time on our hands. We decided to weld the sprocket to the drive-shaft and hoped that it would hold for the remaining 2,000 miles of our trip.

    Unfortunately the weld only held for about 1,500 miles...


    The place I broke down had a wide and safe area where we could work on the bikes but it had the worst amount of flying bugs you could imagine. They would fly into your eyes, ears, and sometimes your open mouth. Thousands of them (highlighted in photo with red dots)! I have never been in a place with so many annoying little flies. All part of the adventure, I suppose.


    Being towed 23 km (14.3 miles) to the only mechanic in town.

    The tow to the mechanic actually went surprisingly well. The traffic was light, and short of missing one turn, we delivered my mule to the garage. We showed the owner, Karl Vider, what we needed and he shook his head "No, no I will not guarantee this work!" I guess the desperation on our faces was enough to have him reconsider because he looked at it again and said that we could leave it in the garage and come back tomorrow morning. He was moody and very short with us. I did not want to give him my business because of the way he treated us but we had limited options.

    We rode two-up on Chantil's mule back to camp and ordered another pizza at Daddi's.

    Tomorrow we'll return to the shop at 10AM. I have high hopes that all will go well and then we'll ride the final 120 miles to the town of Seydisfjordur where our ferry/cruise ship will meet us to take us to the Faroe Islands. Wish us luck!...

  9. #39
    Registered User Rinty's Avatar
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    Fabulous trip report, Travis. Thanks for doing this.
    Rinty

  10. #40
    rabid reader dbrick's Avatar
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    Travis,

    It is a wonderful report, and great pictures. Thanks for doing it and sharing with us.
    David Brick
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    2007 R1200R

  11. #41
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Rinty View Post
    Fabulous trip report, Travis. Thanks for doing this.
    Quote Originally Posted by dbrick View Post
    It is a wonderful report, and great pictures. Thanks for doing it and sharing with us.
    No problem. I appreciate the kind comments. After a trip is done and I'm back at work I often have a sad feeling because I couldn't continue "tripping" forever. Writing the reports helps me relive all the memories; even if the memories are breaking down. It's a lot of work editing photos, writing, and proofing, but in the end I think it's therapeutic. If folks like you can enjoy the pictures and reports then all the better. Cheers!

  12. #42
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Iceland Day 16 - Mon, 04 Sep 17:


    Map of Day 16

    We slept in quite late since Karl did not want want us to arrive at his garage before 10 AM. Once we emerged from the tent at 9:15 it was already raining. Another wet day in Iceland for sure.

    Chantil thought it would be a nice idea to stop by the grocery store and pick up some cookies for Karl to put him in a better mode. So off to the store we went, two-up, on Chantil's mule.

    We arrived at the garage and it was open but no-one was around working. It wasn't until after 10 did Karl emerge from the living area above the garage. Chantil did her best to greet Karl with an enthusiastic "Good morning. We brought you some cookies this morning!"...

    It seemed to have worked because he was actually pretty cordial with us. He motioned me to plug in the grinder to the air hose and gave me the job of grinding and cleaning up the old weld from the sprocket. Chantil offered to clean up the garage a bit since she was just waiting around. Karl laughed and told her "No, no. Not necessary."

    Once I was done with cleaning up the sprocket and main drive shaft we looked around for Karl. He was off somewhere else. When he returned he looked at my work and nodded his head in approval. He then started plugging in the welder and getting some water to control the temperature of the sprocket. After about 10 minutes of welding he was done.


    Karl welding but not making any promises. I'll be in a different country when, or if, the weld fails anyhow.


    Karl's masterpiece. The weld is better than the last one but the alignment was a bit off so there in now a slight wobble. Time will tell if the wobble is a problem...

    Chantil and I put the chain and rear wheel back on and then adjusting the chain tension. I took it for a test ride and then I returned to see how much it was going to be. I expected it to be no more than about 20,000 Krona ($189 USD) and was pleasantly surprised when he said 5,000 Krona ($47.29). We ended up giving him 6,500 Krona. I would have given more but he didn't make sure it was completely level before he started welding and now it had a slight wobble. I hoped the wobble would not be too excessive. The only way to know would be to put some miles on it. We had 120 miles of riding to do... In the rain...

    Off we went towards our final Icelandic destination of Seydisfjordur. It was wet but not cold so I elected to just wear my jacket and rain coat without the heated jacket liner. It was comfortable until we started climbing and the temperature dropped to 5°C. I switched to my winter gloves but the chill still made my fingers start to go numb. Once the rain stopped I decided to stop and take off my jackets so I could put the heated liner and gloves on underneath. At our stop, there were two Japanese bicyclists and they looked miserably cold. I shared the weather forecast with them letting them know that the sun was expected to come out in a few hours. They seemed happier as they began peddling their way towards the ugly grey clouds.

    Once I was back on the motorcycle and plugged in with the heated jacket and gloves I was really comfortable. Heated gear - totally worth it. Every penny. Every half penny.

    We stopped about 60 miles from our destination at a place called Guesthouse Skjöldólfsstadir. The ladies who worked there were really nice. We ordered meat soup and a ham and cheese sandwich and enjoyed their free WiFi for a bit before getting suited up for the last portion of our ride.


    Guesthouse Skjöldólfsstadir featured a reindeer theme. Apparently reindeer live on the east side of Iceland although we never saw any.


    The end of the day was turning out to be quite nice.

    Before long we were at our final destination of Iceland, the town of Seydisfjordur. In two days we will board a ferry/cruise ship here and be on our way to the Faroe Islands. We booked a guesthouse room at The Old Apothecary; a beautiful home built in the late 1890s.


    A professional and welcoming sign with plenty of parking for the bikes on the side of the house.


    The Old Apothecary is a beautiful blue home located in the heart of town next to a small river.


    This is what a queen size mattress in Europe means - two twins pushed together. Same with the comforters. This was a nice and reasonable priced place to dry off from the rain and relax for our last few days here in Iceland.

    Tomorrow we'll relax and explore the town a bit...

  13. #43
    Rocky Bow BMW Riders #197 bogthebasher's Avatar
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    This is simply the best image compilation of Icelandic subject matter I have ever seen. Also accompanied by compelling story-telling with motorcycle specific content. It is so difficult to do this well. Thank you for brightening our long cold winter days with this thread.
    Ken Dittrick
    2008 R1200RT (Biarritz Blau)


    Excuses are the rocks upon which our dreams are crushed - Tim Fargo

  14. #44
    Registered User Rinty's Avatar
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    ...compelling story-telling...bogthebasher
    A nice economical style, and the Matt Parkhouse - type "bodge" repair story is icing on the cake.
    Last edited by Rinty; 12-28-2017 at 05:07 PM.
    Rinty

  15. #45
    Registered User travisgill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogthebasher View Post
    This is simply the best image compilation of Icelandic subject matter I have ever seen. Also accompanied by compelling story-telling with motorcycle specific content. It is so difficult to do this well. Thank you for brightening our long cold winter days with this thread.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rinty View Post
    A nice economical style, and the Matt Parkhouse - type "bodge" repair story is icing on the cake.
    Thanks so much for the generous comments. Glad you are enjoying it. More to come shortly...

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