I've had the 6000 mile service on my 2016 RT but noticed in the manual (p. 188 - 189) that the final drive fluid should be changed after one year and then every 12,000 miles. Apparently it is not part of the 6000 service since I hit 6000 mile well before a year had elapsed. I don't see any recommendation for changing the coolant or clutch fluid and can't seem to find any recommendations on line. Any suggestions on what is the appropriate interval?
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Annual Service
- Thread starter 217don
- Start date
The difference is Mineral Oil, it doesn't take on water as brake fluid does. I remember BMW saying the FD in a R1200RT (I think 2005) was lifetime so I see where you are coming from.
Jay
riderr1150gsadv
Well-known member
Replacing the FD and engine oil/filter at 6K miles is cheap insurance to see what's going on in the FD.
I did this with my oil-head GSA and that FD lasted 100K miles before it needed a new bearing. I also add Moly paste to the oil in the FD and believe that this made a big difference in it's lifespan. YMMV
I did this with my oil-head GSA and that FD lasted 100K miles before it needed a new bearing. I also add Moly paste to the oil in the FD and believe that this made a big difference in it's lifespan. YMMV
As others have said clutch is mineral oil, shouldn’t need changing!
Final drive on LC bikes is a no brainer, 10 minute job, if I were to have it done, I would recommend at each oil change or Tire change
For those that service there own bikes the LC 1200’s are about as simple as it gets, air filter and valve check take a lot of patience though, everything else is easy
Final drive on LC bikes is a no brainer, 10 minute job, if I were to have it done, I would recommend at each oil change or Tire change
For those that service there own bikes the LC 1200’s are about as simple as it gets, air filter and valve check take a lot of patience though, everything else is easy
irish
Registered Schmoozer
On the GS at least (don’t know about the GSA) the air filter can be changed in about ten minutes. The only section of faring you need to remove is the one that goes over the fuel cap. Then remove the four bolts that secure the filter cover (just loostening them won’t do it, you need to take them out). Then you can gently bend the side panels out a little and remove the filter cover. Done it this way twice with no issues.
My dealer recommended to me that I change FD oil every 6k for the reasons others have mentioned above. Cheap insurance and easy to do.
Air filter on RT requires most of upper panels be removed, kinda a pain
Suggest after taking panels off and before removing filter, a blast of compressed air to clean out the dust and dirt that accumulated in 12k, don’t go cheap on replacement filter
Checking valves isn’t hard, it’s when you find one out of spec that it gets interesting, on my 1600 it was a absolute pain in the butt
lee
Debbie's Servant
I'm not much of a mechanic and I find the valve check on the LC 1200 easy and does not take much time.
Air filter change is not bad on the RS but I'm guessing the RT may require more time. Not sure if you can spread the RT panel like you can on a GS to get at the filter.
lee
Debbie's Servant
Yes both bikes were within spec and this did not surprise me as I've read the the LC 1200 is similar to K Bikes on going quite awhile before needing a valve adjustment.
