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Thread: Calling all RT owners

  1. #16
    Registered User b25bsaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Calgary, AB. Canada
    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Of course you'll need the two mounting brackets in addition to the fairing plastic. Plus the bottom brackets for the lowers if you ever want to install them. The screws to mount the main bracket to the steering head are special, not Home Depot stuff. The cross bracket rear fairing mount (also top lowers mount) is fixed to frame with a unique clamp ... make sure you get that.

    If I were doing this, I'd check to verify whether part numbers for the mounting brackets are same or different between up through '84 and '85-on models.

    On your 1985 you may not need to modify (change) the front brake lines as you would on earlier models.

    The headlight bucket mounts on the main fairing mount bracket. If the OE mounting ears for the headlight are still present, you'll need to remove them, which means removing/reinstalling the top triple clamp.

    You'll need a different wiring harness for the turn signals and park light than the one you have on your bare bike. Possibly still available, probably pretty easy to fabricate. The rest of the wiring is fine (given handlebar length) as on your 1985 it doesn't lead to the headlight shell.

    If you want to use the factory rubber seals for the fork entry to the fairing, you'll have to disassemble your front suspension--sliders off, fender bracket off--to install them.

    Maybe it's useful to note that the big rubber gasket between windscreen and fairing ($50?) is usually a one-time use thing, i.e. if you separate the windshield from the fairing you'll likely destroy the gasket to the point it's not reusable.

    It would be really useful if not mandatory to find a factory assembled RT to view to better understand the installation, especially brake lines. Do them before you mount the fairing of course.
    Kent makes some excellent points, in that to add a BMW factory fairing is easy on the surface, but the issues are all the small add on’s that will eventually burn a hole in your back pocket. My best advice is just get a factory built RT and from my own experience, you’ll be a Happy Camper!
    Happy Thanks Giving to our American friends this weekend,
    Rick MacPherson
    Success is Not a Destination, But a Journey.
    Accredited Motorcycle Appraiser
    1968 BSA Starfire, 1976 BMW R75/6, 1992 R100RT, 2009 R1200RT

  2. #17
    rabid reader dbrick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Santa Cruz CA
    Quote Originally Posted by jimbc View Post
    I tried a Parabellum Scout fairing for a couple of seasons (with "US" bars). Love the coverage plus it only weighs 5 lbs. But unless I tuck behind the wind screen the "dirty" air noise created by it is unbearable. I started with a 20" screen, cut it shorter many times but there was no change in the "noise". I always ride with ear plugs (I have both moulded and NoNoise plugs).
    How much shorter? I ask because I had to cut my Scout screen down to ~14" before the thrashing noise abated. I was very satisfied with how my R felt and rode, and was happy to keep it. I like the light weight and the wind protection.

    R1200R in DV 2016.jpg
    David Brick
    Santa Cruz CA
    2007 R1200R

  3. #18
    Registered User jimbc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Ontario, Canada
    The screen on my Scout started at 20" as seen.

    If I tucked behind the screen it was nice and quite. When I sat up so that I looked just over the top the "noise" would assault my ears (ear plugs in) and the buffeting on my helmet made my nose itch. So I cropped it 2", went for a ride but no change. Repeated the process until it was down to 12". Now with my shoulders on up in wind the "noise" was still there. Even a ride without a screen it was the same.

    So I concluded the fairing itself the caused the noise, took it off (now in clean air) and noted if I held my left hand, palm toward me, just above the gauges, I could recreate what I'm calling the "dirty air noise".

    It's a great fairing but I've given up on it.

    Now I'm thinking of modifying the Hannigan to work with US bars and a Gustafsson screen.

    The quest continues.

    Attached Images Attached Images
    1985 R80 Original owner, 1982 Yamaha XS400J 2nd owner

  4. #19
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    North Georgia Mountains

    Parabellum Screen

    Gustafson makes a tall ‘racing screen’ with a flip up at the top, like a Rabid Transit. Dry quiet.
    Roger Wiles
    706.897.8266 24/7 Wireless

  5. #20
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Albuquerque, NM
    Quote Originally Posted by WooDmEn View Post
    Gustafson makes a tall ‘racing screen’ with a flip up at the top, like a Rabid Transit. Dry quiet.
    Does Gustafson still insist on NOT drilling the windscreen mounting holes for you?
    Kent Christensen
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  6. #21
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Arvada, Colorado
    Quote Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
    Does Gustafson still insist on NOT drilling the windscreen mounting holes for you?
    When I bought an R90S screen from them a few years ago, circa, 2010, it came drilled and the holes lined up nicely with the fairing holes.


    Brook Reams.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
    Endeavor to Persevere
    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1975 R75/6||1973 R75/5

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