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Thread: 2002 R1150 RT windshield will not move

  1. #1

    2002 R1150 RT windshield will not move

    I have checked the F1 and F3 fuses and they are good. Checking voltage at the connector leading to the windshield operating motor, I get 12.45 volts at the yellow/red wire and the yellow/ black wire with switch moved up and down. I don't get voltage at the blue or purple wires leading to the motor itself. I don't think both relays went bad at the same time. I can not hear or feel a click at the relays. I see from that good wiring diagram, there is a limit switch. Is it internal to motor? Does anyone have an idea, on what to check next?

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by mgsdan View Post
    I have checked the F1 and F3 fuses and they are good. Checking voltage at the connector leading to the windshield operating motor, I get 12.45 volts at the yellow/red wire and the yellow/ black wire with switch moved up and down. I don't get voltage at the blue or purple wires leading to the motor itself. I don't think both relays went bad at the same time. I can not hear or feel a click at the relays. I see from that good wiring diagram, there is a limit switch. Is it internal to motor? Does anyone have an idea, on what to check next?
    I do not have that model but have had two BMW K bikes with electric windshields. On both my K1100LT and K75RT I have had one of the limit switches - upper or lower - stick which shuts off the motor at top or bottom. If one stuck, the windshield would not again move until I unstuck the switch. The switches were on the up-down mechanism, not the motor itself.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  3. #3
    Its a longshot but it worked for me once... tap on the motor while actuating the switch. If it works then cycle the shield up and down repeatedly for a bunch of cycles. Lack of use can make it stick.

  4. #4
    Paul, this is Dan Ray here. Thanks for replying. I just finished taking the cover of the drive mechanism off and sprayed contact cleaner on the small button that extends out, assuming this is the switch. No change. Paul, what did you do to clean the switch?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by mgsdan View Post
    Paul, this is Dan Ray here. Thanks for replying. I just finished taking the cover of the drive mechanism off and sprayed contact cleaner on the small button that extends out, assuming this is the switch. No change. Paul, what did you do to clean the switch?
    I didn't actually clean the switch. I used a jumper wire to power the motor directly which then came on and took the pressure off the switch.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  6. #6
    I unplugged the motor wiring and put a battery to the motor directly, and no movement, so I will look for a used motor assembly.

  7. #7
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgsdan View Post
    I unplugged the motor wiring and put a battery to the motor directly, and no movement, so I will look for a used motor assembly.
    Try this first.
    The end bell on the motor has 4 twist tabs holding it on.
    Turn them back and carefully disassemble.
    I suspect the commutator is dirty or the brushes are stuck in their bores.
    Could also be a connection issue with the supply leads.
    This motor gets intermittent use, it would have minimal wear. Unless it was stalled for an extended period of time and the fuse did not blow I'm betting it's fixable.
    If you fail and can't find one close to you, send me a PM, I might have one in stock.


    Edit: BB has one if you need it https://www.beemerboneyard.com/46632306511.html
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

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