Results 1 to 15 of 22

Thread: '04 R1150RT ~ New Clutch ~ No Power to Rear Wheel

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1

    '04 R1150RT ~ New Clutch ~ No Power to Rear Wheel

    We replaced the clutch on my buddy's 2004 R1150RT, buttoned it all back up, went to go for a ride and ... nothing.

    Before we rip it all apart again, can anyone suggest what the issue might be?

  2. #2
    Registered User bewareboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Cincinnati, OH
    Quote Originally Posted by tdw View Post
    We replaced the clutch on my buddy's 2004 R1150RT, buttoned it all back up, went to go for a ride and ... nothing.

    Before we rip it all apart again, can anyone suggest what the issue might be?

    Not that I am an expert, but I did replace my 2004 R1150RT clutch a couple of years ago. It all went well for me. I'm sure others with much more knowledge and experience will chime in shortly.

    I assume the bike is starting, idling fine? I assume you are not hearing any crazy or unusual noises? Lastly, I assume nothing had to be forced back together and there were no left-over parts.

    Thinking through your situation and limited description, I can only think that you are not getting proper clamp on the clutch plates to grab the clutch disk. What could lead to that?

    I would think something related to the diaphragm spring or the clutch rod not allowing sufficient clamp on the friction disk. Did you replace or reuse both pressure plates? On my bike both plates were somewhat "dished". I could lay a straight edge across the machined surface and had very noticeable wear / deformation as you looked from the OD to the ID of both plates. So not wanting to have to go back in, I replaced both pressure plates to be safe. Not sure if you reused them with a new clutch disk if you might not have good contact across the full face of the disk? I would presume if it didn't have sufficient contact surface, then you might get some rear wheel movement with no weight on rear wheel, i.e. on the center stand. Otherwise if with weight on the bike, then you might smell some clutch burning since the disk and pressure plates would be slipping.

    Does if feel like the clutch is working? Could you have bent the clutch rod and its now bound up and not releasing its pressure on the diaphragm spring?

    Will be interested to hear the outcome. Hope I'm in the ballpark and not talking out my a$$.

    Jim "BewareBoy" Snyder
    Cincinnati, OH
    2004 R1150RT

  3. #3
    Hi Jim,

    Thanks for your response!

    Not wanting to rip it all apart again if there was something simple that we missed (like bleeding the slave cylinder?), we spent a couple of hours going over everything we did and researching the situation.

    Yes the bike starts & idles fine. No, we do not hear any strange noises; it sounds fine. Nothing was forced back together. It all seemed to go well. Not without challenges (had to replace the needle bearings for the final drive, had to remove the drive shaft to review the connections and ensure we had the phasing correct); but, not totally unexpected for first-timers. No left-over parts.

    We did replace the diaphragm spring with the clutch pack. We did not replace the reinforcement ring. Didn't even consider it at the time. Maybe that is the issue.

    After all our discussion, review and research, I came to the same conclusion that you have. I think we did something that is preventing the diaphragm spring from applying sufficient pressure to engage the clutch plate with the pressure plate & clutch cover. Or maybe the reinforcement ring is messed up and preventing the diaphragm spring from applying sufficient pressure.

    AFAIK, we are not getting any rear wheel movement with the bike in first sitting on the center stand but will have to confirm that. We definitely do not smell any burning clutch.


  4. #4
    The slave cylinder and pushrod operate to disconnect the transmission from the engine. Any failure there would have the clutch engaged - not disengaged. So a failure to provide power to the wheel says that the clutch isn't gripping or the shaft is somehow not engaged.

    Off hand I can't envision how this could be the case.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell

  5. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Planet Earth
    Remove the starter, and then while looking at the clutch, engage the and disengage the clutch lever. You should be able to see the clutch engage or disengage.

    With the starter still removed, put the bike in 6th gear and have someone turn the rear wheel. You should see be able to see if it is engaged and turning.

  6. #6
    Registered User kioolt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Could the pushrod be installed backwards? If I remember correctly the pushrod is stepped at the slave cylinder end and round at the clutch end. Putting it in backwards would depress the clutch spring and release it.
    2004 R1150RT 186,800 miles , 1991 K100LT 128,700 miles, 1982 R100RT 106,900 miles
    Total 422,400 BMW miles
    The cheapest thing on a BMW is the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-01-2012, 03:56 PM
  2. Replies: 34
    Last Post: 03-18-2012, 12:09 AM
  3. R1150RT Rear Wheel Bolts
    By Mr. Frank in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 12-09-2004, 10:54 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts