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Thread: '04 R1150RT ~ New Clutch ~ No Power to Rear Wheel

  1. #1

    '04 R1150RT ~ New Clutch ~ No Power to Rear Wheel

    We replaced the clutch on my buddy's 2004 R1150RT, buttoned it all back up, went to go for a ride and ... nothing.

    Before we rip it all apart again, can anyone suggest what the issue might be?

  2. #2
    Registered User bewareboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdw View Post
    We replaced the clutch on my buddy's 2004 R1150RT, buttoned it all back up, went to go for a ride and ... nothing.

    Before we rip it all apart again, can anyone suggest what the issue might be?
    tdw,

    Not that I am an expert, but I did replace my 2004 R1150RT clutch a couple of years ago. It all went well for me. I'm sure others with much more knowledge and experience will chime in shortly.

    I assume the bike is starting, idling fine? I assume you are not hearing any crazy or unusual noises? Lastly, I assume nothing had to be forced back together and there were no left-over parts.

    Thinking through your situation and limited description, I can only think that you are not getting proper clamp on the clutch plates to grab the clutch disk. What could lead to that?

    I would think something related to the diaphragm spring or the clutch rod not allowing sufficient clamp on the friction disk. Did you replace or reuse both pressure plates? On my bike both plates were somewhat "dished". I could lay a straight edge across the machined surface and had very noticeable wear / deformation as you looked from the OD to the ID of both plates. So not wanting to have to go back in, I replaced both pressure plates to be safe. Not sure if you reused them with a new clutch disk if you might not have good contact across the full face of the disk? I would presume if it didn't have sufficient contact surface, then you might get some rear wheel movement with no weight on rear wheel, i.e. on the center stand. Otherwise if with weight on the bike, then you might smell some clutch burning since the disk and pressure plates would be slipping.

    Does if feel like the clutch is working? Could you have bent the clutch rod and its now bound up and not releasing its pressure on the diaphragm spring?

    Will be interested to hear the outcome. Hope I'm in the ballpark and not talking out my a$$.

    Thanks,
    Jim "BewareBoy" Snyder
    Cincinnati, OH
    2004 R1150RT

  3. #3
    Hi Jim,

    Thanks for your response!

    Not wanting to rip it all apart again if there was something simple that we missed (like bleeding the slave cylinder?), we spent a couple of hours going over everything we did and researching the situation.

    Yes the bike starts & idles fine. No, we do not hear any strange noises; it sounds fine. Nothing was forced back together. It all seemed to go well. Not without challenges (had to replace the needle bearings for the final drive, had to remove the drive shaft to review the connections and ensure we had the phasing correct); but, not totally unexpected for first-timers. No left-over parts.

    We did replace the diaphragm spring with the clutch pack. We did not replace the reinforcement ring. Didn't even consider it at the time. Maybe that is the issue.

    After all our discussion, review and research, I came to the same conclusion that you have. I think we did something that is preventing the diaphragm spring from applying sufficient pressure to engage the clutch plate with the pressure plate & clutch cover. Or maybe the reinforcement ring is messed up and preventing the diaphragm spring from applying sufficient pressure.

    AFAIK, we are not getting any rear wheel movement with the bike in first sitting on the center stand but will have to confirm that. We definitely do not smell any burning clutch.

    tdw

  4. #4
    The slave cylinder and pushrod operate to disconnect the transmission from the engine. Any failure there would have the clutch engaged - not disengaged. So a failure to provide power to the wheel says that the clutch isn't gripping or the shaft is somehow not engaged.

    Off hand I can't envision how this could be the case.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  5. #5
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    Remove the starter, and then while looking at the clutch, engage the and disengage the clutch lever. You should be able to see the clutch engage or disengage.

    With the starter still removed, put the bike in 6th gear and have someone turn the rear wheel. You should see be able to see if it is engaged and turning.

  6. #6
    Registered User kioolt's Avatar
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    Could the pushrod be installed backwards? If I remember correctly the pushrod is stepped at the slave cylinder end and round at the clutch end. Putting it in backwards would depress the clutch spring and release it.
    2004 R1150RT 183,000 miles , 1991 K100LT 128,700 miles, 1982 R100RT 106,900 miles
    Total 418,600 BMW miles
    AMA,BMWRA,BMWMOA
    The cheapest thing on a BMW is the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by kioolt View Post
    Could the pushrod be installed backwards? If I remember correctly the pushrod is stepped at the slave cylinder end and round at the clutch end. Putting it in backwards would depress the clutch spring and release it.
    Excellent possibility.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  8. #8
    Thanks Paul ... we were thinking the same thing - . I'm hoping it's something simple and glad there's no video evidence of our ineptitude. Hope to delete this thread to destroy all evidence once it's resolved ... LOL

    Will try to have a look at the clutch with the starter removed and a look at the gear box through the fill hole once we get back to it. Quick question, is there a trick to removing the starter once the engine is running so that we can see how the clutch is engaging / disengaging? ... LOL

    The pushrod ... after all our research & review of our work, we were thinking we may have messed something up with that causing it to continually apply pressure to the diaphragm spring thereby leaving the clutch in a permanently disengaged state. Never thought we could have installed it backwards tho' as we didn't intentionally remove it from the gearbox. My friend had it out briefly to look at it but I wasn't paying attention so I don't know if he inadvertently flipped it end-for-end before reinserting it. Sure hope it's something as simple as that.

  9. #9
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    If you pull the slave you should see the end of the pushrod that has a shoulder on it.


    Correct orientation
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    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  10. #10
    Registered User kioolt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdw View Post
    Thanks Paul ... we were thinking the same thing - . I'm hoping it's something simple and glad there's no video evidence of our ineptitude. Hope to delete this thread to destroy all evidence once it's resolved ... LOL

    Will try to have a look at the clutch with the starter removed and a look at the gear box through the fill hole once we get back to it. Quick question, is there a trick to removing the starter once the engine is running so that we can see how the clutch is engaging / disengaging? ... LOL

    The pushrod ... after all our research & review of our work, we were thinking we may have messed something up with that causing it to continually apply pressure to the diaphragm spring thereby leaving the clutch in a permanently disengaged state. Never thought we could have installed it backwards tho' as we didn't intentionally remove it from the gearbox. My friend had it out briefly to look at it but I wasn't paying attention so I don't know if he inadvertently flipped it end-for-end before reinserting it. Sure hope it's something as simple as that.
    I don't see any reason why you would need the engine to be running to see the movement of the clutch plate.
    2004 R1150RT 183,000 miles , 1991 K100LT 128,700 miles, 1982 R100RT 106,900 miles
    Total 418,600 BMW miles
    AMA,BMWRA,BMWMOA
    The cheapest thing on a BMW is the nut that connects the handlebars to the seat.

  11. #11
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kioolt View Post
    I don't see any reason why you would need the engine to be running to see the movement of the clutch plate.
    You don't, with the starter removed one can easily access the edge of the clutch disc.
    Using a pick you can determine if it is released or under pressure.

    Alternatively, bike on centerstand, in gear, turn the rear wheel.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by kioolt View Post
    I don't see any reason why you would need the engine to be running to see the movement of the clutch plate.
    That comment was a joke ... more a commentary on my mechanical ignorance but a joke

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    You don't, with the starter removed one can easily access the edge of the clutch disc.
    Using a pick you can determine if it is released or under pressure.

    Alternatively, bike on centerstand, in gear, turn the rear wheel.
    Where are you looking to take that picture? I don't recognize that view of the engine.

    As for your second question ... yeah, that's exactly why we feel we've messed something with the re-assembly; we can spin the rear wheel with the bike in gear on the center stand.

  14. #14
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdw View Post
    Where are you looking to take that picture? I don't recognize that view of the engine.

    As for your second question ... yeah, that's exactly why we feel we've messed something with the re-assembly; we can spin the rear wheel with the bike in gear on the center stand.
    You are looking at the pressure plates and clutch disc from the side, starter removed.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  15. #15
    Registered User bewareboy's Avatar
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    Not that I have tried, but could you even install the transmission and hydraulic slave cylinder/actuator with the clutch rod installed backwards without severe binding or breaking something?
    Jim "BewareBoy" Snyder
    Cincinnati, OH
    2004 R1150RT

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