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Thread: I'm baaaack!

  1. #1

    I'm baaaack!

    Hi, Guys! Back again after a long absence! Still have two Beemers: a 1991 R100GS airhead and a 1994 R1100RSL.

    The R1100 just developed a gremlin wherein with ignition on, plenty of battery voltage, the neutral switch has apparently malfunctioned; no neutral light, no crank, even with clutch pulled in, sidestand retracted. Shut her down yesterday with the little rotating kill switch below green starter button and extended side stand. Went to fire her up again - no joy. No crank, no neutral light, no nothing. Everything else works...

    With 23 years of flawless operation, this is the very first glitch. Hmmm?

  2. #2
    Welcome back sir.
    Not a mechanic by a long shot but it sounds like your side stand ignition interrupt switch has gone bad. Thereís a scene in long way down where this happened to Charlie Boremanís bike. Rock had kicked up and damaged the wire leading to the side stand.

    Good luck in getting her fixed, again, welcome back. Always encouraging to the club to see members returning.

    Most sincerely,
    Reece
    R. Reece Mullins Ebony R1200RT (Gretchen)
    MOA # 143779
    MOA Charter Club #5 and #364
    SECMOA (BMW MOA secretary)

  3. #3
    Put bike on centerstand.
    Put side stand up.
    Turn on the key.
    Turn on the kill switch.

    You should hear the fuel pump turn on as soon as you do the last of the three switches.
    If not - flick the kill switch back and forth. Fuel pump?
    If not - sidestand up and down. Fuel pump?

    If the pump turns on and then quits in a few seconds you have ruled out those three switches.

    Now - as for the starter:

    You need either the clutch pulled with a working clutch switch or the transmission gear selection switch in neutral. One or the other or both. Absent at least one of these the starter will not be energized.

    Assuming you did get the fuel pump to turn on, it would seem to me that you have a bad clutch switch and a bad or dirty transmission switch.

    The transmission gear selection switches are notorious for having a little gear oil seep into the switch which may make the contacts erratic. I would try shifting into and out of neutral a bunch of times. This often wipes the switch contacts a bit and you get a neutral signal.

    If the clutch switch is bad the easy way to replace it is to cut the wire and use a deep 10mm socket to remove it. Installing a new one only needs to be finger tight - the wire will prevent it unscrewing on its own.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #4
    Paul Graves
    R. Reece Mullins Ebony R1200RT (Gretchen)
    MOA # 143779
    MOA Charter Club #5 and #364
    SECMOA (BMW MOA secretary)

  5. #5

    R1100 - No start

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeym View Post
    Hi, Guys! Back again after a long absence! Still have two Beemers: a 1991 R100GS airhead and a 1994 R1100RSL.

    The R1100 just developed a gremlin wherein with ignition on, plenty of battery voltage, the neutral switch has apparently malfunctioned; no neutral light, no crank, even with clutch pulled in, sidestand retracted. Shut her down yesterday with the little rotating kill switch below green starter button and extended side stand. Went to fire her up again - no joy. No crank, no neutral light, no nothing. Everything else works...

    With 23 years of flawless operation, this is the very first glitch. Hmmm?
    Thanks for the suggestions, guys! Yup, did ALL of that, with sidestand, center stand, all the switches, etc. Did get fuel pump and ABS computer cycling. But, no neutral light, no crank, no nuthin'. May have to tow her to the local dealer,,,

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeym View Post
    Thanks for the suggestions, guys! Yup, did ALL of that, with sidestand, center stand, all the switches, etc. Did get fuel pump and ABS computer cycling. But, no neutral light, no crank, no nuthin'. May have to tow her to the local dealer,,,
    Since you got the fuel pump to run you have verified that the ignition switch, kill switch, and sidestand switch work OK.

    So you seem to have a failure of both the clutch switch and the transmission gear switch.

    The simple way to make it start is to replace the clutch switch.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  7. #7

    No neutral light, no start, regardless of position...

    Not sure which to try cleaning or bypassing first: clutch swtch or sidestand switch....

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeym View Post
    Not sure which to try cleaning or bypassing first: clutch swtch or sidestand switch....
    The clutch swith is a screw-in plunger type switch. I doubt it is cleanable. The neutral switch is at the back of the transmission and a bit hard to get to.

    You bypass either at your own peril. Starting in gear is never fun.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  9. #9

    It's alive! It's alive!(

    Quote Originally Posted by rangerreece View Post
    Welcome back sir.
    Not a mechanic by a long shot but it sounds like your side stand ignition interrupt switch has gone bad. There’s a scene in long way down where this happened to Charlie Boreman’s bike. Rock had kicked up and damaged the wire leading to the side stand.

    Good luck in getting her fixed, again, welcome back. Always encouraging to the club to see members returning.

    Most sincerely,
    Reece
    It's alive! Guys! Thanks so much for your suggestions! I got her back! Cycled the sidestand several times noting a distinct click midway through its arc. Then i sprayed the area around the base of the clutch switch with copious amounts of electronics cleaner. Then ran the trans through several gears and back to zero. Suddenly, i had the green neutral light and she cranked! She's back! Yeah!
    Last edited by mikeym; 10-17-2017 at 04:09 AM.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeym View Post
    It's aluve! Guys! Thanks so much for your suggestions! I got her back! Cycled the sidestand several times noting a distinct click midway through its arc. Then i sprayed the area around the base of the clutch switch. Then rN the trans through several gears and back to zero. Suddenly, i had the green neutral light and she cranked! She's back! Yeah!
    Awesome Awesome Awesome!!!!! This is what the forums are all about.
    R. Reece Mullins Ebony R1200RT (Gretchen)
    MOA # 143779
    MOA Charter Club #5 and #364
    SECMOA (BMW MOA secretary)

  11. #11
    Now test the clutch switch. Put it in gear, pull the clutch, and see if it will start.

    If not, replace that switch. They tend to be reliable for a long time. The transmission switch not so much. They get oily and wonky.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  12. #12

    So true!

    Quote Originally Posted by rangerreece View Post
    Awesome Awesome Awesome!!!!! This is what the forums are all about.
    Absolutely! Couldn't have done it without ya, guys!

    Forums such as this, are how I've managed to keep a '97 740i with 210,000 miles alive and very healthy!

  13. #13
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