LED low beam or high beam bulb - with capacitors

R1200RT owners,

Was thinking of swapping up my halogens for whiter LED's. I figured, if I do the low beams, I better think about swapping out the high beam bulb as well.

Has anyone tried an LED low beam or high beam bulb replacement with these "warning cancelling capacitor" cables yet?

This from Amazon.com.

http://www.headlightexperts.com/cat...h7-single-beam-led-technology-kit/category/2/

Thanks,

Jim S.

Be very careful. A good LED replacement bulb is surely coming, and may even be out there, but most don't pattern the light correctly because the reflector is designed for the halogen bulb. Many don't shield the area close up to the bike and emit high intensity light close to the front wheel. This gives the impression of "wow" brightness, but all it serves to do is diminish your night vision ability without providing useful illumination.

I would reserve LED's for auxiliary lights built with reflector / projector assemblies that were designed for them.

^ I agree, the reflectors aren't made for HID either! Kind of shocking that BMW decided to stick with older technology with regard to the headlight. The tail light BTW, isn much better either as it fades out in the sun like crazy too.
One would think that BMW would have had at least the option of and LED or HID headlight on these bikes...

In general I have to agree with the LED vs halogen replacement cautions - but - if you follow the link - the photo of the bulb capsule reveals one with the LED located where one would expect the filament in a halogen bulb to be. If it offers 360 degree output - it might work quite well in a halogen reflector.

My only caution on this is - the 6000K color temperature. It's "white" - and really with a slight blue tinge. That isn't the best for actual visibility, it's done more to make them look like super HID bulbs (which in factory bulbs are 4200K) - ie - it's marketing. It would be interesting if they offered ones with a lower color temperature, especially if you intend to use them at night.

Just sayin'.. and the "capacitor" cable? Wonder exactly what they're doing there. Most warning-cancelling cables have a resistor across the power going to the light, to simulate the current drawn by a halogen bulb. That's for current monitoring bulb monitoring - which your RT has. Some of the newer bulb monitoring circuits in cars send a tiny pulse of electricity to the bulb and watch for it to return. They can do this without the bulb being on (the pulse is short enough the filament never heats up..) - a capacitor in that system might fool it by passing the pulse through - but I don't know enough to say if that's fact or just theory.

Anyway - if you go ahead with this (and I can understand the desire since RT bulbs seem to go like popcorn) - please take some before and after pics of the light output pattern. Against a garage door is good. If you can set your phone/camera to use the same exposure that's also good (since most pics like that are really inaccurate due to the auto-exposure ability of the camera.)

I found a company that has the answer

I was also having problems finding some that would play nice with the canbus and ran across this company:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/

They have canbus capable, super bright LEDs for about all of your available plugs. I installed them in the headlights (no fan or ballast, just a heat sink), parking lights (bright little plug in units), tail/stop (get the red units or else you will have a pink taillight), turn signal (Amber 1156). The only problem was the right front turn on my RT, a regular 1156 would work, but the led was a no go. I think it may be the plug, as I have had problems w my BMW 328i that was similar. I'll try a new one when I ride near Jacksonville-no dealers here in Savannah. Their figment guide is pretty good, but just look for the ones that say "canbus capable". I rode today and everyone backed off, as these suckers get their attention.



Also, just a quick tip for those wanting to change their parking light bulbs on a RT, remove the mirrors, and remove the two screws holding the wing Tupperware right next to the headlight assembly. There is an access opening that you can get at the bulb easily.

I was going to post some video of the lights in action, but it will take some messing with

exfed750 said:

I was also having problems finding some that would play nice with the canbus and ran across this company:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/

They have canbus capable, super bright LEDs for about all of your available plugs. I installed them in the headlights (no fan or ballast, just a heat sink), parking lights (bright little plug in units), tail/stop (get the red units or else you will have a pink taillight), turn signal (Amber 1156). The only problem was the right front turn on my RT, a regular 1156 would work, but the led was a no go. I think it may be the plug, as I have had problems w my BMW 328i that was similar. I'll try a new one when I ride near Jacksonville-no dealers here in Savannah. Their figment guide is pretty good, but just look for the ones that say "canbus capable". I rode today and everyone backed off, as these suckers get their attention.

Click to expand...

I like superbrightleds, but for now I stick to HID's. Did you check how high your light is projecting? You may want to check that, as is not a good idea
if it is bothersome for the incoming traffic or even for the ones driving ahead of you. Should ask a friend to drive ahead of you and against you and share
his honest opinion.

I marked a garage wall where the old silver star halogens hit and checked it after installing the leds. The aim didn’t change. They are just brighter, with the color being closer to white. I was amazed at the color difference when I had the center high beam still in. It was almost yellow. I don’t ride much after dark due to the number of deer in the area, but with the time change I may venture out to see the change.

exfed750 said:

I marked a garage wall where the old silver star halogens hit and checked it after installing the leds. The aim didn’t change. They are just brighter, with the color being closer to white. I was amazed at the color difference when I had the center high beam still in. It was almost yellow. I don’t ride much after dark due to the number of deer in the area, but with the time change I may venture out to see the change.

Click to expand...

That was my experience when I replaced my low beams with 4300Kº HID. The beam patterns are the same, but I have to consciously look beyond the white light up close to see the relatively yellow halogen lighting down the road. Looking at LED for the single high beam, but have not found the one I want without buying a pair, and I don't ride all that much at night anyway.

I got the can-bus friendly from super bright for my tail and brake light. love how bright they are compared to the stock (I got the red ones). But the light out symbol on dash came on. me sad lol. the parking light one's work great. I really want the led 1156's reds to work. I guess I'll be sending those back................JD

jddiesel said:

I got the can-bus friendly from super bright for my tail and brake light. love how bright they are compared to the stock (I got the red ones). But the light out symbol on dash came on. me sad lol. the parking light one's work great. I really want the led 1156's reds to work. I guess I'll be sending those back................JD

Click to expand...

You need to install one resistor. ONE only was enough for me.
Be warned, they get VERY hot!!
https://www.amazon.ca/Resistors-Signal-License-Warning-Cancellor/dp/B004EDF8HY