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Thread: 1973 R75/5 Back-to-road Project

  1. #46

    Fuelfilter

    Are you running fuel filters on your bikes? I think I need one (or two) at this point, because the bike has sat for so long and I am not sure what's going on deep down inside the tank. I will empty it completely at some point, but not before my next week-end trip to the Harvest Classic (200 mls total).

    I already put 100 mls on the bike with no issues, except that I have a hard time getting all the 14! fuel line connection points leak free. I am using a tiny lawn mower filter since there is no room for anything bigger. I could remove the crossover connection that would help. Does it serve any other purpose than supplying gas to both carbs even if one petcock is clogged up? What is everyone else doing? As always, thanks!
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  2. #47
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Are you running fuel filters? .......... I could remove the crossover connection that would help. Does it serve any other purpose than supplying gas to both carbs even if one petcock is clogged up? What is everyone else doing? As always, thanks!
    There’s no way that each side of the gas tank will draw down exactly at the same time. Your bike will stop running as soon as one side runs out, no matter how much gas is in the other side.

    Or, if one petcock isn’t allowing enough gas for full throttle you could run lean or stop running on one side. With the crossover you’re more likely to get enough gas.
    Last edited by m_stock10506; 10-21-2017 at 03:45 PM.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  3. #48
    Registered User lmo1131's Avatar
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    I am using a tiny lawn mower filter since there is no room for anything bigger.
    Leave the cross over where it is.

    With regard to "tiny lawn mower filter", I've been running these for years; one on each side (1/4" fuel line size fit OEM cloth covered fuel line)), mounted between the petcock and the cross over fitting.



    [img]slash 5 at Lagarza.jpg
    "It is what you discover, after you know it all, that counts." _ John Wooden
    Lew Morris
    1973 R75/5 - original owner
    1963 Dnepr

  4. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by lmo1131 View Post
    Leave the cross over where it is.

    With regard to "tiny lawn mower filter", I've been running these for years; one on each side (1/4" fuel line size fit OEM cloth covered fuel line)), mounted between the petcock and the cross over fitting.


    Those look like a better solution than mine.
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  5. #50

    Crashbars

    Is it possible to put on the crashbars without taking the header off? It appears to me that I can't wiggle them into position with the headers on. I don't have the tool to remove the header ring nut and I don't want to mess up that ring.
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  6. #51
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Is it possible to put on the crashbars without taking the header off?
    I'm assuming you're talking about the bars shown in your first post. Methinks that with the cutout at the top, there might be a way of holding things just right and maneuvering it on/off. Hard to say. There were other varieties that are individual parts and bolt on from the sides...my /7 has a set like that.

    Some don't like the case guards (sounds better than crash bars!!) and suggest that in the event of a real crash, they will do more harm than any kind of protection they offer. Duane Ausherman has his "statement" about it here:

    http://w6rec.com/crash-bars-are-very-dangerous/

    It's a personal choice. Seems to me that if you're going down, there are a lot of things to have to worry about. But certainly they protect from the rash in parking lot fall-overs.

    I'm sure you've read about taking those exhaust nuts off. If they haven't been off in a while, they could very well gall and ruin threads. It needs the special tool, along with time and penetrating fluid. If you try and turn them off and they start but then grab or tighten up, better stop and reassess. Likely the best thing at that point would be to cut them off and install new ones.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  7. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    I'm assuming you're talking about the bars shown in your first post. ......

    I'm sure you've read about taking those exhaust nuts off. If they haven't been off in a while, they could very well gall and ruin threads. It needs the special tool, along with time and penetrating fluid. If you try and turn them off and they start but then grab or tighten up, better stop and reassess. Likely the best thing at that point would be to cut them off and install new ones.
    Yes, those are the ones I am talking about.

    I actually took one of the nuts off when I replaced the dented header, came off relatively easily, however I used pliers with a rag underneath and I scratched them a bit. I want to avoid doing it again that way. Definitely want to buy the tool at some point.

    Thanks!
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  8. #53

    Bottom of fork plastic cover

    I cannot pull up Part #14 on the micro fiche. Does anyone know if this is still available? It fell apart when I took it out to drain the fork oil.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  9. #54
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Don't see why not, but you'd have to check with a dealer. Or you could check with Mikey at Airhead Salvage down in Martindale...he might have some used parts. Other used part places out there.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  10. #55
    Rally Rat 1074's Avatar
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    You found the part but didn't pursue it to the next diagram frame. You'll find the part number thee. That part is still available.
    Boxerbruce

  11. #56
    Quote Originally Posted by 1074 View Post
    You found the part but didn't pursue it to the next diagram frame. You'll find the part number thee. That part is still available.
    Not sure what I am doing wrong. If I go here, only parts 1-5 are listed. Same at A&S Motorcycles.

    http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...5&rnd=07242017
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  12. #57
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Not sure what I am doing wrong. If I go here, only parts 1-5 are listed. Same at A&S Motorcycles.

    http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...5&rnd=07242017
    BoxerBruce pointed you right at it. You are looking at diagram _0308. Now go to the next diagram, _0309 and you will see parts 8 thru 14.

    14 31 42 2 000 381 CAP $3.47
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  13. #58
    Registered User ebeeby's Avatar
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    Bob's BMW has the whole fork rebuild kit: seals, rubber bumper doofers that turn to mush inside the forks, new progressive springs, all the crush washers (small and large), new 13 ring rubber gators, and the bottom rubber dust caps.
    1973 R75/5

  14. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    BoxerBruce pointed you right at it. You are looking at diagram _0308. Now go to the next diagram, _0309 and you will see parts 8 thru 14.

    14 31 42 2 000 381 CAP $3.47
    Ok, got it. When I looked yesterday that was after two beers, now after a double espresso I found it

    And while I am at it, forks are pretty mushy, changing fork oil didn't do much, what would you recommend as a next step? Add some spacers on top of the springs? Thanks!
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  15. #60
    Registered User ebeeby's Avatar
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    OEM springs were not much when new. Do a fork rebuild with new (progressive) springs and be done with them for 5 years.
    1973 R75/5

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