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Thread: 1973 R75/5 Back-to-road Project

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
    I recommend Time-serts over Helicoils.

    And Kurt is right about getting it perfectly square during installation. I just put two in the final drive of my R90/6, it's not something I would suggest you do yourself unless you have a machining background and have the proper equipment available to use.

    Attachment 64588
    Yes I agree. It seems that I can get it done locally from a BMW specialist for a couple hundred bucks. Considering that I would have to buy/rent the guide and the fact that I have to get the oil channel in there, it's a bit too much for me....I want to do as much myself as I can but it stops here for me.
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Yes I agree. It seems that I can get it done locally from a BMW specialist for a couple hundred bucks. Considering that I would have to buy/rent the guide and the fact that I have to get the oil channel in there, it's a bit too much for me....I want to do as much myself as I can but it stops here for me.
    Excellent idea, being rational about your abilities will save you money in the long run. Btw, the guide they sell isn't really accurate enough for this particular job.

    There is also nothing wrong with picking and choosing what jobs you don't want to do and leaving the things that you enjoy for yourself. I'm pretty sure I could learn to lace a rim, but I'm also pretty sure I'd be happier writing a check for that....

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
    Excellent idea, being rational about your abilities will save you money in the long run. Btw, the guide they sell isn't really accurate enough for this particular job.

    There is also nothing wrong with picking and choosing what jobs you don't want to do and leaving the things that you enjoy for yourself. I'm pretty sure I could learn to lace a rim, but I'm also pretty sure I'd be happier writing a check for that....
    Spot on! Took me 3 hours to change the tire on my front wheel, I just wanted to do it, seems so easy when you watch YouTube videos.... I then happily paid 30 bucks to a dealer (and will do for the rest of my life) for installation of the rear tire. Never again!


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    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Spot on! Took me 3 hours to change the tire on my front wheel, I just wanted to do it, seems so easy when you watch YouTube videos...
    Heh, heh, it gets easier...

    Sounds like you're on the right track. I'm looking forward to following along on your project.

    Here's a little inspiration:

    http://www.bikeexif.com/bmw-r75-lwb

    bmw-r75-lwb.jpg

    bmw-r75-lwb-1.jpg

  5. #35
    Wow, that's a beauty!

    I try to keep mine as original as possible, we shall see....I might take the bike to Harvest Classic in Luckembach on the weekend of 10/20. Only 200 mls round trip, I am hopeful I can make it. Now back to work, check points, airfilter, change fluids....
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  6. #36

    Confused.....

    Did all my oil changes today. The Clymer says to fill up the final drive with 250cc, however it was flowing over at about 200cc. Can anyone confirm the correct amount that goes in there? Thanks!
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  7. #37
    Rally Rat 1074's Avatar
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    Aftermarket manuals

    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Did all my oil changes today. The Clymer says to fill up the final drive with 250cc, however it was flowing over at about 200cc. Can anyone confirm the correct amount that goes in there? Thanks!
    Just one of the inaccuracies you'll find in aftermarket manuals. The correct measurement is 100cc for the short wheelbase models and 150cc for the long. You can skimp a bit on these measurements because the oil gets thrashed around while you're riding. In all cases replace the crush washers whenever you change oils.
    Also, you may hear about measuring the quantity of oil in the drive shaft housing using any which manner from a paperclip to the tip of a screwdriver. I've never seen any of these or other methods work with any accuracy at all! You might as well just drain the oil into a measuring cup/container.
    There is the possibility of having the drive shaft oil migrate into the rear drive. There has been a lot written about this event. If you are going to change all the oils then it makes sense to remove the rear drive fill plug to check on the oil level before doing any draining. The level should be even with the bottom threads of the plug hole. If oil flows out when the plug is removed then it is obvious that you have said migration.
    Boxerbruce

  8. #38
    Whoa! Final drive or driveshaft housing?

    I always filled the final drive to the bottom thread on the filler plug - and 150cc in the shaft housing.
    Clarify? Please?
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  9. #39
    Just to clarify, I was talking about final drive, not drive shaft. When I add 200cc into the final drive, I am at the bottom thread of the filler plug, however the manual calls for 250cc.

    I agree with thye quantities for the drive shaft, I read 100cc for SWB and 150cc for LWB.

    Unfortunately I didn't measure the oil when I drained it, but there was "a lot" in the final drive and "very little" in the drive shaft so that sounds like migration to me.

    But back to my original question, I only get 200cc into the final drive, by then it starts flowing over, can that be correct?
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Just to clarify, I was talking about final drive, not drive shaft. When I add 200cc into the final drive, I am at the bottom thread of the filler plug, however the manual calls for 250cc.

    I agree with thye quantities for the drive shaft, I read 100cc for SWB and 150cc for LWB.

    Unfortunately I didn't measure the oil when I drained it, but there was "a lot" in the final drive and "very little" in the drive shaft so that sounds like migration to me.

    But back to my original question, I only get 200cc into the final drive, by then it starts flowing over, can that be correct?
    Fill to the lowest thread on the fill plug. That is full.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  11. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    Fill to the lowest thread on the fill plug. That is full.
    Ok, that's what I did, thanks! Ready for Harvest Classic in Fredericksburg
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  12. #42
    Registered User ebeeby's Avatar
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    One note on the final drive fill, it will help to add about half the oil - and really, it is grease with some pretty good viscosity - and turn the wheel to allow the heavy grease to settle into the final drive. It is possible to get an airpocket which prevents the final drive from taking a full fill. Turn the wheel or give it a little time. Then fill to the lowest thread of the fill plug.
    1973 R75/5

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by ebeeby View Post
    One note on the final drive fill, it will help to add about half the oil - and really, it is grease with some pretty good viscosity - and turn the wheel to allow the heavy grease to settle into the final drive. It is possible to get an airpocket which prevents the final drive from taking a full fill. Turn the wheel or give it a little time. Then fill to the lowest thread of the fill plug.
    Ok, will ride around the block tomorrow then unscrew the fill plug and see if I can get more in there. Thanks.
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  14. #44
    Rally Rat 1074's Avatar
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    Sorry. I didn't intend to confuse anybody. Of course, Paul is more accurate than I.
    Boxerbruce

  15. #45
    Successfully completed 50 mls test run, I hope I am ready for Harvest Classic next weekend. Is anyone from the area going?


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    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

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