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Thread: 1973 R75/5 Back-to-road Project

  1. #106
    Registered User ebeeby's Avatar
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    Check the bolts holding the pick-up tube/strainer and make sure they are not loose. This is a known problem. If loose, a little blue loctite wouldn't hurt....
    1973 R75/5

  2. #107
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    I'm not sure if you'll find this useful, but I just went through the process of pulling the flywheel on my R90/6 because it was installed incorrectly (it was oriented one bolt-hole off by the P.O.). Anyway, the same steps apply to getting to the rear seal and I find it helpful to have a list of the steps as a guide...

    1. Remove fuel tank (disconnect fuel lines, unscrew plastic nuts at rear of tank)
    2. Remove L&R side panels
    3. Disconnect the negative lead of the battery
    4. Remove front cover
    5. Remove spark plugs (easier to crank the engine over)
    6. Use allen key in generator to rotate engine CW while carefully inserting a chopstick through the spark plug hole to find TDC of the compression stroke
    7. Verify that the TDC is coincident with "OT" on the flywheel as seen through the timing access hole (If it is not then the flywheel has been installed wrong)
    8. Remove left and right side airfilter cover (you need to loosen carb boots). After the covers are off, reinstall carbs to the cylinder head and cover the carburetor openings
    9. Remove choke from left-side air filter cover
    10. Disconnect positive lead on battery
    11. Remove battery and battery tray
    12. Remove hollow, ground-bolt on transmission and negative battery lead
    13. Drain drive-shaft oil
    14. Loosen drive-shaft boot clamp on transmission and slide drive-shaft boot off transmission-side toward the swing arm
    15. Remove four bolts (10mm, 12-point wrench, use rear brake to keep shaft from rotating, replace with new, shorter bolts, no lock washers)
    16. Remove rear brake pedal (discconect brake rod from rear drive, remove brake assembly from frame)
    17. Remove shock absorber bolts (bottom mount only)
    18. Remove rear wheel (loosen nut on right side, loosen pinch-bolt on left side, tap out axle and remove wheel. May have to deflate tire if oversized tire has been installed)
    19. Disconntect brake switch leads
    20. Remove swing-arm (use modified 27mm socket to remove axle nuts, remove axle pivot screws 8mm allen wrench)
    21. Remove clutch arm from transmission (remove cable, remove circlip - use thick feeler gage to bias clip, then use screwdriver to pry it off)
    22. Disconnect leads from neutral switch on bottom of transmission
    23. Remove transmission bolts (3 bolts, one nut)
    24. Remove clutch (6 bolts, remove three bolts completely, then install long bolts with nuts, remove second set of three bolts, then back nuts off to relieve pressure on the diaphram spring)
    25. Block the crank before going any further!
    26. Remove flywheel (5 bolts, use tool to keep flywheel from rotating.)
    Last edited by sprouty115; 11-09-2017 at 08:22 PM.

  3. #108
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    This is also helpful sometimes...(R90/6)

    M6 nut on the end of the automatic advance unit on models through 1978: 4 ft-lbs (48 in-lbs)
    Flywheel Bolts (5): 11mm, 75-80 ft -bs (11mm bolts can be reused if in good condition, 10mm must be replaced every time)
    Clutch bolts (6): 15 ft-lbs (Blue Loctite)
    Transmission to engine (4): 15 ft-lbs
    Clutch arm axle - replace with new-style axle (headed-axel and new type of retaining clip)
    Driveshaft U-joint bolts (4): 12pt, 26-29ft-lbs MAX, buy shorter version of bolts with NO lock-washers. Both bolt & flange threads must be clean and dry + Blue Loctite on the bolt threads.
    Swingarm pivot pins (8mm Allen wrench): 7.5 ft-lbs (15 ft-lbs first, then loosen and retighten to 7.5 ft-lbs, center swingarm to within .020")
    Swingarm nuts (27mm, special socket): 72-75 ft-lbs
    Rear Axle (22mm, nut): 25 ft-lbs
    Rear axle (22mm): 25 ft-lbs
    Clutch arm axle - replace with new-style axle (headed-axel and new type of retaining clip)

    This was the first time I'd done any major work on the bike so if any of you with more experience want to make corrections or add something, please feel free.
    Last edited by sprouty115; 11-09-2017 at 08:22 PM.

  4. #109
    Quote Originally Posted by sprouty115 View Post
    This was the first time I'd done any major work on the bike so if any of you with more experience want to make corrections or add something, please feel free.
    Very helpful, thanks! I will do this work in the next months and will add to this, if necessary.
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  5. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    Very helpful, thanks! I will do this work in the next months and will add to this, if necessary.
    One more thought - there are lots of ways to block the crank, but I found this pretty easy and intuitive:

    crankstrap.jpg

    http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/veh...dflywheel.html

  6. #111
    Rally Rat 1074's Avatar
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    Clutch arm

    Just so you late model folks know: The clutch pivot pin on a 4 speed is held in place with a cotter pin. You have to use just the right size, metric of course, to fill the hole that it goes through and it corresponds with a notch in the pin. The neutral switch wire is on the back of the 4 speed transmission on the cover, not on the bottom.
    Boxerbruce

  7. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1074 View Post
    Just so you late model folks know: The clutch pivot pin on a 4 speed is held in place with a cotter pin. You have to use just the right size, metric of course, to fill the hole that it goes through and it corresponds with a notch in the pin. The neutral switch wire is on the back of the 4 speed transmission on the cover, not on the bottom.
    Thanks and good point - I'll edit my post above to reflect a R90/6...

  8. #113
    Thanks guys, keep the good tips coming !
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  9. #114

    Cycle Works

    I have placed an order with Cycle Works on Nov. 2 (9 days ago), I received an order confirmation but nothing since then. I know they are a small shop and it may take a bit longer to ship, so I sent another email 2 days ago but no reply.
    I am not worried, just need my stuff to keep wrenching. Has anyone else had a similar experience with them?
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  10. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by anotherbmw View Post
    I have placed an order with Cycle Works on Nov. 2 (9 days ago), I received an order confirmation but nothing since then. I know they are a small shop and it may take a bit longer to ship, so I sent another email 2 days ago but no reply.
    I am not worried, just need my stuff to keep wrenching. Has anyone else had a similar experience with them?
    My personal experience was from one order. I placed the order, didn't hear anything for a few days, so I sent an email. I got a prompt answer and had my tools a few days later.

    Having said that, there are at least two threads on another site asking the same question. The responses seem to follow a similar theme - one-man show, poor communication and follow-up, but the tools are good and the orders eventually get filled.

  11. #116

    Oil pan and strainer

    I removed the oil pan and strainer to check for any debris, but everything looks sparkling clean!

    However when I removed the oilfilter (which I had changed 3 weeks ago) I realized that the rubber seal on the outside had disintegrated. Could it be that I have not lubed it with engine oil before installing the inner cap (I don't remember if I did)? Or could there be any other reasons?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  12. #117
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Looks like too much compression on the outside o-ring. It's important to make sure that one of the inner o-rings didn't remain at the base of the pipe. Sometimes they get hung up inside.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  13. #118
    Registered User ebeeby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Looks like too much compression on the outside o-ring. It's important to make sure that one of the inner o-rings didn't remain at the base of the pipe. Sometimes they get hung up inside.
    +1
    1973 R75/5

  14. #119
    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    Looks like too much compression on the outside o-ring. It's important to make sure that one of the inner o-rings didn't remain at the base of the pipe. Sometimes they get hung up inside.
    I just checked, but nothing there. My only explanation now is that it was sticky when I put the inner cap on and got destroyed they way. But I don't know.....
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

  15. #120

    Do oil filters have a shelf life?

    My bike came with two extra oil filters, date stamp says 10/2010 (if I read it correctly). Can I still use them? They look brand new to me, were stored inside a garage by the previous owner and even the box they came in looks like new. Definitely no damage from water or humidity.
    Olaf - Austin, TX MOA #200565
    Current bikes: 2012 R1200R Classic, 1973 R75/5 www.R75slash5.com, 1969 CT 70 (108 cc engine)

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