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Thread: R1200Rt 2013

  1. #1
    trumpetman
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    R1200Rt 2013

    I am tired of paying outrageous $ for oil. I know to use BMW specs for my bike. I was hoping someone could just give me a quick suggestion for Castrol full synthetic numbers.

  2. #2
    Registered User dbaliko's Avatar
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    Not really the answer to the question you asked, but I use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic oil. It’s actually an oil made for Diesel engines but does meet all the oil requirements and ratings for the hex head and Cam Head. I have been using this oil since I owned my 2007, and continued with my 2012 with no ill effects. I change the oil every 5000 Miles. Best of all it’s relatively inexpensive, and available at Wal-Mart.

    Doug
    Doug
    '12 R1200RT - The Green Machine
    '07 R1200RT - (sold)

  3. #3
    FUKENGRUVEN SURVIVOR akbeemer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NATHANMONK View Post
    I am tired of paying outrageous $ for oil. I know to use BMW specs for my bike. I was hoping someone could just give me a quick suggestion for Castrol full synthetic numbers.
    Read your owner's manual, the specifications are provided. Buy an oil that meets the specs; there are several available at auto parts stores and box stores like Walmart. Amazon carries oil as well. Look for motorcycle specific oils.
    Kevin Huddy
    Tm Pterodactyl MT Outpost

  4. #4
    i should be out riding! wyman.winn's Avatar
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    Cool

    my 2013 RT (90,000 mils) likes Mobil 1, 15w50 with Highflow HF164 oil filters every 6000 miles...about $50 from Amazon.com....takes me about 15 min to change the oil if that is the only task...
    ~wyman~

    2015 BMW S1000R - Duke - Black Storm Metallic
    2013 BMW R1200RT - Sassy - Fluid Grey Metallic

  5. #5
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Your 2013 does not require motorcycle specific motor oil.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  6. #6
    P Monk
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    I had the same question as Nathan

    His brother here. Looking at the oil specs in the owners manual in the new to me 2011 R1200RT, there is a wide range of weights. Down here in the deep south, the 15w40 looks like a good oil, but only place I see that weight is in a diesel oil, which according to the extensive report from a year or so ago, was tested and has sufficient zinc/phosphorus quantities. I think a 10 weight oil is a little too light for our area. Even a 10w50 oil may not really be a great idea since the viscosity modifiers have a penchant for shearing after a while, then you are running a very light motor oil. 15w50 might be the better option. My drowned GS loved that stuff.
    P. Monk
    74 R90/6 (the Black Hole) Harvey couldn't kill it. . 09 R1200 GS, drowned in Harvey replaced by 2011 R1200RT. Wife, 1953 model survived aplastic anemia and a bone marrow transplant.

  7. #7
    Ken ken e's Avatar
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    In my 2012 R1200RT DOHC motor I use full synthetic 20W50 in the hot half and 10W40 in the cold half of the year. Located in the northern tip of Virginia. Starts down in the low 20's F with just a few extra revolutions of the starter motor. 56,000 miles now and all seems good.
    Last edited by ken e; 10-22-2017 at 12:42 PM. Reason: sorry, my error. Is a air/oil cooled 2012.
    Ken E.
    2012 R1200RT
    '09 RT, '93 K75, '69 R60US and others long gone....

  8. #8
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken e View Post
    In my 2014 R1200RT DOHC motor I use full synthetic 20W50 in the hot half and 10W40 in the cold half of the year. Located in the northern tip of Virginia. Starts down in the low 20's F with just a few extra revolutions of the starter motor. 56,000 miles now and all seems good.
    Of course this is the hexheads/camheads forum and you're posting regarding a wethead.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  9. #9
    Registered User lkchris's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpmonk View Post
    His brother here. Looking at the oil specs in the owners manual in the new to me 2011 R1200RT, there is a wide range of weights. Down here in the deep south, the 15w40 looks like a good oil, but only place I see that weight is in a diesel oil, which according to the extensive report from a year or so ago, was tested and has sufficient zinc/phosphorus quantities. I think a 10 weight oil is a little too light for our area. Even a 10w50 oil may not really be a great idea since the viscosity modifiers have a penchant for shearing after a while, then you are running a very light motor oil. 15w50 might be the better option. My drowned GS loved that stuff.
    How "light" an oil is has zero/zip/nada (NOTHING) to do with the first number. 0w-40, 10W-40, and 15W-40 are ALL 40 weight oils when hot.

    The first number ONLY describes oil performance when starting a cold engine. This has ZERO effect on oil performance during hot running.

    The first number is essentially irrelevant when describing a synthetic motor oil, as it's likely they all have the same cold pour point in any event.
    Kent Christensen
    21482
    '12 R1200RT, '02 R1100S, '84 R80G/S

  10. #10
    P Monk
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    have to disagree just a little.

    the first number is the weight of the base oil before the viscosity modifiers are blended. 10w oil is lower viscosity than 20w oil. viscosity modifiers cause the oil to become more viscous at higher temperatures. The viscosity modifiers do tend to break down with use causing the oil to become "lighter" with age. Same is true of the base oil. The big advantage to using a lighter weight motor oil is in cold starts. It flows much better at cold temps until it warms up and the VI's change its characteristics to a higher viscosity oil. But your statement is correct when the oil is in good shape at operating temperature.
    P. Monk
    74 R90/6 (the Black Hole) Harvey couldn't kill it. . 09 R1200 GS, drowned in Harvey replaced by 2011 R1200RT. Wife, 1953 model survived aplastic anemia and a bone marrow transplant.

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