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Thread: What year K1300GT to look for ???

  1. #1
    Sufferin Boothead
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    What year K1300GT to look for ???

    Does it matter what year K1300GT I should look for? As a previous owner of several oilheads and instead of going to a wethead, I'm thinking about looking for a low mileage K13GT but didn't know if later models were better. Thanks for your opinions.

  2. #2
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    The K13GT was only made for 2009 and 2010 and little difference that I am aware of in the two years. I'd be partial to the 2010 myself, but I think you'll find that more critical than the year is the maintenance the bike received and whether or not all the SI bulletins were done on the machine. Of particular importance is making sure the cam chain jump guard has been installed. That check does not require any disassembly, just removal of the Torx plug on the lower RH side of the engine--the edge of the jump guard is visible through that hole.

    The K13GT is an awesome motorcycle, a great blend of power, handling, and comfort. They are very reasonably priced in the used market and many low-mileage examples around. Good luck with your search and enjoy the bike!
    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  3. #3

    Talking 2009 or 2010 in USA with all of the updates complete

    One of the best touring sporty bikes on the market to date. Whether it is on the autobann, Tail of the Dragon, The Stelvio pass or just riding it is the best of ALL WORLDS. I too will be looking for a low mileage K1300gt 2009 to 2011 here in Canada ( they were available in 2011 here) as mine will turn over 100 000 miles next year. regular maintenance items = front and rear shocks rebuilt,clutch by 50 to 60 000 miles, rear shaft bearings by 70 000 miles,

  4. #4
    Are we there yet? tonyfr's Avatar
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    If you are coming from a boxer and you don't do all of your own service, be prepared to pay for hefty repair bills. 1300 GT's are not cheap to maintain, especially when it comes to valve checks.
    2009 K1300 GT
    1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
    1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
    2005 R1200 RT - gone

  5. #5
    Back in the Saddle mcmxcivrs's Avatar
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    There were more differences across the years in the K1200GT. Most of the early issue had been sorted by 2008 (which is why I chose an 08 GT), and the K1300GT benefited from that evolution and thus not too much trouble with them. I will concur that these bikes are a lot more work to do maintenance on, but by no means is it outside the realm of a decently skilled owner top do pretty much any service work. You will most definitely want a good manual though to do so. The first couple of times getting the plastic off is a bit daunting- lots of screws of various sizes - but after a few times it gets easier and more familiar. Very enjoyable bike to ride, bar backs, peg lowering and a new windscreen made all the difference for me to finally love mine.
    Ed Miller, Calgary, AB
    2008 K1200GT, 2019 F850GSA

  6. #6
    Mehrten
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    Maintenance Considerations...

    I have owned a 2008 K1200GT from new and do my own maintenance. The bike now has 122,000 miles. It is very similar to the K1300GT in almost all respects.

    Getting all the body work off is petty basic, lots of screws is all.

    Pulling the radiator you'll do well to buy the clamping tool to remove the radiator hose clamps.

    Because...you have to pull the radiator to get to the spark plugs and the valves.

    The coils are a bitch to get off the plugs even with the proper coil remover tool. The original white coils chipped easy, real easy.

    Checking the valves is standard stuff...once you get the radiator and the valve cover off.

    So far, even with the cam chain on our bike jumping two teeth, the valves have not needed any adjustment. An adjustment would require the cams to be pulled.

    DO make sure the cam chain anti jump piece is installed. It's a recall and free if it hasn't been.

    Filling the radiator can be done without an Air-Lift though the Air-Lift tool with a air compressor makes it a bit easier.

    Bleeding the brakes is mostly standard. I have swapped out all the bleeders with Speed Bleeders. Makes it an easier one man job. (See the comment below about the GS-911.)

    Draining the oil tank with the straw is a bit slow, and getting the straw off the oil tank can be a real PITA.

    The newer rear drives on the K13s do have a fill and a drain. My '08 didn't have a drain, I had to drop the rear drive every time I did a rear drive oil change.

    The clutch on our bike got to the point I couldn't get her into neutral when running and stopped. Once that began, the clutch got a bit sticky. It took a new basket and clutch pack to fix it. That was the only big expensive I had because neither the OEM nor the extended warranty covered the clutch.

    The older rear drives let dirt in. Wanda and I tried to ride through an Haboob and packed the rear drive with sand. The replacement drive was $2,300 and was covered by our extended warranty.

    There is a recall on the fuel pump housing on Beemers past 2005. Need to be sure that was done.

    A GS-911 is a very valuable tool that will aid in properly bleeding the brakes, resetting the computer, checking which brake pads are worn and then reset them, and a bunch of other stuff. In my opinion it is a must have tool if you have a modern computer driven bike.

    And...order the DVD OEM Repair Manual. Lots of torque settings and stuff to pay attention to.

    On the other hand...if you don't do you own maintenance...never mind

    Our 2008 K1200GT is our bike of choice for long distance travel. We just got back from Texas for the MOA Getaway in Kerrville, 1,800 miles round trip. The GT averaged 40 mpg two up with six days of clothes.

    If BMW did another K12/K13GT, it would probably be our next Beemer.

    Deryle & Wanda Mehrten
    Sierra Vista, AZ USA

  7. #7
    Registered User selyab's Avatar
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    My '07 was fun to ride but thanks for reminding me why I got rid of her.
    Current : '76 R90/6, '11 R12GSA, '15 RTW, '16 S1R.
    Gone: '07 K1200GT, '03 R1150RT, '85 K100RT.

  8. #8
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by selyab View Post
    My '07 was fun to ride but thanks for reminding me why I got rid of her.
    I'm going to guess you're not standing in line for a K1600.

  9. #9
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mehrten View Post
    Draining the oil tank with the straw is a bit slow, and getting the straw off the oil tank can be a real PITA.
    A oil evacuator sucks the oil out of the tank speeding up the job.

    Mityvac7300.jpg

    Mityvac.jpg

    Mityvac label.jpg
    Lee
    2016 R1200RS
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  10. #10
    Kein Nasebohrer RBEmerson's Avatar
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    Nah... Go serious or go home... 756338.jpg

    [/wink and grin]

    In some degree of seriousness: I use on of these pumps for diesel engine oil changes on our boat. Warm up the engine to get the oil mildly hot, stuff the hose into the sump (permanent drain plug replacement with a plug with a hose - from the engine manufacturer), and watch the oil leave in a hurry.
    Some people are wise. Some people are otherwise.

  11. #11
    Registered User bobsguns's Avatar
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    2009 K1300GT owner here. I bought mine used, with 21K miles & now have 51K miles. I LOVE this bike & think it's THE perfect blend of comfort, touring capability & power. BMW made a HUGE mistake when they dropped this bike, IMO.

    I have been doing my own oil changes, which is not hard to do if you're moderately mechanically inclined. And have patience. LOL!

    I test drove a 2013 1600 a bit back & was NOT impressed. The 1300 has it ALL over the 1600 in every day riding, IMO. The only real complaint I have is there's no normal way to install some hwy pegs so I can stretch my legs out on long rides, something similar to the 1200RT, IOW.

    My .o2

  12. #12
    Registered User
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    Just bought my 2009 K1300...2018 K1600GTL (the whale) is for sale now

    No way to compare the K1600 to the K1300, just not the same type of bike. And the RT vs the K1300 is also a mismatch. 160HP & less weight!

    I went with the K1300 as it had all the kinks worked out of the K1200. Looking forward to many happy miles.


    Good luck!

  13. #13
    Registered User jamo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTRider View Post
    ...
    The K13GT is an awesome motorcycle, a great blend of power, handling, and comfort. ...
    DG

    May I please chime in? I'm keeping an eye out for one, too. In real world terms - and not just on paper or for added gizmos and farkles - is the 1600 really any better or substantially different of a motorcycle than the 1300?
    Turn on, tune in and ride off

  14. #14
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jamo View Post
    May I please chime in? I'm keeping an eye out for one, too. In real world terms - and not just on paper or for added gizmos and farkles - is the 1600 really any better or substantially different of a motorcycle than the 1300?
    The K16 has the same HP, a bit more torque, and in GT flavor packs about 60-70lb more weight than the K13GT. Maintenance costs can be a smidge higher on the K16 (you’re buying 2 more spark plugs, etc) and some tasks, like oil changes, can be more involved. The K16 offers more electronics, depending upon the year, like integrated luggage locks, the “wonder wheel” for controlling the electronics, and hide-away integration of the Nav system. So is it “better”? Depends upon what you value in a bike, I guess.

    If someone is looking for a K1300GT, go to https://classifieds.ksl.com/ then “recreational vehicles” then “road bikes used” as there are a couple of them listed by local MC dealers. I’d bet they would look really hard at a lowball offer because frankly, used K13s don’t sell well in the GS-favoring SLC market.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  15. #15

    5th year K13GT owner

    I bought mine from a buddy and put the 6,000th mile on it, buttering me up by telling me he would only trust me with this bike because it was going to kill him. It took me a while to get the ergonomics sorted out for some reason. Hint: buy the big AirHawk seat pad. I’ve put mine up for sale a couple of times, but K bikes don’t command any attention in the marketplace. Lucky me. Every time I take a spirited ride or a buddy challenges me a bit, I remember why I love this bike. It’s big, supremely competent, and will mop up nearly everything else on the road, with the exception of a few sport bikes. More than one of my buddies has noted that I ride the K13 harder than its stablemate, a S1000XR.

    The late Kevin Ash was at the cool, rainy, unveiling of the K1300R, K1300S and K1300GT. He noted that the GT keys were the first to disappear each day. His explanation was that what was lost by choosing the larger, lower powered GT was less than what was gained in rider comfort. http://www.ashonbikes.com/bmwk1300gt

    Ash also did an in-depth analysis on why the K1600GTL didn’t have the punch of the K1300GT, though the big six had greater torque values. http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/bm...que-comparison

    In conclusion, pick up a K13GT of any year, because the model worked all the kinks out of the previous K12, added even more usable torque from 30 mph in 6th gear on up and improved on its reliability. When the timing chain rattle starts, buy a mechanical adjuster or rebuild the hydraulic adjuster, embrace the funky oil change routine and ride the damn thing. Maybe even spank a K16 or two. It is still a enthusiast’s grand touring machine and you’ll still be admiring its lines and competence years from now.

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