I just purchased a heated jacket liner made by Warm & Safe for First Gear. I wondering which is the best way to connect to the power. The easiest way it would seem would be to use the SAE pigtail or one of the ports, but the Warm & Safe video advises against that and recommends using the furnished wiring harness to connect directly to the battery terminals. I was hoping to avoid the hassle of removing the battery. Also the pigtail is on the right of the bike (2015 RT) and the pouch pocket for the heat troller receiver is on the left (naturally). I was eyeballing the length of the pigtail to see if it would reach to the other side, but I think it looks a little short.
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Heated jacket liner
- Thread starter jolev55
- Start date
The bike's built-in accessory sockets are current-limited, and won't work with a jacket liner: the liner draws enough current that the bike will shut off the electricity to the socket. Thus, you have to wire a pigtail directly to the battery. That pigtail can feed the liner directly (with an in-line fuse, and Heat-Troller or similar) or can provide current to an aftermarket power distribution block; the latter might be useful if you're going to connect other things to the bike's electrical system.
Battery removal is detailed in the rider's manual. I had to do it on an Edelweiss rental bike in Norway in July. It was a bit of a PITA for me, but the tour leader who helped had done it before and was pretty facile.
Battery removal is detailed in the rider's manual. I had to do it on an Edelweiss rental bike in Norway in July. It was a bit of a PITA for me, but the tour leader who helped had done it before and was pretty facile.
On my 15RT I added a bmw/din plug just below the factory plug on right fairing
It's wired direct to battery with a fuse. Other than carefully removing upper right plastic it was pretty simple
No reason it wouldn't work on left side, just order the plug that has a 30inch pigtail and you should be good to go
FYI I use this plug for heated vest, cyclegear pump and my battery charger, no issues with canbus
It's wired direct to battery with a fuse. Other than carefully removing upper right plastic it was pretty simple
No reason it wouldn't work on left side, just order the plug that has a 30inch pigtail and you should be good to go
FYI I use this plug for heated vest, cyclegear pump and my battery charger, no issues with canbus
jswisc
New member
FYI, on RT's that I rent I routinely use the accessory BMW plug with my heated jacket (cyclegear brand) and it works fine. On my 14' RT I use the sae from the battery. GS's you can't use the BMW plug, it trips the canbus overload. My wife uses the rear plug on my RT for her jacket and it works fine.
gloucesterman
New member
Another reason
Howdy,
The closer you get to the power source (battery) the better the performance of whatever you are plugging in. On my 2014 I did not pull the battery but used the "jump" point just to the right of the battery to power a three positon fuse block under the passenger seat. The connector, now hanging below my seat, besides providing power for the heated liner also becomes a convenient connection point for my Battery Tender and when I'm on the road for my 12v air compressor.
Later,
Norm
Howdy,
The closer you get to the power source (battery) the better the performance of whatever you are plugging in. On my 2014 I did not pull the battery but used the "jump" point just to the right of the battery to power a three positon fuse block under the passenger seat. The connector, now hanging below my seat, besides providing power for the heated liner also becomes a convenient connection point for my Battery Tender and when I'm on the road for my 12v air compressor.
Later,
Norm
I have a Gerbing's LT jacket and G3 gloves which pull about 9+amps so the dash socket couldn't be used , I installed a standard BMW socket on the left side of the bike in the triangular plastic section which puts it just behind your left knee which is a perfect plugin location. The socket is wired directly to the battery and has a 10amp inline fuse. Easy installation.
sailorlite
New member
And consider "coax" connectors rather than the SAE type. I think the Warm & Safe pigtail, for example, comes with the coax type - and recommends it for their heated gear.
So I'm looking at the right side of an RT and the positive connector is to the right of the battery with the red connector attached?
gloucesterman
New member
you are correct.
alancoles
Dress for fall & avoid it
Coax is typically the most common and "recommended" connector for heated gear, what appears to be the reasoning behind that is just so-so.
Nothing wrong with coax except that it is not field repairable like DIN (BMW uses DIN). Like DIN it is easier to connect and disconnect than an SAE connector and that is important because most heated gear failures are at the coax connector wire just a it leaves the connector. So while they are better than SAE for ease of use, and equal to DIN, their most common failure point (like the SAE) is not field repairable while most DIN plugs are (small flat-blade screwdriver). The other benefit to coax over DIN is that there is slightly less electrical resistance through the connection, but it is very small and the only test I'm aware of was able to show the difference, but testing of the heated gear did not identify any difference in time to heat or ultimate heat levels, so it is mostly a non-issue.
The coax is smaller for storing and comfort while wearing, but more difficult to connect than DIN with heavy gloves on, so give the nod to coax in that area.
I have only SAE and DIN connectors on my bikes, with both SAE to Coax and DIN to Coax adaptors and a Powerlet DIN USB plug. That is because all my other accessories are either DIN, SAE, or USB (battery charger, phone charges, etc).
I do carry a small SAE to cigarette lighter outlet adaptor for the possibility of needing to get something from an automotive shop in a pinch. This may well be overkill, but they are simply things I've accumulated over the years and I've found that having just one DIN and one SAE plug on my bike gives me all the flexibility I need with the use of a few small adapters.
Thanks for the responses. It looks like I have several options. So the consensus is that the stock electrical outlets are basically worthless.
I have a 14RT the sockets operates my jacket and gloves but a GS won't, not even enough amps to operate an air compressor. I'd have the pig tail just for that reason.
Jay
Thanks for the responses. It looks like I have several options. So the consensus is that the stock electrical outlets are basically worthless.
Only useful within their proper amp range. I think I attached a photo of my power socket on my 14RT which I use for my heated gear as well as the battery tender , easy to install and you can purchase the socket at your BMW dealer or on line, by the way there is enough room at this location for two outlets in case you ride two up in cold weather.
Attachments
Hex EZCan used for jacket heater
I rigged my Hex Ezcan <http://hexezcan.com>as the controller for my electric garments, plus the other usual items, lights, horn. Nice, neat installation controlled by the existing Wunderwheel (for heat intensity), & turn signal selector (for "on" "off.") Cheaper, cleaner, and lots neater than a typical heat controller, mounted on the handlebars, or wherever. The EZCan has a couple of leads that connect directly to the battery, and all the accessories (such as your jacket) then feed from the EZCan, which can handle around 25 amps, total, nominally.
Bike: 2017 R1200GS
I used EZCan Configuration 3, e.g.,
Red Circuit: Air horn operated by normal horn button. (Factory horn, left in place, works simultaneously, too.) (breaker tripped when set at 10 amps, but seems to work OK when set to 15 amps. I used a $16 horn from Ebay. Annoyingly loud--which is what I wanted, primarily for animals. [see http://katu.com/news/local/bear-stru...marion-county] Due to the different way that I had to use the "orange" circuit (below) the EZCan cannot flash my fog lights when the horn is sounded. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...4923103?epid=12004205651&hash=item46665a94df: g:jrgAAOSwi8VZU07i&vxp=mtr>
Orange Circuit: Dedicated heated garment (jacket+gloves) circuit, breaker set to 10 amps. (2.4 ohm measured resistance with heated jacket and heated gloves in parallel--worst case-- or 14v/2.4ohms= ~6 amps.) Also have very small incandescent pilot light in this circuit to give me a visual indication of power (heat) level. [I initially tried an LED pilot, but it flickered annoyingly at low power due to PWM so I switched to an incandescent, which is more even-tempered.] Since I opted to use a nominal 10 amp "lighting circuit" for the heated jacket--and instead used the "white" accessory circuit for my fog lights, it means that I don't have access to the trick flashing of the fog lights normally associated with a typical EZCan installation. My red incandescent pilot light is from an airplane ($40) and has a twistable shutter to dim the lamp, if need be. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/presstotestindicators/ms25041.php> The bulb should last forever at the very low heat settings that I anticipate. My jacket plugin is identical to rhaines post, previously, however I am thinking that perhaps I should have mounted it in front of legs, to make the bike easier to mount. The rhaines mounting position is easiest, though, with much shorter wiring.
Yellow (brake) Circuit: Brake light (s), set to 1 amp for auxilliary LED license plate frame lights ($30.) <http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GYB-Products-Stopper-Red-LED-Light-Black-Clear-STOPPER-CLEAR/202039158694?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620075055%26meid%3Daed97cdc89d141f7afc22d5c5212522d%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D272404147371&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850>
White (aux) Circuit: Two 10w LED Cree "fog" lights ($12 each) in parallel (1.3 amps measured; breaker set to 2 amps.) These are for enhanced recognition. Might go to slightly bigger lights now that I see that I have a couple amps extra to play with . . . <http://www.ebay.com/itm/2inch-10W-C...3619374?hash=item283dafbdae:g:1QkAAOSwQjNW9f0 Y&vxp=mtr> My jacket plugin is identical to rhaines post, previously.
The EZCan concept is a little inflexible if you want to do something that they hadn't intended, but I am sure they will improve on the device, add more features, etc., over time. On my former F800GT I had wired in a FuzeBlock (brand) relay for my previous F800GT bike, but the EZCan is much more compact and elegant.
I used Positaps (2) and Posi-splices (a lot of them) and they are all working without incident, but I am thinking of switching to knife splices for enhanced vibration resistance, covered with shrink for insulation. <https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=KNIFE+DISCONNECTS&x=26&y=14>
For those tempted to do something likewise, it is worth noting that Denali is selling a licensed version of the Hex EZCan with a somewhat different feature set. It might be worth investigating that device for your future projects. It does cost, however, about $100 more than the EZCan and I am not sure if what it offers is worth the extra money. <http://www.denalielectronics.com/cansmart-controller>
Winter is coming and I'm ready!
Photo shows my pilot (jacket heat indicator) light, mounted to the back of the Nav6 GPS
I rigged my Hex Ezcan <http://hexezcan.com>as the controller for my electric garments, plus the other usual items, lights, horn. Nice, neat installation controlled by the existing Wunderwheel (for heat intensity), & turn signal selector (for "on" "off.") Cheaper, cleaner, and lots neater than a typical heat controller, mounted on the handlebars, or wherever. The EZCan has a couple of leads that connect directly to the battery, and all the accessories (such as your jacket) then feed from the EZCan, which can handle around 25 amps, total, nominally.
Bike: 2017 R1200GS
I used EZCan Configuration 3, e.g.,
Red Circuit: Air horn operated by normal horn button. (Factory horn, left in place, works simultaneously, too.) (breaker tripped when set at 10 amps, but seems to work OK when set to 15 amps. I used a $16 horn from Ebay. Annoyingly loud--which is what I wanted, primarily for animals. [see http://katu.com/news/local/bear-stru...marion-county] Due to the different way that I had to use the "orange" circuit (below) the EZCan cannot flash my fog lights when the horn is sounded. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-...4923103?epid=12004205651&hash=item46665a94df: g:jrgAAOSwi8VZU07i&vxp=mtr>
Orange Circuit: Dedicated heated garment (jacket+gloves) circuit, breaker set to 10 amps. (2.4 ohm measured resistance with heated jacket and heated gloves in parallel--worst case-- or 14v/2.4ohms= ~6 amps.) Also have very small incandescent pilot light in this circuit to give me a visual indication of power (heat) level. [I initially tried an LED pilot, but it flickered annoyingly at low power due to PWM so I switched to an incandescent, which is more even-tempered.] Since I opted to use a nominal 10 amp "lighting circuit" for the heated jacket--and instead used the "white" accessory circuit for my fog lights, it means that I don't have access to the trick flashing of the fog lights normally associated with a typical EZCan installation. My red incandescent pilot light is from an airplane ($40) and has a twistable shutter to dim the lamp, if need be. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/el/presstotestindicators/ms25041.php> The bulb should last forever at the very low heat settings that I anticipate. My jacket plugin is identical to rhaines post, previously, however I am thinking that perhaps I should have mounted it in front of legs, to make the bike easier to mount. The rhaines mounting position is easiest, though, with much shorter wiring.
Yellow (brake) Circuit: Brake light (s), set to 1 amp for auxilliary LED license plate frame lights ($30.) <http://www.ebay.ca/itm/GYB-Products-Stopper-Red-LED-Light-Black-Clear-STOPPER-CLEAR/202039158694?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140620075055%26meid%3Daed97cdc89d141f7afc22d5c5212522d%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D272404147371&_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850>
White (aux) Circuit: Two 10w LED Cree "fog" lights ($12 each) in parallel (1.3 amps measured; breaker set to 2 amps.) These are for enhanced recognition. Might go to slightly bigger lights now that I see that I have a couple amps extra to play with . . . <http://www.ebay.com/itm/2inch-10W-C...3619374?hash=item283dafbdae:g:1QkAAOSwQjNW9f0 Y&vxp=mtr> My jacket plugin is identical to rhaines post, previously.
The EZCan concept is a little inflexible if you want to do something that they hadn't intended, but I am sure they will improve on the device, add more features, etc., over time. On my former F800GT I had wired in a FuzeBlock (brand) relay for my previous F800GT bike, but the EZCan is much more compact and elegant.
I used Positaps (2) and Posi-splices (a lot of them) and they are all working without incident, but I am thinking of switching to knife splices for enhanced vibration resistance, covered with shrink for insulation. <https://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=KNIFE+DISCONNECTS&x=26&y=14>
For those tempted to do something likewise, it is worth noting that Denali is selling a licensed version of the Hex EZCan with a somewhat different feature set. It might be worth investigating that device for your future projects. It does cost, however, about $100 more than the EZCan and I am not sure if what it offers is worth the extra money. <http://www.denalielectronics.com/cansmart-controller>
Winter is coming and I'm ready!
Photo shows my pilot (jacket heat indicator) light, mounted to the back of the Nav6 GPS
Attachments
Last edited:
I suspect the reason is two-fold. You make a good point of the plug pulling apart without damaging anything if you forget to disconnect it. The other reason I believe is simply for standardization. I can mix different brand gear without having to cut off plugs to make them work with another brand's gear with one plug setting.
As for location, I looked for a place where the plug wouldn't be in the way when I wasn't using the heated gear. In my case, I selected a place under the seat on the left side where I mount and dismount the bike. I can easily connect it that way...yet where it is, won't rub against the fairing as the cable to the controller sits between my thigh and the bike.
Chris
gloucesterman
New member
Hi Daboo,
You could ditch the wire from the controller to the liner if you go blue tooth. That's what I'm using and the latest version of the Heat Troller uses two AA's for power instead of a watch battery. With the low power drain of the controller the two AAA's should last quite a while. I used some waterproof Velcro to mount the controller next to the key slot on the left fairing pocket.
Later,
Norm
You could ditch the wire from the controller to the liner if you go blue tooth. That's what I'm using and the latest version of the Heat Troller uses two AA's for power instead of a watch battery. With the low power drain of the controller the two AAA's should last quite a while. I used some waterproof Velcro to mount the controller next to the key slot on the left fairing pocket.
Later,
Norm
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That sounds like a solution in search of a problem. This coming from a guy who was employed by a major airplane manufacturing company for 10 years in IT. I feel like a Luddite now.I'll take my old tried and true wired controller. I'm already connecting my airbag vest before getting on the bike, so it's no big deal to make one more connection. I've commuted probably 70,000 miles with heated gear and it works fine like this.
Chris
