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Thread: Heated jacket liner

  1. #1

    Heated jacket liner

    I just purchased a heated jacket liner made by Warm & Safe for First Gear. I wondering which is the best way to connect to the power. The easiest way it would seem would be to use the SAE pigtail or one of the ports, but the Warm & Safe video advises against that and recommends using the furnished wiring harness to connect directly to the battery terminals. I was hoping to avoid the hassle of removing the battery. Also the pigtail is on the right of the bike (2015 RT) and the pouch pocket for the heat troller receiver is on the left (naturally). I was eyeballing the length of the pigtail to see if it would reach to the other side, but I think it looks a little short.

  2. #2
    rabid reader dbrick's Avatar
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    The bike's built-in accessory sockets are current-limited, and won't work with a jacket liner: the liner draws enough current that the bike will shut off the electricity to the socket. Thus, you have to wire a pigtail directly to the battery. That pigtail can feed the liner directly (with an in-line fuse, and Heat-Troller or similar) or can provide current to an aftermarket power distribution block; the latter might be useful if you're going to connect other things to the bike's electrical system.

    Battery removal is detailed in the rider's manual. I had to do it on an Edelweiss rental bike in Norway in July. It was a bit of a PITA for me, but the tour leader who helped had done it before and was pretty facile.
    David Brick
    Santa Cruz CA
    2007 R1200R

  3. #3
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    On my 15RT I added a bmw/din plug just below the factory plug on right fairing
    It's wired direct to battery with a fuse. Other than carefully removing upper right plastic it was pretty simple
    No reason it wouldn't work on left side, just order the plug that has a 30inch pigtail and you should be good to go
    FYI I use this plug for heated vest, cyclegear pump and my battery charger, no issues with canbus

  4. #4
    Registered User jswisc's Avatar
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    FYI, on RT's that I rent I routinely use the accessory BMW plug with my heated jacket (cyclegear brand) and it works fine. On my 14' RT I use the sae from the battery. GS's you can't use the BMW plug, it trips the canbus overload. My wife uses the rear plug on my RT for her jacket and it works fine.
    2014 RT, 2008 Honda VFR, 2003 Ducati 800ss race bike

  5. #5

    Another reason

    Howdy,
    The closer you get to the power source (battery) the better the performance of whatever you are plugging in. On my 2014 I did not pull the battery but used the "jump" point just to the right of the battery to power a three positon fuse block under the passenger seat. The connector, now hanging below my seat, besides providing power for the heated liner also becomes a convenient connection point for my Battery Tender and when I'm on the road for my 12v air compressor.
    Later,
    Norm

  6. #6
    Registered User powwow's Avatar
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    I have a pigtail on my battery that does dual duty as the connection for my heated gear and the connection for my battery tender.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by jolev55 View Post
    I just purchased a heated jacket liner made by Warm & Safe for First Gear. I wondering which is the best way to connect to the power. The easiest way it would seem would be to use the SAE pigtail or one of the ports, but the Warm & Safe video advises against that and recommends using the furnished wiring harness to connect directly to the battery terminals. I was hoping to avoid the hassle of removing the battery. Also the pigtail is on the right of the bike (2015 RT) and the pouch pocket for the heat troller receiver is on the left (naturally). I was eyeballing the length of the pigtail to see if it would reach to the other side, but I think it looks a little short.
    I have a Gerbing's LT jacket and G3 gloves which pull about 9+amps so the dash socket couldn't be used , I installed a standard BMW socket on the left side of the bike in the triangular plastic section which puts it just behind your left knee which is a perfect plugin location. The socket is wired directly to the battery and has a 10amp inline fuse. Easy installation.

  8. #8
    Thanks for the responses. It looks like I have several options. So the consensus is that the stock electrical outlets are basically worthless.

  9. #9
    Registered User patm's Avatar
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    There's no need to pull the battery to connect the wire.
    There is a positive connector next to the battery and the negative is easily accessible.

    positive horn connection.jpg

    If the pig tail is too short to reach the left side, get a new longer one. Most brands are compatible.
    Pat

    Ride Safe!
    '16 RT

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by patm View Post
    There's no need to pull the battery to connect the wire.
    There is a positive connector next to the battery and the negative is easily accessible.

    positive horn connection.jpg

    If the pig tail is too short to reach the left side, get a new longer one. Most brands are compatible.
    And consider "coax" connectors rather than the SAE type. I think the Warm & Safe pigtail, for example, comes with the coax type - and recommends it for their heated gear.
    '17 R1200GS.
    Priors: '16 R1200R, '14 R1200GS, '13 K1600GT, '08 R1200RT, '04 R1150RT, '05 R1200GS, '73 R75/5 (LWB).

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by patm View Post
    There's no need to pull the battery to connect the wire.
    There is a positive connector next to the battery and the negative is easily accessible.

    positive horn connection.jpg

    If the pig tail is too short to reach the left side, get a new longer one. Most brands are compatible.
    So I'm looking at the right side of an RT and the positive connector is to the right of the battery with the red connector attached?

  12. #12
    you are correct.

  13. #13
    Dress for fall & avoid it AlanColes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailorlite View Post
    And consider "coax" connectors rather than the SAE type. I think the Warm & Safe pigtail, for example, comes with the coax type - and recommends it for their heated gear.
    Coax is typically the most common and "recommended" connector for heated gear, what appears to be the reasoning behind that is just so-so.

    Nothing wrong with coax except that it is not field repairable like DIN (BMW uses DIN). Like DIN it is easier to connect and disconnect than an SAE connector and that is important because most heated gear failures are at the coax connector wire just a it leaves the connector. So while they are better than SAE for ease of use, and equal to DIN, their most common failure point (like the SAE) is not field repairable while most DIN plugs are (small flat-blade screwdriver). The other benefit to coax over DIN is that there is slightly less electrical resistance through the connection, but it is very small and the only test I'm aware of was able to show the difference, but testing of the heated gear did not identify any difference in time to heat or ultimate heat levels, so it is mostly a non-issue.

    The coax is smaller for storing and comfort while wearing, but more difficult to connect than DIN with heavy gloves on, so give the nod to coax in that area.

    I have only SAE and DIN connectors on my bikes, with both SAE to Coax and DIN to Coax adaptors and a Powerlet DIN USB plug. That is because all my other accessories are either DIN, SAE, or USB (battery charger, phone charges, etc).

    I do carry a small SAE to cigarette lighter outlet adaptor for the possibility of needing to get something from an automotive shop in a pinch. This may well be overkill, but they are simply things I've accumulated over the years and I've found that having just one DIN and one SAE plug on my bike gives me all the flexibility I need with the use of a few small adapters.
    Regards, Alan - President BMWONS - MOA Charter Club #097, BMWMOA/BMWRA/BMWONS/Airheads
    Current: '14 R1200RT / '06 Ducati ST3s / '91 R100GS / '86 R80RT / '75 R90S / '73 850 & '70 750 Commando Prev: '04 R1150RT / '81 Honda GL1100 / '77 Suzuki GS750 / '73 Norton 850 Commando

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jolev55 View Post
    Thanks for the responses. It looks like I have several options. So the consensus is that the stock electrical outlets are basically worthless.
    I have a 14RT the sockets operates my jacket and gloves but a GS won't, not even enough amps to operate an air compressor. I'd have the pig tail just for that reason.

    Jay

  15. #15
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    Maybe another reason the heated gear OEM's recommend coax is that they pull apart fairly easily when you forget to unplug from the bike?
    2015 R1200GSA

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