Trailering

Hi Gang,

Has anyone trailered an r100? I'm picking up a '77 r100/7 and may end up trailering it instead of riding it home.

I have not seen anything on proper tie down locations and I want to be prepared.

Thanks in advance!

I'm sure some experts will be along with some tricks. Generally speaking, you won't put the bike on the centerstand. You'll need to have the front wheel into some kind of chock or at least something to strongly hold it down with no ability to walk sideways. You want soft tiedowns...usually these are a short piece with a loop of webbing...this goes around the frame...the other end is a hook. The other part of the tie downs have the mating hook along with ratchet to tighten things down. Two tie downs go around the lower yoke of the front forks, pulling forward and downward...must compress the suspension probably 1/2 way. Two more tie downs pick up a nice frame point on the aft end of the bike that pull down and slightly backwards.

Here are some past threads:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?29686-proper-tie-down-technique-when-trailering

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?6221-Trailering

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?11822-Trailering

Update: More info https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?88430-U-Haul-motorycle-trailer

Have a peek at this trailer thread- might help.
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?88430-U-Haul-motorycle-trailer
OM

BMW has printed tie-down instructions in recent owner manuals, and they generally agree with their instructions I have in the owners manual for my BMW Multi-Trailer.

The goal is to keep the center of gravity of the bike/trailer combination as low as possible and this is accomplished by compressing the bike's suspension as much as possible. The usual instructions are to loop straps around the handlebars just either side of center and then to add rear straps at the rear footpeg mounts. This is a little difficult with an R100RT unless you can temporarily detach the fork boots glued to the fairing. Yes, not on the centerstand and not on the side stand.

You hear all kinds of silly recommendations, but it should be obvious that a bike still bouncing on its suspension is not tied down securely. And, your bike came in a crate from the factory with the front suspension completely compressed, so you can ignore the legends that this is somehow a bad thing. It simply isn't.

lkchris said:

BMW has printed tie-down instructions in recent owner manuals, and they generally agree with their instructions I have in the owners manual for my BMW Multi-Trailer.

The goal is to keep the center of gravity of the bike/trailer combination as low as possible and this is accomplished by compressing the bike's suspension as much as possible. The usual instructions are to loop straps around the handlebars just either side of center and then to add rear straps at the rear footpeg mounts. This is a little difficult with an R100RT unless you can temporarily detach the fork boots glued to the fairing. Yes, not on the centerstand and not on the side stand.

You hear all kinds of silly recommendations, but it should be obvious that a bike still bouncing on its suspension is not tied down securely. And, your bike came in a crate from the factory with the front suspension completely compressed, so you can ignore the legends that this is somehow a bad thing. It simply isn't.

Click to expand...

Interesting...I've been trailering bikes for about a half a century and lowering the center of gravity (6" ) never even entered my mind as a consideration. For me, the partial compression of the suspension with a tie-down that has been rigged not to come off on a bump is perfect.
OM

20774 said:

I'm sure some experts will be along with some tricks. Generally speaking, you won't put the bike on the centerstand. You'll need to have the front wheel into some kind of chock or at least something to strongly hold it down with no ability to walk sideways. You want soft tiedowns...usually these are a short piece with a loop of webbing...this goes around the frame...the other end is a hook. The other part of the tie downs have the mating hook along with ratchet to tighten things down. Two tie downs go around the lower yoke of the front forks, pulling forward and downward...must compress the suspension probably 1/2 way. Two more tie downs pick up a nice frame point on the aft end of the bike that pull down and slightly backwards.

Here are some past threads:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?29686-proper-tie-down-technique-when-trailering

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?6221-Trailering

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?11822-Trailering

Update: More info https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?88430-U-Haul-motorycle-trailer

Click to expand...

Kurt has good suggestions (I haven't perused the links yet). I've trailered my R75/7, R100GS, K12LTC, R12C & R1150RTP many times using the same ideas: front ratcheting tie downs to soft ties around each side of the fork bridge, rear ratcheting tie downs to each side of the rear frame as low as possible. Some only use the front tie downs but I like the safety of the additional two at the rear. You don't need to ratchet down totally and blow out the fork seals, just enough to take the bounce out. I highly recommend that you do NOT tie down to the handlebars for the heavier bikes, though I do for my lighter trail and adv bikes. I install a front wheel chock wide enough to not impact the disk brakes, but also have screwed/nailed 2x4's to the front vertical wall, and/or a rail to the floor with (2) 2x4's a bit wider and to each side of the tires for temporary use.

Also, be very careful steering the bike up a ramp onto the trailer. I use an aluminum ramp wide enough for an atv, it gives plenty of room to walk beside the bike. Also, pay attention to the angle of the ramp at the trailer transition. I have seen low clearance bikes catch their side stands at the transition when too steep and flip the bike over to the right. Sometimes I put a 4x4 on the ground to raise the ramp edge and cut the angle.

A google search of "bmw motorcycle tie down procedure" should return two bmw pages, one for the K12LT and another for the R12C, complete with pics and step by step instructions. I can find them if you can't. Enjoy your R100/7!

Trailer time

On my R100/7 2 straps in back attached to frame top of schocks, 2 straps in front around each fork tube above fork brace. Use a front wheel chock if you have it. I got the $38 one at harbor freight mount it on a piece of 3/4 in. Plywood 2 ft. X 2 ft. Fine On wood flor trailer screw plywood to floor. You want two front straps out to side and in front of wheel so you hold bike so it cannot tip in either direction and at same time pull bike forward into chock back straps go out to the side to keep back end in place and help keep bike from tipping.
No wheel chock get front wheel against something so it can't roll forward strap off same as above again if you have a wood floor trailer take two 2x4 and screw one on each side of the wheels to help hold bike in place. Straps can and do loosen but if you have something to keep bike wheels from sliding off to the side that takes care of most problems. On a open trailer with straps flapping in breeze straps work loose faster, enclosed trailer go a few miles stop check straps if tight they will usually stay that way. I use cam lock straps get good ones thicker straps hold better, for a little bit more security pull the strap tight than take a few wraps of electrical tape around the two straps at the cam lock.

I always double strap the front end

It saved my HP-2 Enduro from a non-riding disaster a few years back so unless I'm just going down the road a bit (10-20 miles) I do a four point tie down and double up on the front. It can be a side show at times but I would rather take the time and provide the entertainment to prevent a problem than to take the time to clean up a mess and shed some tears.

As far as tie down points on the bike a few very good ones have been mentioned and yes I would also recommend the soft ties as well. If its your first encounter with the bike(buying, picking up for a friend or just want to know how to) I would avoid the handle bar ends as a tie down point, you never know if the bars are tight or compromised somehow. If you can get to the lower part of the triple tree that is an excellent place to wrap a couple soft ties around for the front end. The tail end can be secured right in front of the rear shock mounts. I would highly recommend removing the plastic battery covers and any other potentially loose and lost parts before going anywhere.

I don't know if any of the above links referenced this product, but many years ago I bought an R1150RT from the old BMW Motorad dealership in St. Louis. They loaned me a Canyon Dancer bar harness, and I remember the guy telling me to just mail it back when I got home, but he predicted by the time I got home I would just buy it from them. He was right. It would work great on the bike you're buying. Very simple, very secure.

http://www.canyondancer.com/originalbarharness

Howard

Thank you

I appreciate everyone's advice on the topic. I ended up getting it home the old fashioned (best) way. Now I've got some new questions that I'll put in another thread.

Been Hauling a long time

Just brought an R50/5 back, and it is still tied down. I use 6 of the racheting straps that are available everywhere. Important things to note, as previously mentioned, don't use the center or side stand when transporting, and always have the transmission in neutral. Compress the suspension about half way, or more. This is a far cry from the first bike I hauled... a 1970 BSA Victor that blew up on me in Ft Scott, Kansas back in 1971. My Father came out from Albuquerque to haul me back... we tied the bike on the trunk lid with rope (it was a '63 Buick Special). Isn't that the way that everyone who tours on a 441 British thumper does it? Since then I have trailered about 80 cars and 30 bikes...

Welcome to the forum CB!
Gary

Welcome! Reminds me of my picture transporting my R25/2 inside a panel van. My custom designed floor tie-down system. Worked pretty well.