What size resistor to stop the front side light malfunction warning? 2006 R1200RT

aussiebob · Aug 31, 2017

Further to my last post I tried fitting the LED side lights with a ceramic resistor on the positive side of the bulb! I gave it another go as the guy at the electronics store knew exactly what I was talking about and supplied me the 10W10 OHM ceramic resistors. I did a great job of fitting them however they did not work once the bike started and I still have the Front Light Malfunction showing on the dash. The guy at the store said that if the 10W10 OHMs did not trick the computer by the extra current draw then come back and get a larger value resistors. Anybody know what will make these work or am I being foolish for persevering?

Can anyone tell me the size that works?
Give any tips and pointers ?
And give an opinion whether 6000K Cool white Bulbs will be too bright on the road??

Note!! we are only talking the front side /park lamps (Shown working when bike not running)

Aussie Bob AKA Leon

kthutchinson · Aug 31, 2017

Did you fit the resistors in series or in parallel with the LEDs?

pauls1150 · Aug 31, 2017

Can't give you an actual number, but - You need to know the "window" (min & max) of current that the computer expects to see, then determine what current your replacement light(s) pull, and select a resistor that, when in parallel (not series) with the lamp, will cause that combination (of lamp + resistor) to pull the current that the computer expects. :scratch

Or just find out what everybody else uses...

Referring back to your other thread - Your first picture here clearly shows "high power" ... If these do indeed draw more current than stock (as I presumed earlier), a resistor in parallel with the lamp does NOT fix it - this would just pull even more current. A resistor in series would reduce it, but would also reduce the amount of light output. If you have the time and gumption, you can try that (in series) on one side just to see how much the light is reduced, and if you approve, do it on the other side and then you'll see if the total current is back down to where the computer is happy.

WHAT ARE THE "STOCK" BULBS? 1) Incandescent or LED, and 2) is there a part # on them? Maybe we can find a replacement that's a bit brighter but doesn't pull too much extra current... But typically, whether filament or LED, more light requires more current... If the stockers are filament, there's hope, if LED, a bit less...

aussiebob · Aug 31, 2017

kthutchinson said:
Did you fit the resistors in series or in parallel with the LEDs?

in series, Do you think it should have been Parallel??

Thanks for your response Karl!

kthutchinson · Aug 31, 2017

leon.schmeider said:
in series, Do you think it should have been Parallel??

Thanks for your response Karl!

Yes, parallel. LEDs require less current than incandescent bulbs. A series resistor further limits the current, so the ZFE on your bike sees much less current that expected and throws a warning. A parallel resistor increases the current through the circuit, and with the correct value resistance, will match the current of an incandescent bulb and eliminate the warning.

aussiebob · Aug 31, 2017

Pauls1150 said:
Wish I could just find what someone else did!
Surely someone has done it before?? Search threads successfully seem elusive to me on this site!

From the extra wiring I added last night (see PIC) I was thinking that I could disassemble again, drop the wires out the front wheel area and start testing resistors unil I get it!

I'll be asking plenty of questions as I learn my way with this new bike! Have burn patchs above the bulbs in the outer two headlights (but one problem at a time) they were changed by previous owner!

Stock Bulbs are H10s 12V 3 Watt Incandescent I think?? I stuck 5 W in for the trip this week end.
Stockers are filament I am wanting that match with the fork lights. Previous PIC
Thanks for the input! Hope someone has and an answer!

temesvar · Aug 31, 2017

I see you are trying hard, do the best to have LED's all around!
It is worth it, and is fun getting there! No need for resistors for
the parking lights. You can use
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/1127/2673/
Save the resistors for the brake lights! The only place you need them.
Before anything else, change the LO bulbs to HID, is well worth the trouble,
much more than the parking lights.

pauls1150 · Aug 31, 2017

Stock Bulbs are H10s 12V 3 Watt Incandescent I think?? I stuck 5 W in for the trip this week end

If that's what they really are ... Current = Power divided by Voltage, so a 3 watt bulb will pull 0.25 amps, and a 5 watt bulb will pull 0.416 amps (assuming they are both filament types). So that's the starting point...

blender · Aug 31, 2017

Good grief. You're going through a lot of effort (and perhaps some small expense) to get those LEDs to work.

As Temesvar and I have posted, just get the *correct* damn bulbs that actually work. But hey, just because they've been working in my RT for the past year+ is no reason to assume they would work in your bike... After all Plug n Play is so over rated.

Best wishes to your continuing cut & splice work.

temesvar · Sep 1, 2017

I hope you knew resistors become very, very hot and damage whatever they come
in contact with, plastic or wires. Wish I knew!! And only place you need a resistor is
at one of the brake bulbs, if you change them with LED's. Yes, one will do, no need
for two, at least in my case that was all I had to install.

aussiebob · Sep 2, 2017

temesvar said:
I hope you knew resistors become very, very hot and damage whatever they come into contact with.

Yes I had the resistor well mounted, tie strap in a high airflow location that would have dissipate heat, however was not to be. I have ordered some cam bus led as you have suggested. Thank you sooo much!

Aussie Bob

What size resistor to stop the front side light malfunction warning? 2006 R1200RT

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