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Thread: Welding on bike

  1. #1
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    Welding on bike

    I have a /7 and the tang on the centre stand has broken off.

    I would like to have a new tang welded on and a larger foot put on the side stand.

    Can I have a new tang arc welded back on without taking the stand off the bike and a larger foot put on the side stand without damaging the electric circuitry?

  2. #2
    Registered User jandhumphreyme's Avatar
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    Yes. I'd remove the battery before beginning. The welding ground needs to be placed as close to the weld as practical, making sure it's in good contact with the steel.
    So often times it happens that we live our lives in chains
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  3. #3
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Ground clamp on the center stand- not the bike frame. The electrical connection through the pivot point is something to avoid ⚡️
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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  4. #4
    Airmarshal-IL James.A's Avatar
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    If you are talking about the OEM side stand, or any stand really, be careful about adding material that might contact the exhaust pipe or muffler when retracted.

    With regard to the center stand tang, I'd remove the stand from the bike so as to better access a weld all the way around position. Also, it gives you the opportunity to grease the pivot bushings where the stand attaches to the frame.
    1973 R75/5

  5. #5
    Registered User RIDERR1150GSADV's Avatar
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    Stray currents from welding can wreak havoc with electrical systems so if at all possible, remove the center stand from the bike. Your electrical system will thank you later...
    If it has to stay on, remove the battery completely as previously stated.
    Last edited by RIDERR1150GSADV; 08-24-2017 at 07:13 PM.
    MOA # 108516
    Current ride 2017 R1200RT White
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  6. #6
    Registered User toooldtocare's Avatar
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    When I welded the new tang on my R90S, I used a 1/4 bolt, the type used to build decks, about 8 inches long. I cut it about a 1/2 inch longer than correct length, ground a flat on the end without the bolt head, and bent it to approximately the correct shape. I then used a pair of vice grips to hold it on the stand while I removed it from the bike. I then welded the tang on and reinstalled the stand. Once on I was able to bend the bolt into a better shape, but I decided that I did not like the bolt head, so I cut it off. It worked well ever since and looked almost factory.

  7. #7
    Bluenoser
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    Contrary to popular opinion, there is no need to remove the battery unless it is the old wet cell type with a vent hose. ( Don't ask how I know ). The battery acts as a resistor in the circuit, so there is really no reason to remove it. Even so, it is better to remove the center stand as it is much easier to do a good welding job. You need a good ground and it is much easier to weld the stand with it out of the bike.

    Before welding a bigger foot, see if it will clear exhaust etc. Likely you are better off to just get one of those ones you place under the side stand, or crush a beer can/pop can in a pinch. I've picked up the Dunlop ones that the tire manufacturer gives out a BMW National Rally's and they work fine. Just put a piece of weed wacker line on them, so you don't loose them, hook it around the handlebar and you are good to go. Remove before you ride away.
    1995 R100Rt with Kenna Sidecar, 1998 VT1100T

  8. #8
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycleman2 View Post
    Contrary to popular opinion, there is no need to remove the battery unless it is the old wet cell type with a vent hose. ( Don't ask how I know ). The battery acts as a resistor in the circuit, so there is really no reason to remove it.
    ,
    1997 R1100RT (Restored Basket Case) , 1981 KZ 440 LTD (Restored Basket Case, my baby, fast, fun)
    3xR90/6, two just sold, one for a sidecar. 1983 K100RS (Cafe now)
    Very Rough R80RT. 1987 K1100RS (freaking hooped I think)

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