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Thread: Bing 32 (11/12) question

  1. #31
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    sprouty and James -

    Busted...I forgot what the points tool was simulating. You guys are right!
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  2. #32
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    Thanks again guys, I'll report back as soon it stops raining and I get things back apart - unfortunately this is "yard project" until I free up shed space (my Triumph Thruxton is regrettably, being sold to make room).

  3. #33
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    I appear to be stuck on the timing. Here is where I'm at -
    new points and condenser from Max BMW. They don't seem to be the problematic type with the long can block, but I can't seem to get the static timing anywhere close. I've tried adjusting the gap from .004" to .020". I've also rotated the points plate to the extremes of the slots. And no matter what I do the transition from closed to open is probably 20 to 30 degrees before I see the "S" in the timing hole.

    Pics may help...

    With the "S" visible in the timing window the pink dot on the mechanical advance is in the position shown (use the red dot on the case as a reference point):
    20170914_165431.jpg

    But here is where the closed to open transition occurs with the gap all the way down to .004" and the points plate rotated fully CW:
    20170914_165403.jpg

    And it only gets worse with a larger gap and the points plate rotated CCW. There isn't even enough room to open the slots in the points plate to correct it. What am I missing?

  4. #34
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    A few pics of the new points...
    20170914_173358.jpg

    And from the side where it has Noris stamped on it:
    20170914_173442.jpg

  5. #35
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    The point gap is set with the points rubbing block riding on the highest part of the advance cam. There is a tool available from Cycleworks that replaces the advance unit which allows for setting the gap without having to work around the arms of the advance unit.

    It does look like your points are not the offending one. Here's something that compares the two side by side:

    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...l=1#post885249
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    The point gap is set with the points rubbing block riding on the highest part of the advance cam. There is a tool available from Cycleworks that replaces the advance unit which allows for setting the gap without having to work around the arms of the advance unit.

    It does look like your points are not the offending one. Here's something that compares the two side by side:

    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...l=1#post885249
    Thanks, I have the points setting tool and that's what I've been using to set the gap. And looking at that image in the link, I definitely have points with a shorter rubbing block.

  7. #37
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    So after a bit more research and some helpful suggestions I've traced the problem to the flywheel - it was reassembled by someone one bolt hole off from the correct orientation.

    I'm in the process of correcting that and then I should be good to go. Thanks again for all the help.

  8. #38
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    sprouty -

    I've heard of that possibility, but it would be way down the list of things. I presume you determined where TDC is by rotating the engine while looking into the spark plug hole or putting a soda straw in there. When the straw comes all the way out and then goes back down, the middle point between those two would be TDC. If the TDC mark is not in the window, that would be a problem. Somewhere there are measurements along the flywheel circumference that convert degrees to inches of circumference distance. It would be possible to make new temporary marks for TDC and the S-mark...the F-mark would be a bit more problematic.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  9. #39
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    Yes, I confirmed it just as you described. Then I counted the number of flywheel teeth to "OT", it was about 18 and a half. So 18.5/93 = X/360, X = 72 (approx). This is the same as shifting the flywheel 1 bolt hole in a 5-bolt pattern 5/360 = 72.

    I thought about remarking the flywheel but, I decided against that and started the disassembly process.

    I know I have to start with the engine at TDC
    I have to block the crank to keep it from pushing forward
    I have to block the flywheel to keep it from rotating
    I understand how to release the pressure on the spring diaphragm with the bolts and lock nuts

    Right now I'm waiting to get back to work so I can modify my 27mm socket to fit into the swingarm. I'm going slow and keeping things organized.

  10. #40
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're on the right path!
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  11. #41
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    Just a quick update (because I hate threads that fade out with no resolution) - between rain and travel for work I haven't been able to do more with the flywheel. So in the meantime I've done the following:
    - I unmounted the old rear tire and started trying to sort out what makes sense to put back on (lots of opinions...)
    - Then I worked on the wheel - I pulled the cap off the wheel bearing stack and was pleasantly surprised to find reasonably fresh grease. Continuing on I degreased the left-side bearing and internal parts that I couild remove (the wedding band and inner spacer came out as well). I found that the race and bearing looked perfect. So I packed it all up with wheel bearing grease and put it back together. I thought about pulling the stack, but changed my mind as it all just seemed like it was in really good condition.
    - I also cleaned the hub and rim and everything seems in good shape there as well, though some of the spokes are starting to lose small bits of plating. Need to keep an eye on that...and if this bike turns out to be a keeper, then re-lacing may be in the future.

    - I ordered a few tools (flywheel puller/blocking bar and grease tool from Cycleworks) and I have a list going for bolts, gaskets, o-rings, etc. - but I want to get the flywheel off so I can figure out how things look and what size flywheel bolts I have before I place the order.
    - I also ordered some moly paste after spending what seemed like a ridiculous amount of time sorting through what was recommended, what what was not, and what was still available. Holy ****! (for the record I went with Loctite LB 8012)

    - Still need to meaure the drum to see where it's at for wear.
    - And before I'm done I will check the preload by following the "wheel shake procedure": http://w6rec.com/bmw-motorcycle-whee...and-spun-hubs/

    So, I'm still at it...

  12. #42
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Keepin' On!
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  13. #43
    ABC,AMA(LIFE),MOA,RA,IBMW MANICMECHANIC's Avatar
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    Keep up the good work. There may come a time when it is better to walk away for a while, rather than go too fast and miss something. Never be afraid or ashamed to ask for help or advice. You are doing well.
    F.O.G.Rider, Rounder #6,
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  14. #44
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    Very much apreciate the support. I'm definitely not one to rush things even though I'm anxious to keep going - which is why I got the correct tools on order. I should be back home Friday and working again over the weekend.

    Btw, just ordered tires, tubes and new rim strips...

  15. #45
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    More updates...

    My tools came in and I got to it, but as expected I found a few more things that needed attention:

    Axle nut with some hefty chisel marks in it:
    20170930_154558.jpg

    Bent clutch release lever - though this may have been done to allow for more clearance near the frame, I need to look into it a bit more.
    20170930_170842.jpg

    Stripped final drive filler hole:
    20171001_113926.jpg

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