Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 31 to 35 of 35

Thread: '97 r1100rt

  1. #31

    '97 r1100rt

    Quote Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
    Wayne,
    If you start replacing parts without making some additional measurements, it may become harder to find your problem.

    By confirming that your RID shows fuel level when you turn the key on, we've confirmed that your key switch, kill switch and side stand switch are working. Now we need you to make some measurements with a dvm so we can determine why the fuel pump isn't running, which requires that several devices operate: Fuse 5, Fuse 6, the Motronic relay, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump connector, the fuel pump, and the Motronic ECU.

    It would help if you made some basic measurements with a DVM. In the debugging process you can start with the pump and work backward or at the battery and work forward. I suggest that you get a DVM, remove the connector from one of the fuel injectors, and measure the voltage at its green/white wire. When you turn the key on, the voltage should go from zero to ~12V for a second or two.

    From that one piece of data we can point you toward the fuel tank or toward the electrical box.
    I bought the relays way back in the beginning. After I read an old thread. Someone suggested to "Dick" [his name really is Richard]. I'm pretty sure, swapping relays doesn't fix the problem. Exchanging load shed and horn relays may enable the lsr,but then you wouldn't have a horn. Am I correct? I wanted all the relays to function and not lose anything.

  2. #32
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    North Ridgeville OH
    Posts
    1,517
    noobus1100 - Swapping relays is just a diagnostic technique, not a permanent repair. I haven't had to do it on a bike yet, but if the relays are the same and you swap them, you have the possibility of the failure following the relay to the new function and the original problem being "fixed." I did just that on the air conditioning on my van last year and was able to solve it quickly without fighting my way to the plug on the back of the compressor. In this case, if you swap the relays and the bike still doesn't start, but the horn still works, it probably isn't the relay.

    Are you in Ohio? If so, how close to North Ridgeville (44039)?

    Is this the thread you thought you lost to the Cosmos? Are you still having the issues you mentioned in that post as well?
    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...839-97-r1100rt

    As for older topics which may be about your bike,
    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...mbus-Ohio-2006
    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...lectric-issues
    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...or-Kill-switch

    You mention the fuses being good, but did you actually check them or just look at them? I don't really trust the exposed wire ones that originally came on the bike. One intermittent failure caused by a wire broken at the crimp was enough for me to just start swapping them out with new over-molded fuses from the auto parts store before I do anything else. Thanks again, dieselyoda.
    Last edited by rxcrider; 08-16-2017 at 08:01 PM.

  3. #33

    '97 r1100rt

    Quote Originally Posted by roger 04 rt View Post
    Wayne,
    If you start replacing parts without making some additional measurements, it may become harder to find your problem.

    By confirming that your RID shows fuel level when you turn the key on, we've confirmed that your key switch, kill switch and side stand switch are working. Now we need you to make some measurements with a dvm so we can determine why the fuel pump isn't running, which requires that several devices operate: Fuse 5, Fuse 6, the Motronic relay, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump connector, the fuel pump, and the Motronic ECU.

    It would help if you made some basic measurements with a DVM. In the debugging process you can start with the pump and work backward or at the battery and work forward. I suggest that you get a DVM, remove the connector from one of the fuel injectors, and measure the voltage at its green/white wire. When you turn the key on, the voltage should go from zero to ~12V for a second or two.

    From that one piece of data we can point you toward the fuel tank or toward the electrical box.
    Good morning, I got a voltmeter and did what you said. Pulled the injector on the right side, 0. Tried the other side, just for ****s and giggles, 0. Now what?

  4. #34
    Registered User rxcrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    North Ridgeville OH
    Posts
    1,517
    Quote Originally Posted by noobus1100 View Post
    Good morning, I got a voltmeter and did what you said. Pulled the injector on the right side, 0. Tried the other side, just for ****s and giggles, 0. Now what?
    just to confirm, you had the meter turned on to DC Voltage with the positive lead from the meter connected to the green / white wire and the negative lead from the meter attached to the battery negative post or a good frame ground location, right? You then should have turned the key to the on position, making sure the RID turned on and simultaneously watching for a brief voltage at the injector.

  5. #35
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Florida & Massachusetts
    Posts
    1,774
    [attach]63193[/IMG_3073.jpg

Similar Threads

  1. PR4's on my R1100RT??
    By 26667 in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-21-2015, 05:00 PM
  2. looking for some help 98 r1100rt
    By rtwoody in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 08-24-2011, 02:47 PM
  3. R1100rt?
    By JOECUBANA in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 05-24-2007, 07:41 PM
  4. R1100rt-p
    By gec343 in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-08-2004, 02:08 AM
  5. R1100rt
    By 34 in forum Ride Reports
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-14-2003, 11:26 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •