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1970 R75/5 #2970531 Restoration

Looks like it has served well all those years. Do they sell replacement pouches/bags somewhere?

What?!?! You don't like the history imbibed by that rich patina!!

They're NLA from BMW, but show up on eBay occasionally (usually with some of the tools), and usually in just about the same condition as yours is. Wunderlich is offering a tool roll but it doesn't resemble the OEM version.
 
Frame Badge

You have the correct frame badge on the steering head. The early models did not have the aluminum badge. Also, the really early models did not have a turn signal indicator light in the headlight shell.
As far as long and short wheelbase, if you look on the sub-frame that you have you'll notice only one cross tube at the front. It has the tabs for bolting on the fender. A long wheelbase sub-frame will have two tubes going across at the front. The forward tube supports the tool tray. The rear one has the tabs for the fender bolts. If you had a LWB sub-frame with a SWB swingarm the shock would tilt back at the top.
 
My 2970306 has that same VIN sticker, except yours is in slightly better condition. Of course, the VIN is also stamped just around the corner from it on the right side frame gusset.
 
Tires

So this bike came with a front Metzeler Lasertec and a rear Metzeler 880 Marathon. Both have great tread and date codes of 2009. Any opinions on if I should:

A) Leave them
B) Replace rear with a matched Lasertec from front.
C) Replace front with a match Marathon from rear.
D) Replace both with something new and/or different ... Bridgestone BT45?
 

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Eight years seems quite long on tires. Depending on location/weather/exposure, sidewall cracking will begin to show which severely limits the usefulness of the tire.

Personally, I wouldn't worry about have mismatched brands front/rear. Tires/rubber is pretty much universal these days.
 
Tires?

Replace them. As for what to put on, take your pick! Don't want to start a new tire war based on brand and in. vs metric sizing!
 
Even if you cannot see cracking, over time ozone will have caused the tires' rubber to harden; because hysteresis is reduced, the tires' ability to grip the road will also have declined.

I wouldn't ride 8 year old tires around the block.
 
Even if you cannot see cracking, over time ozone will have caused the tires' rubber to harden; because hysteresis is reduced, the tires' ability to grip the road will also have declined.

I wouldn't ride 8 year old tires around the block.

+1 except I'd ride it around the block. 8 years is too long in the tooth - new tires will make an amazing difference.
 
I bought a stainless steel bolt kit. As I replace some of the ugly old bolts and then also with reassembly, what is the thought on grease, anti-loc, loctite or just dry? Seems to be many different theories.
 

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Heat Cycle

Even if you cannot see cracking, over time ozone will have caused the tires' rubber to harden; because hysteresis is reduced, the tires' ability to grip the road will also have declined.

I wouldn't ride 8 year old tires around the block.

In addition to ozone, repeated heat cycles dry out the oils in the rubber and tires become ice skates.
 
I bought a stainless steel bolt kit. As I replace some of the ugly old bolts and then also with reassembly, what is the thought on grease, anti-loc, loctite or just dry? Seems to be many different theories.

Copper based anti seize paste is a must in most but not all fasteners applications. NOT on spark plug threads; they go in dry. Dissimilar metals, i e SS machine screw into steel or aluminum begs for anti seize paste. Grease is mostly short term and valueless. Loc title is necessary where it is necessary to secure critical fasteners. Loc rite and anti seize are NOT compatible. Torque values used to secure a fastener using anti seize must be reduced somewhat because the friction elements of dry threads are reduced-be careful!!!
 
Generally speaking on the run of various stock fasteners around the bike, I can't think of any that have any kind of Loctite, sealant, oil, etc. The oil pan bolts probably can use a non-hardening sealant to prevent oil from wicking down the threads. Other engine interior bolts use Loctite plus the driveshaft output flange bolts. But in general, I don't see where anything else is used. I good selection of wavy washers is certainly needed.

Note that stainless is a bit more slippery and if you're considering a torque wrench on any of these bolts/nuts, you can easily over torque as fastener. Also, check out Snowbum's section on this...he has other cautions like using anti seize to prevent galling of the threads. Not needed on OEM bolts, though.

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/hardware.htm
 
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