recommendations on bike lifts and brake line replacement suggestions, please

Hi all,
I just bought a 2000 R1100RT, 12,500 documented miles. Has ad services done but has seen about 1000 miles since 13. Good: low miles, know the history, great bike (rented one about 2 years ago . . . loved it). So, I changed motor oil and gear oil (motor needed it, gear was pristine). Bled brakes (needed it too) only to discover a spurting leak in the front system!!! (see God is watching out for me?!!? He says "Ker, since you are stupid enough to get back on a bike in texting-infested Houston, Texas, I am going to make you change your brake lines before you ride on 17 year old rubber lines!! . . . . at least that is what I heard). That said, I am also 56 and working on the ground is unappealing. I would like the form's advice on a storable (meaning it would be great if I could lean it up against a wall) bike lift. Does anyone have the cheaper 'floor jack' looking ones that support the bike between the wheels? Like it, hate it? thoughts on any other lift? Thanks.

Additionally, brake line change. SS for sure. Whose brand do you recommend? I heard about Galfer and then Spiegler. About $60 difference between them. Both appear to be american made. Any thoughts? Saw a guy install the Galfer on youtube, looked pretty doable. Have to take the bike apart it seems. Tank and firings off, but that is just time and beer and music in my hot Houston Garage.

Thanks,
Ker Thomson

Both are good. I use Spiegler just because I have had excellent product from them repeatedly.

PGlaves said:

Both are good. I use Spiegler just because I have had excellent product from them repeatedly.

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I heartily agree with Paul on the Spieglers. I've installed many sets with 0 issues.

thank you for the advice.

After a recent argument with a Galfer line on one of my airheads I will ONLY use Speigler from now on. The reason is the fittings on the Spiegler lines allow for angle adjustment and the Galfer lines on my RS did not making a bad fit nearly impossible to correct without wrecking the fitting seal on the teflon lines. Spiegler provide a small tool with your order for this purpose and instructions on how to use it properly.

Just get the Sieglers; you'll be satisfied with them for the life of the bike. You get what you pay for with teflon braided lines.

Spiegler.

I got a full set from Amazon a year ago but see that they no longer sell the kits. Lots of other vendors online now. Shop for price. I talked to Spiegler USA several times and they told me that they custom build each order because of all the choices in colors of the tubing and fittings, plus the requests for custom lengths. They ship very quickly.

I installed front and rear brake lines and the clutch line on a Saturday on my R1100S ABS. These hoses bend redily but will NOT twist. Therefore, you will need the plastic "jaws" and dowel pin to twist the end fitting to fit the last banjo bolt on each run. DO NOT TOUCH the banjo fitting with anything else (pliars, screwdrivers, wrenches, etc) These fittings are a softer alloy and if the faces of the banjo fitting aren't perfect it will NOT seal. Also, be very careful torqing the banjo bolts. These are also a soft alloy AND hollow, not nearly as strong as even a common low grade steel bolt. AMHIK. Failure to heed takes much longer and more money.

I'm agreeing with everyone else on the Spiegler lines, I have them on my R1100RS and they make a noticeable difference. Also, Spiegler makes their lines just a little longer than stock so you don't need new lines if you decide to add bar risers. I'm lucky enough to live just a few miles from their shop so I had them make me a set for pickup. I remember a Bimmer in the lot along with a Porsche and a VW, these guys know German machines.

As for the lift, I have one I bought at Harbor Freight for about $70 that works fine for me. I just use the center stand for the RS but my Guzzi is 800 lbs and does fine on this lift. I guess you could remove the quick disconnect push handle from the lift and store it sideways, but under a tool bench would probably be better.

BMW service bulletin warns against using SS brake lines on ABS bikes?

Who hear has read the BMW factory service bulletin warning against using stainless steel brake lines on the "wheel circuits" of ABS or Whizzy Brake equipped bikes? Of those who have read it, does it concern you?

For those unaware, BMW issued a warning against using stainless steel brake lines between the ABS and/or Whizzy brake pump and the calipers ("wheel circuit") because of the possibility that under extreme conditions the inflexibility of the SS lines (vs. rubber lines) could cause a system pressure spike high enough to open up the emergence pressure relief, resulting in loss of braking. This warning apparently applies to all ABS II or III bikes from the mid-1990's through the mid-2000's when BMW started fitting SS lines from the factory.

Thanks.

GREGFEELER said:

Who hear has read the BMW factory service bulletin warning against using stainless steel brake lines on the "wheel circuits" of ABS or Whizzy Brake equipped bikes? Of those who have read it, does it concern you?

For those unaware, BMW issued a warning against using stainless steel brake lines between the ABS and/or Whizzy brake pump and the calipers ("wheel circuit") because of the possibility that under extreme conditions the inflexibility of the SS lines (vs. rubber lines) could cause a system pressure spike high enough to open up the emergence pressure relief, resulting in loss of braking. This warning apparently applies to all ABS II or III bikes from the mid-1990's through the mid-2000's when BMW started fitting SS lines from the factory.

Thanks.

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I read that a long time ago.
Funny that later servo brake bikes came with exactly those lines OE.

Note:
I have retrofitted many early bikes and never had an issue. No concerns.

So glad this topic was brought up because I'm performing the 24K mile service on my '02 R1150RT with the Servo Assisted ABS brakes, or as some call them....Whizzy Brakes and I've decided on a set of Speigler brake lines also. My concern is, how does one avoid introducing air in to the ABS system when removing and replacing the brake lines? Seems impossible. By virtue of removing brake lines, you're going to get air in the system. Granted this would have to be bled out, but I'd be interested to hear any input from those with "Whizzy Brakes" who've successfully done this upgrade.

tangoalpha said:

So glad this topic was brought up because I'm performing the 24K mile service on my '02 R1150RT with the Servo Assisted ABS brakes, or as some call them....Whizzy Brakes and I've decided on a set of Speigler brake lines also. My concern is, how does one avoid introducing air in to the ABS system when removing and replacing the brake lines? Seems impossible. By virtue of removing brake lines, you're going to get air in the system. Granted this would have to be bled out, but I'd be interested to hear any input from those with "Whizzy Brakes" who've successfully done this upgrade.

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Done lots of servo brake line switch overs. Your lines will be full of air.

Change the power lines first:
On the power sides its as simple as pumping fresh fluid thru the system to the retracted/blocked calipers with the lever or pedal. (using the funnel)

Next change the control lines:
On the control side each circuit is bled from the Lever and Pedal reservoirs to the appropriate bleed screws with a vacuum generator or Mity Vac.
This covers it well http://advrider.com/index.php?resources/abs-3-service-v2-0.7/


When you are done:
If you have a GS911 you can do a bleed test to ensure the control lines are clear of air. Note that you will use a VIN space if you choose that option.
If you don't, then make sure the lever and pedals are firm when the system is operational.

FWIW, got Spieglers from STG. Cheers.