Front and Rear shock replacement info needed for R1100RS

I picked up a couple of used shocks for the R1100RS, so I can get the leaking Ohlins off to send away for repair. I was wondering if there is a tutorial somewhere on here for the R&R of both front and rear shocks. Does the fuel tank need to come off bike to do the front, and what is involved with the rear?

I really appreciate all the help. I'm a new guy to this bike and am asking a lot of questions I know..

Cheers

I have both the R100RS (airhead) and R1100RS (oilhead). Since this is posted in the oilhead section of this forum I will assume that you mean the R1100RS.
I have replaced the shocks on both bikes, but the following comments are directed towards the oilhead.

The rear suspension uses a single shock located just ahead of the rear wheel. The rear wheel needs to be removed. The final drive and single sided swing arm needs to be supported during the change out of the shock. The seat (mine is a two-piece seat) needs to be removed. There are bolts for top and bottom of the shock; I removed these bolts and cleaned the spooge (slang term for dirt, grime, and old grease). I applied a light coating of fresh grease prior to installing the bolt in the new shock. In my case I used front and rear shocks from Hagon. My rear shock had a remote adjuster, thus the orientation of the shock is somewhat dependent on the desired location of the remote adjuster. The bolts should be torqued to the specified values.

The front shock uses a thru bolt on the lower swingarm (telelever); there is a threaded stud at the top of the shock that is affixed to the frame just behind the steering stem. The fuel tank does need to be removed as do the left and right side panels. My preference is to siphon most of the fuel from the tank prior to removal (much lighter and easier to handle). I use some fuel line clamps before disconnecting the supply and return fuel lines. I have previously removed the charcoal cannister. The vent lines are just disconnected. Don't forget to disconnect the connector which powers the fuel pump and returns the fuel level signal. One does not need to remove the front wheel, but the wheel does need to be supported prior to disconnecting the front shock. Similar to the rear, I clean the lower bolt and apply a light coating of grease prior to reassembly. Bolts should be torqued to the specified values.

Torque values and more info can be found in the factory manual, available for download via the link below. An additional link is provided for the manual compiled by a number of oilhead owners. Sometimes the owner compiled procedures offer more clear explanation for ways of doing things than the factory manual.

http://motodataproject.com/verify_download.php?products_id=170
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/R11Manual/Oilhead_Maintenance_2-25-02.pdf

yes, I failed to add the additional 1 in the R1100RS in title. Thanks so much for the detailed instructions. By fuel clamps, do you mean a specific fuel type clamp?

Thanks..

My 94 R1100RS does not come with the quick dis-connects that stop the fuel flow. Any residual fuel in the tank will start pouring out once the rubber fuel lines are disconnected from the lines going to the injectors. I use a type of clamp the pinches the rubber line and keeps the fuel from coming out. The items shown in the attached link are the exact items that I use.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4506-Fuel-Line-Clamp/dp/B002YKHRUK

Some folks have installed a quick dis-connect that stops fuel from flowing when dis-connected and allows fuel to flow when connected. I had a bad experience when trying to use something similar on another bike - the o-rings should have been fuel resistant, but were not. I got about 3 miles before the o-rings swelled and blocked flow. No flow = no go. I had the bike towed home and removed the quick dis-connects. Following is a link to an example of the quick dis-connects -

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Quick-Disconnect-Couplings/dp/B000N5QIE4

I do not find it inconvenient to use the clamps on the fuel lines when I need to remove the oilhead fuel tank.

Awesome, thanks for the link.

I updated the title!

20774 said:

I updated the title!

Click to expand...

Much thanks

bubbadozer1 said:

I picked up a couple of used shocks for the R1100RS, so I can get the leaking Ohlins off to send away for repair. I was wondering if there is a tutorial somewhere on here for the R&R of both front and rear shocks. Does the fuel tank need to come off bike to do the front, and what is involved with the rear?

I really appreciate all the help. I'm a new guy to this bike and am asking a lot of questions I know..

Cheers

Click to expand...

Hey, Bubbadozer1,

I replaced both front and rear OEM suspenders on my '99 R1100S a week ago with Wilbers. I used a screw type scissors jack (a small bottle type hydraulic jack would work just as well) under the front of the engine to raise the front wheel slightly, just take the load off the shock. I did NOT have to remove the GAS TANK, just the left and right side panels. Clymers says to remove the tank but I decided to try it WITHOUT removing the tank (pita) anyway and there was no problem. The Wilbers front unit does not have the top rebound adjuster like the showa and ohlins, but it mounts the same way. After you get the top and bottom mounts loose, the bolt on the bottom and nut on the top removed, raise the front wheel with the jack until the fork tubes are fully extended and the wheel is off the floor, then you can remove the front shock by pulling the bottom forward and out. Without the tupperware it's a 20 minute job, all torqued up.

The rear unit was much easier, just put the bike on the centerstand, remove the rear wheel if you want to, top and bottom bolts on the shock and it comes right out. The Wilbers unit has a hose mounted reservoir and mounting the reservoir on the frame tube amongst the elec wires was the only head scratcher moment.

Salud!!

lowndes said:

Hey, Bubbadozer1,

I replaced both front and rear OEM suspenders on my '99 R1100S a week ago with Wilbers. I used a screw type scissors jack (a small bottle type hydraulic jack would work just as well) under the front of the engine to raise the front wheel slightly, just take the load off the shock. I did NOT have to remove the GAS TANK, just the left and right side panels. Clymers says to remove the tank but I decided to try it WITHOUT removing the tank (pita) anyway and there was no problem. The Wilbers front unit does not have the top rebound adjuster like the showa and ohlins, but it mounts the same way. After you get the top and bottom mounts loose, the bolt on the bottom and nut on the top removed, raise the front wheel with the jack until the fork tubes are fully extended and the wheel is off the floor, then you can remove the front shock by pulling the bottom forward and out. Without the tupperware it's a 20 minute job, all torqued up.

The rear unit was much easier, just put the bike on the centerstand, remove the rear wheel if you want to, top and bottom bolts on the shock and it comes right out. The Wilbers unit has a hose mounted reservoir and mounting the reservoir on the frame tube amongst the elec wires was the only head scratcher moment.

Salud!!

Click to expand...

Wow! Very cool, thanks for that heads up. Will definitely try that way.
Cheers

lowndes,

Scooting the fuel tank back as opposed to removing completely, made the job easy and quick. Thanks again for the tip.

Cheers,

Scott