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'05 K1200LT Oil filter cover didn't seal

aufevermike

aufevermike

New member
This is the first time this has happened to me. I changed the oil in a Pep Boys parking lot in 112 degree shade. I admit I just wanted to get it done quickly and wasn't thorough on wiping the gasket to the oil filter cover. after about 600 miles I noticed a small oil leak from the cover. I torqued up the bolts but it still leaks. My question is if I remove the cover will all the oil drop out or just the amount of oil around the filter bath? ....2005 LT
 
All of it.

It's not a gasket, it's an o-ring. It's probably trashed at this point. Make sure you have a new one BEFORE you remove the cover: 11 13 1 460 425. $3.42





:dance:dance:dance
 
aufevermike said:
My question is if I remove the cover will all the oil drop out or just the amount of oil around the filter bath? ....2005 LT
Click to expand...

Yes, all the oil will come out.
Clean your oil pan good, or buy a new one and drain the oil.
Like the other Lee mentioned have a new o ring to use when you put the oil back in.
 
My 2004 K1200LT has 195,000 miles on it & I have never put a new o-ring on the filter cover. My 2000 K1200LT has 152,000 miles on it & I don't change the o-ring on it either. I suspect you didn't clean everything with solvent to make sure there was no kind of grit where the o-ring needs to seal.
 
Also the OEM bolts for the seal cover are aluminium and can easily be over torqued, over stretched, the hex head stripped out or broke off.
 
saddleman said:
Also the OEM bolts for the seal cover are aluminium and can easily be over torqued, over stretched, the hex head stripped out or broke off.
Click to expand...

Are you talking about the three bolts that hold the oil filter cover on??? :scratch

Those bolts are NOT aluminum, they are steel, just like on every brick motor since 1982.



You are fortunate to have not had the O-ring leak in that many miles.

While the O-ring will easily last several oil changes, it becomes a question of false savings to not change it every few years. After all, rubber exposed to heat gets hard and looses its ability to rebound to its original size and shape. We are only talking about $3 to insure not having an issue. Some would wait until they have an issue and then have to deal with it at an inopertune time (possibly like the OPs situation) to save $3.




:dance:dance:dance
 
Last edited:
I agree with saddleman, I have a 01 K1200rs and I twisted the head off one of the hex bolts, and so I changed them all to steel.
 
I've owned probably a dozen classic Ks: 100s, 1100s and 1200s. Never saw aluminum bolts on the oil filter cover on any of them.

And since the seal is an o-ring, you don't to squeeze the sh!t out of it like you would a paper gasket. So no reason to apply high torque (too lazy to look up the spec).

I also question the reply that all the oil will be lost if the cover plate is removed. Can't say I've tried it (always drain the oil pan first, then the filter cavity) but I always thought you'd lose no more than a 1/2 qt by taking the cover off. Anyone know for sure?
 
JeffDiCarlo said:
I've owned probably a dozen classic Ks: 100s, 1100s and 1200s. Never saw aluminum bolts on the oil filter cover on any of them.

And since the seal is an o-ring, you don't to squeeze the sh!t out of it like you would a paper gasket. So no reason to apply high torque (too lazy to look up the spec).

I also question the reply that all the oil will be lost if the cover plate is removed. Can't say I've tried it (always drain the oil pan first, then the filter cavity) but I always thought you'd lose no more than a 1/2 qt by taking the cover off. Anyone know for sure?
Click to expand...

When you open a four inch hole in the bottom of the oil pan, all the oil except that trapped in the filter runs out.
 
JeffDiCarlo said:
I also question the reply that all the oil will be lost if the cover plate is removed. Can't say I've tried it (always drain the oil pan first, then the filter cavity) but I always thought you'd lose no more than a 1/2 qt by taking the cover off. Anyone know for sure?
Click to expand...



I know FOR SURE.

That is how I do a hot oil change without burning my fingers or dropping the drain plug into the drainpan.


Remove the two bolts furthest away from you completely.

Then SLOWLY loosen the third bolt. You can control the flow and it will be directed AWAY from your hand. I also use this method to slightly lower the oil level when someone brings in a bike that is overfilled. You can drain as little as a teaspoon this way.

After all the oil that will come out has come out remove the drain plug. There will be maybe 1/4 cup of oil that will come out the drain plug. I used to neglect this step until I realized that this 1/4 cup of dirty oil was still in there. Much cleaner change when you do it HOT and finish draining through the drain plug!

There is no "filter cavity". It's just a flat cover plate on a flat oil pan bottom.



:dance:dance:dance
 
JeffDiCarlo said:
So why did BMW bother with a drain plug?
Click to expand...

Read my previous post. There is still about 1/4 cup of oil that won't drain out the filter hole. They actually COULD have deleted the plug if they had contoured the inside of the pan slightly differently, but that would lead to confusion among owners and non-dealership mechanics.




:dance:dance:dance
 
So the o-ring doesn't come with the filter any longer? I used to have several o-rings since I'd only change it every few oil changes. :dunno
 
CABNFVR said:
So the o-ring doesn't come with the filter any longer? I used to have several o-rings since I'd only change it every few oil changes. :dunno
Click to expand...

You can buy the filter by itself for $19.45 or buy the kit which includes the o-ring and washers for $25.75.
I didn't change the o-ring every oil change so I usually purchased the filter by inself.
 
Lee said:
You can buy the filter by itself for $19.45 or buy the kit which includes the o-ring and washers for $25.75.
I didn't change the o-ring every oil change so I usually purchased the filter by inself.
Click to expand...

No affiliation, but BeemerBoneYard is much cheaper and have kits that include the filter, crush washer, and o-ring. Plus they give an MOA discount.
 
beemer boneyard

my 2 cents here, Beemer Boneyard are the absolute best to get parts ,etc from! very fast on shipping and the pricing is great !!:wave
 
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