Goldwing owner

rwl1955 said:

....but was able to right it using the squat and back into the bike method. No damage because the bike had cylinder head and bag crash bars.

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I know I'm setting myself up for eating my own words but am determined to never drop this bike, at least not for any kind of the common issues riders have that end up leading to a drop. But I know all's it takes is a momentary lapse of attention in applying all the things we know about and have practiced in low speed handling on a top heavy bike. Doesn't really feel top heavy to me now but it did coming off F800GT last year.

Imagine this 'what if'. For the cost of full crash bars, that is for $750 you pay up front on Day 1 of ownership, someone signs a contract to give you one million $$ if you never drop your RT for every 100K miles you ride. Would you pay $750 for a shot at $1,000,000? I try to ride like this offer was real! I'm talking about low speed drops, not crashes per se.

You can learn a lot from other's mishaps. I never ever start to tip the bike's weight on to the side stand unless I've visually verified it's in it's fully extended position first and I learned that simple OCD trick from reading a couple guys' tales of woe from not incorporating this practice into their own routines. One was of a GW rider I think it was who went on a really long tour only to arrive back home in the garage, and commence to get off the bike without putting the side stand down at all! Something as simple as that rule, 'ALWAYS visually verify' eliminates this possibility.

Here's my bonehead mental error that led to my one drop on my F800GT and subsequent back injury from the other bonehead thing I did:

I have a 40' long gentle slope down to my garage. I have to turn 90 degrees when I get to the back of the garage in order to park perpendicular to the normal parking orientation. I had a habit of turning off the bike about 20' out of the garage and I would coast in neutral until it was time to turn 90 degrees at which point the steering is turned at hard lock barely moving. I always apply only the rear brake at the point I'm starting to turn. Well, this day was my first ride out w/ some new TCX boots that I bought for their tale toe box. I believe for all of those entrances done this way I never pulled the clutch in because I would be in neutral for the coast. On drop day what happened was I accidentally, I'm sure because of the new boots, put the bike in 1st gear as I must have been pre-loading the shifter by accident. This happened halfway thru my 90 degree turn and down she went in the blink of an eye. So, since then, the clutch is always pulled whenever I'm still moving in neutral. This eliminates the risk of an inadvertent shift. I hurt my back quite badly for the very first time in my then 62y when I tried to do the squat and back into the bike method. The bike was so flat on the ground that as I pushed w/ my legs I could not get it to pivot on the tire--I was just pushing the tire into the garage floor sideways. I started lifting with my arms at that point, it wouldn't budge, and then a 'pop!' and down I went in severe pain. It's bothering me right this second and it happened over 2y ago now. But at least now sciatic pain or weakness.

Other things I do is try to be disciplined to only park where drop risk factors are absent. It's hard to do this sometimes especially when with other riders who all decide to park in a certain place. I'll look and ride to wherever I need to to have a good entry and future exit even if I have to walk a little further. These sorts of commitments as well as standard good low speed handling tactics can all but eliminate drop risk.

gloucesterman said:

Hi Bob,
Norm again, my last check of normal back road riding returned mid 40's. If I top up past the filler neck I'm good for over 230 miles on a tank.
Later,
Norm
PS Crash bars are readily available. I'm using the BMW valve cover guards. Thinking of the Ilium rear crash bars.

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******
That's the setup I have on my 2016RT.

"I hurt my back quite badly for the very first time in my then 62y when I tried to do the squat and back into the bike method. The bike was so flat on the ground that as I pushed w/ my legs I could not get it to pivot on the tire--I was just pushing the tire into the garage floor sideways. I started lifting with my arms at that point, it wouldn't budge, and then a 'pop!' and down I went in severe pain. It's bothering me right this second and it happened over 2y ago now. But at least now sciatic pain or weakness. "
********
I'm also 62 yrs old and my back was bothering me for 2-3 wks after my bonehead move. I always check to make sure the kick stand is down before I start leaning the bike but I failed to check that it deployed before leaning. What really surprised me was that I couldn't recover and straighten the bike back up after I realized the stand wasn't down. I rode the bike down and rolled off of it so it didn't hit the ground, more like a soft landing.

What is all this talk about dropping RTs?

I have been riding BMW oil-head and wet-head RTs since 1996 and never dropped one. Perhaps some day I will. I have front and rear Ilium crash bars on them now, so a tip over could scratch the bars.

bmwdean said:

What is all this talk about dropping RTs?

I have been riding BMW oil-head and wet-head RTs since 1996 and never dropped one.

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There you go. Inspiration! I've skipped the full guards because I believe it's possible to avoid dropping the bike and you are living proof!

Jeff, give us your impression of how shifting has been impacted by changes in 2017 if you will. And...what kind of lean angles are you seeing in My Motorcycle now?

I've got to have a minor surgery tomorrow and when that is healed up I'm going to setup a ride. One of my concerns is pushing the bike out of the garage, I have not had to do that in years since the GW got a reverse. My wings have all been good reliable bikes but one of my pet peeves is the low gas mileage. My 200 mile trip the other day I averaged 29mpg keeping up with traffic at 75 and 80 or so. When my buddy on his K1600 gets in the high 40's. On a good day I can get 41.

I also like headlight modulators and run one on my bike to be seen. Its well over 100 degrees today so in no big hurry to get out. I'm a fan of LD Comfort and can stay cool if the humidity is low.

ncpbmw1953 said:

There you go. Inspiration! I've skipped the full guards because I believe it's possible to avoid dropping the bike and you are living proof!

Jeff, give us your impression of how shifting has been impacted by changes in 2017 if you will. And...what kind of lean angles are you seeing in My Motorcycle now?

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Careful.. "Livin' on luck" is rarely a good, long term plan. Jeff will find that out one day.

Sort of like "I don't need protective gear - been riding carefully for 30 years now and not a scratch."

'Luck' tends to favor the well-prepared.

Get guards. Even Jeff did!

bobw said:

I've got to have a minor surgery tomorrow and when that is healed up I'm going to setup a ride. One of my concerns is pushing the bike out of the garage, I have not had to do that in years since the GW got a reverse. My wings have all been good reliable bikes but one of my pet peeves is the low gas mileage. My 200 mile trip the other day I averaged 29mpg keeping up with traffic at 75 and 80 or so. When my buddy on his K1600 gets in the high 40's. On a good day I can get 41.

I also like headlight modulators and run one on my bike to be seen. Its well over 100 degrees today so in no big hurry to get out. I'm a fan of LD Comfort and can stay cool if the humidity is low.

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Moving the bike is not a problem and I'm a 200lb weakling, but have decent legs and good balance. As someone committing to nver doing a low speed drop I straddle the bike to move it any distance. My upper body strength is very poor despite my best efforts at changing that. I'm getting 49mph average and on a ~10K mile trip last year averaged 49.9 for the whole trip. RT LC is very easy to put on the center stand FWIW. RT LC has two seat options, low and high, and two positions for each seat, so depending on your inseam you should be able to find something that works. If you end up w/ a floor model ask to try both seats and they will surely swap in whichever stock seat works for you. Others will commence to replacing seats and screens but I found both oem versions excellent for me. I typically don't ride more than 540m in a day, usually more like 400, and make a habit of getting off the bike every 90+ miles. If you will be doing basic maintenance it's an easy machine to work, a real plus for boxer designs.

bobw said:

I've got to have a minor surgery tomorrow and when that is healed up I'm going to setup a ride. One of my concerns is pushing the bike out of the garage, I have not had to do that in years since the GW got a reverse. My wings have all been good reliable bikes but one of my pet peeves is the low gas mileage. My 200 mile trip the other day I averaged 29mpg keeping up with traffic at 75 and 80 or so. When my buddy on his K1600 gets in the high 40's. On a good day I can get 41.

I also like headlight modulators and run one on my bike to be seen. Its well over 100 degrees today so in no big hurry to get out. I'm a fan of LD Comfort and can stay cool if the humidity is low.

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Wow - 29 mpg is pretty dismal. I've never dropped down out of the '30's' - ever.

With superior weather protection and of course its weight, the mpg's of a Gold Wing is the price we pay. Engine and fuel delivery is top shelf technology - it's just a big-ass bike ......... and I love it!

RT over Wing

I own a 2005 Wing I bought new and put 53K on it (only vacation miles as I don't live in US). I've loved the bike, and still do, but I bought a 2012 R1200RT in Nov '14 and over the last couple of years I've come to love the RT. It does give back more vibration at lower rpms but when you're "on the pipe" that goes away. The bike is quick, much lighter, and I like the advanced electronics. I just put the Wing up for sale (I keep it on west coast) and I'm taking the 2012 rt out to the west in August and I've ordered a new 2018 wethead (red, yes glorious red!). I'll have on one on each coast whereas I had the Wing on the west coast before. I still love the Wing, it's a helluva bike, but the RT is a lot more exciting to ride. I have a really short inseam (27") so I immediately purchased crash bars for the saddlebags and engine cases. It does add to the cost but we all enjoy farkling. I've also added Clearwater Darla's and will to the new bike too, along with the crash guards.

I absolutely love the electric windshield and Honda should have put one on the Wing in 2001 when they introduced the 1800. They are behind the curve in my opinion.

Just my .02, like everyone else, but I do have the bikes.......

snotty54 said:

I own a 2005 Wing I bought new and put 53K on it (only vacation miles as I don't live in US). I've loved the bike, and still do, but I bought a 2012 R1200RT in Nov '14 and over the last couple of years I've come to love the RT. It does give back more vibration at lower rpms but when you're "on the pipe" that goes away. The bike is quick, much lighter, and I like the advanced electronics. I just put the Wing up for sale (I keep it on west coast) and I'm taking the 2012 rt out to the west in August and I've ordered a new 2018 wethead (red, yes glorious red!). I'll have on one on each coast whereas I had the Wing on the west coast before. I still love the Wing, it's a helluva bike, but the RT is a lot more exciting to ride. I have a really short inseam (27") so I immediately purchased crash bars for the saddlebags and engine cases. It does add to the cost but we all enjoy farkling. I've also added Clearwater Darla's and will to the new bike too, along with the crash guards.

I absolutely love the electric windshield and Honda should have put one on the Wing in 2001 when they introduced the 1800. They are behind the curve in my opinion.

Just my .02, like everyone else, but I do have the bikes.......

View attachment 62777

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I don't want your bikes .............I want to be able to file a 1040 form commiserate with yours!

Seriously - glad you enjoyed the Wing, and you're right - couple of things need improvement. For example, ABS should be standard, and I'd prefer 1st gear a little more forgiving.

We part ways on the electric windshield issue - so much hassle, repairs and expense avoided with the stationary (yet height-adjustable) shield on the Wing. Don't consider that a negative.

Enjoy both coasts and the Caymans!

snotty54 said:

I absolutely love the electric windshield and Honda should have put one on the Wing in 2001

View attachment 62777

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I 2nd the motion--it is so nice to be able to move it and I do, frequently: great in rain to clear the visor, put it down when the temp warms or for zipping up the twisties, up as needed for everything else.

Gold Wings

No doubt about it, the Wing is a magnificent bike. I have had Wings for the past 15 years but I will be 71 in a month and that 300 pounds makes a tremendous difference, along with about 15 more horsepower. Not so much difference in picking it up, but in it not falling over to begin with. Bikes are their unwieldy worst when almost stopped, travelling slowly or starting to move. Add to that a passenger and maybe a trailer and you get what I'm saying.

I have around 2500 kms on my 2017 R1200GS so far and I absolutely love it. No more trailer, but that's OK. Believe it or not, the GS actually is a smoother riding bike than any of the Gold Wings. Honda has never ironed out their suspension issues and guys are spending thousands of dollars on after market suspension such Traxxion to get it right to say nothing of the scalloped tires.

My only wish is that I hadn't switched brands sooner, but then again, the futuristic R1200GS had not been made yet. My only complaint is the GS seat, which I refer to as a board but my wife refers to as a building block. My new Corbin will be here next week which should resolve that issue.

Make the switch. You will not regret it.

What's a 1040?

greenwald said:

I don't want your bikes .............I want to be able to file a 1040 form commiserate with yours!

Seriously - glad you enjoyed the Wing, and you're right - couple of things need improvement. For example, ABS should be standard, and I'd prefer 1st gear a little more forgiving.

We part ways on the electric windshield issue - so much hassle, repairs and expense avoided with the stationary (yet height-adjustable) shield on the Wing. Don't consider that a negative.

Enjoy both coasts and the Caymans!

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Just kiddin' very familiar with it. Actually, I'm just a worker bee but over the last 20 years I've been able to jones into two bikes, selling a used one, buying a used one. At 69 I'm buying a new one and damn, how long should I wait to have fun?!! This'll be the 2nd new one, the 1st was the Wing in 2005. If I didn't like the rt better I'd keep the Wing, helluva bike. It is hard to ignore creature comforts and electronic marvels like great sound, and the safety features like track control, abs pro (in the curves too) automatic suspension constantly adjusting to the road, etc., that the RT offers.

You and another posted remarked that the electric windshield was a maintenance hassle but I've never had a prob with it. Mine seems to work very well and I'd never go back to manual if I could avoid it.

Scott

I had a 2006 Goldwing that I put 155k miles on traveling the country. I kept waiting for Honda to update the wing and finally gave up and purchased a new 2014 R1200RT. The wing is a great touring bike but I wish I would have made the move sooner. Take a test ride and be ready to write a check.

What concerns me is the operating cost. I'm hearing $600 for the first service. I'm assuming I'm allowed to do my own oil changes without voiding my warranty.. and how often do you have to check the valves and the cost for that?

When I heal up from the surgery I just had I'm planning on taking one for a test ride.
Bob

bobw said:

What concerns me is the operating cost. I'm hearing $600 for the first service. I'm assuming I'm allowed to do my own oil changes without voiding my warranty.. and how often do you have to check the valves and the cost for that?

When I heal up from the surgery I just had I'm planning on taking one for a test ride.
Bob

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That's not a can of worms you're about to open - it's a 55 gallon drum.

How you service a modern BMW is not 'universal' - it's a personal choice. Oil changes within specs will not void your warranty. But much of the other items needing attention are more involved than some DIY's make it sound.

They are complex and labor-expensive bikes. Comes with the desire to own one.

Your choice.

greenwald said:

That's not a can of worms you're about to open - it's a 55 gallon drum.

How you service a modern BMW is not 'universal' - it's a personal choice. Oil changes within specs will not void your warranty. But much of the other items needing attention are more involved than some DIY's make it sound.

They are complex and labor-expensive bikes. Comes with the desire to own one.

Your choice.

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I don't know it doesn't seem bad to me. I do the oil and filter changes, air filter, FD oil and the rest goes to the shop. So really after the 600m it's every 12K miles for the rest of the stuff. My 24K service was $304, but again I did the oils and filters changes so add another $90 or so for those parts. The dealer did brake fluid change, valve check (all perfect), plugs, and run the computer routine to check for fault codes and whatever else they do. I forget what the 600m service was but it was nowhere near $600.

The routine maintenance on the liquid cooled boxers is fairly simple. Checking valves is not difficult although making an adjustment is probably more than many DYIers will want to tackle. I have a Yamaha FJR and Super Tenere and my GSA is easier to maintain and the cost of filters is about the same.

greenwald said:

... We part ways on the electric windshield issue - so much hassle, repairs and expense avoided with the stationary (yet height-adjustable) shield on the Wing...

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Kevin, I've had 3 RTs and have a lot of friends who've been running RTs for many many years and never run across anyone, who has had the level of problems you've unfortunately had to endure the the windscreen. I'm presuming your experience has been the same, that your situation is the exception to the rule and not common.

I just took a GS from Denver to Salt Lake City and back to attend the MOA Rally and one of the few areas that I disliked on the GS was the manual windscreen. For me, the RT windscreen is far more useful and desirable, especially as mine, and the dozen or so others that I'm aware of, have been trouble free. I've been on this Forum for around 5-years now and don't recall seeing a sufficient frequency of post to even give me any concern about it.

I appreciate that your experience would be frustrating, to say the least, but a relatively isolated case should not be used to portray the character of a bike. I've had a GW in the past and like my 2004 and 2014 RTs, it was virtually trouble free, but not 100%.

Some folks have had real reliability issues with their GW, but very few. Some folks have had reliability issues with their RT, but not a lot, definitely more issues with the RTs than the GWs, but (again, for me) they are also a more engaging bike and a more rewarding one. Something like a "more engaging and more rewarding partner" - they may be somewhat higher maintenance. ;-)

What I want in my touring bike is something that I ride not sit in, that is quick, nimble and efficient. I prefer secondary highways and mountain roads to super slab and when I put all that together, the RT works best for me. That isn't true for everyone, each of us has our own mix of what we like and how much.

bobw said:

What concerns me is the operating cost. I'm hearing $600 for the first service. I'm assuming I'm allowed to do my own oil changes without voiding my warranty.. and how often do you have to check the valves and the cost for that?

When I heal up from the surgery I just had I'm planning on taking one for a test ride.
Bob

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As Kevin and others have said, no problem with oil changes just need to document it properly and keep reciepts.

There is a bit more "routine" maintenance required, but it is quite straightforward and aside from the initial 600 Mile maintenance and the first annual maintenance the schedule is simple:

Every 6,000 miles or year: Change engine oil and filter (plus normal checks - brake pad wear, lights, tires, coolant level, etc.)

Every 12,000 miles: Change engine and diff oil, change spark plugs and air filter, check valve clearance (many don't require adjustment) and the normal checks

Every two years: change brake fluid

This idea that people spread about heavy maintenance is not borne out in reality. Yes, there are some RTs that have more issues than others, just as is the case with GWs. Will and RT require more maintenance and expenditure than a GW? A bit, but not a ton. Both will typically go 250,000+ miles without issue if properly maintained although you may be stretching the final-drive lifespan on the RT but the Wethead is too new to know for sure. The big Harleys (Road King, Electra Glide and bigger) are also good for high mileage when properly maintained, but more prone to service issues than either the RT or the GW.

Having ridden all three/four, for me, the RT has more boxes checked off on what I want, than anything else. While a GW can be made to carve corners by a good rider, and it masks it's H-D type weight very well and carries it nice and low, that mass is still there and is not welcome outside the super-slab which I avoid (don't care to simply drone along in an almost mindless, almost staight, line). As for weather protection, the initial reviews of the RTW tended to say that the weather protection of the new RT was superior to anything else out there. I haven't ridden a GW in about 10 years so I can't say, other than that the RT does work well - better than most but nowhere near as good as a car. ;-)

I also prefer the slight roughness (character for me) of the boxer engine. YMMV