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Goldwing owner

bobw

New member
I've been riding Goldwings since 1976 and my ride now is a 2008 wing with 114,000 miles and its running good. I'm 76 and the wing is getting heaver so I have been looking at the R1200 RT. My concern is this going to be as smooth as wing or does it buzz at different speeds. At 300 pounds lighter I should be able to pick it up. I'm used to getting 22,000 miles on a front tire and 15,000 on a year tire.
Has anyone here made the change from the wing?
Bob
 
I too have a 2008 GL1800 and while I've never been on an RT, I would like to point one thing out; if you drop the wing, it will not go over far because of the tip over bars, whereas most any other bike will go over MUCH, MUCH further.
 
Howdy,
I spent 100k on my 2004 GL. Also had a GL1000, GL1100 and GL1200, each with a 100k on them. You need to decide which year RT you want. The water cooled is worlds away from the years mentioned in the links. Torque is abundant, much smoother with a counter balance but nothing I've ridden is as smooth as a GL1800, and like you said at 600 pounds it is quite the handler. I bought a used 2014, OEM tires where toast at 6K. Hoping the new Dunlop Road Smart 3's are better.
Later,
Norm
 
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Norm I'm looking at the 2017 but it will be a week or so before I can do a test ride. I understand the engines are different and that will change my riding style for what gear I need to be in.
Bob
 
Hi,
I tend to be more concerned with RPM than what gear I'm in. My RT's engine is quite comfortable in the 3K to 4K range.
Later,
Norm
 
I love Goldwings but a few things keep me on my RT. First , the mpg, my RT gets great mileage, usually low 50's loaded on a trip. Second, the weight, several hundred pounds lighter. Third, the adjustable windscreen that I can't live without. Just my 2 cents......
 
I've been riding Goldwings since 1976 and my ride now is a 2008 wing with 114,000 miles and its running good. I'm 76 and the wing is getting heaver so I have been looking at the R1200 RT. My concern is this going to be as smooth as wing or does it buzz at different speeds. At 300 pounds lighter I should be able to pick it up. I'm used to getting 22,000 miles on a front tire and 15,000 on a year tire.
Has anyone here made the change from the wing?
Bob

Apples and oranges - always an interesting debate.

Spent 7 years and 77k miles on an R1200RT (bought new). Also have a 2012 Wing (bought new) approaching 50k miles. A few thoughts:

While the RT is 300 lbs. lighter than the Wing, it is more 'top-heavy' due to a higher frame and high placement of a HUGE gas tank. Tip-overs were more likely for me with the BMW than the Honda. Like someone has already commented, if and when the Wing leans over, it stops on the massive protective bars (front and rear) and damage is usually ZERO.

When an RT flops over, side cases scratched and possible damage to the magnesium cylinder head - very costly!

You will definitely notice some vibration ("buzzing") and less linear acceleration with the boxer as opposed to the velvet-smooth in-line six. Again - riding an German apple compared to a Japanese orange - there will be differences.

As for windshield adjustability, 7 different positions on the Wing - just not motorized. Once you've paid for a new shield motor on the RT or replaced some or all (4) of the windshield brackets on the RT (been there - done that), you'll appreciate the mechanical simplicity of how windshield heights can be adjusted on the Honda.

You will also have a heightened (more awkward?) mounting and exit height with the RT, but admittedly greater ground clearance. I've run "The Dragon" multiple times with both bikes - RT more nimble for me, though a local Wing ("Yellow Wolf") owns the best run-time on those 318 curves.

Tire mileage with the RT is about half that of the Wing - typical for me to get 10-14,000 out of a set of DUNLOP Elite 3's on the Gold Wing, and brake pads going 40,000. Got half that on the BMW with those components. But a big factor there is how you ride.

Then again, the BMW will get much better mileage and you fill up less often due to its cavernous fuel tank. Though the Gold Wing feels as if it's shed 300 pounds the minute I get it over a walking pace and it becomes comfortably maneuverable, the weight penalty shows up at the pumps - about 35-38 mpg.

Both bikes have a unique niche in the motorcycling community. But an uneven comparison. The RT is a top-heavy sport/touring machine that is highly maneuverable and fun to play on - when the FD, fuel strip, drive shaft, headlights, windshield supports and electronics are not taking a dump. I never made it thru a single multi-day tour without something malfunctioning. A passenger and too much gear will doom the FD to failure (headed for number 3 when I traded it in).

The Wing carries any passenger and generous cargo without so much as a whimper, has superior weather protection and all-day comfort and a reliability factor that BMW (including the K1600GTL's) doesn't even come close to matching. Truly, the gold standard of big touring bikes.

So far on the Wing, literally nothing has broken or malfunctioned. I spoke with Honda engineers at the track (Road America) two years ago - all critical components of a Gold Wing engineered for 300,000 miles. Not something you'll see mentioned in an ad copy, but beginning to believe them!

Bottom line:

Ride whatever makes you smile and what your physicality can handle. Test ride the RT (I too would recommend the more recent versions) and if you like it, buy it. :dunno
 
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Thanks greenwald, that don't sound very encouraging for the RT and it looks like I would need crash guards to be safe but from what I see looking at pictures most don't have them.
Bob
 
Thanks greenwald, that don't sound very encouraging for the RT and it looks like I would need crash guards to be safe but from what I see looking at pictures most don't have them.
Bob

In all fairness, crash guards available for the RT's. :thumb

As would be an Extended Warranty plan. :scratch
 
Have you considered a K1600GTL? I would place it between the RT and the Wing in every category except performance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
When an RT flops over, side cases scratched and possible damage to the magnesium cylinder head - very costly!

You will definitely notice some vibration ("buzzing") Once you've paid for a new shield motor on the RT or replaced some or all (4) of the windshield brackets on the RT (been there - done that) I never made it thru a single multi-day tour without something malfunctioning. A passenger and too much gear will doom the FD to failure (headed for number 3 when I traded it in).

Great overview Kevin! I have a '16 RT, ride 1-up almost always, have 24.6K miles, and haven't had a single issue including on a 9,163m (but who's counting) x-country and into Canada trip, and several shorter trips, not even a blown headlight bulb, FWIW. Changes were made to some components in the final drive and I would argue it's a bit early to say how well they will hold up, but I bet you're spot on with 'a passenger and too much gear....' will certainly help manifest weaknesses. It seems u-joints are a vulnerability especially if in heavy recurrent rains, pressure washing around the boot, or riding thru creeks (I did once near the BRP when Nav V directed me thru one!). For general reliability since the initial debut with the shock recall it seems overall the RT LC models (14+) have been quite reliable, quite apparently not like GW's are, but certainly more than great for touring. I don't consider the vibration quality to be 'buzzy', and find it to be a rather pleasant low-pitched thrum, though did install HVMP 17oz bar ends to minimize the amplitude. Fantastic bike, though no way I could pick it up I'm sure. I put BMW valve cover guards and their bumpers for side case protection.
 
Great overview Kevin! I have a '16 RT, ride 1-up almost always, have 24.6K miles, and haven't had a single issue including on a 9,163m (but who's counting) x-country and into Canada trip, and several shorter trips, not even a blown headlight bulb, FWIW. Changes were made to some components in the final drive and I would argue it's a bit early to say how well they will hold up, but I bet you're spot on with 'a passenger and too much gear....' will certainly help manifest weaknesses. It seems u-joints are a vulnerability especially if in heavy recurrent rains, pressure washing around the boot, or riding thru creeks (I did once near the BRP when Nav V directed me thru one!). For general reliability since the initial debut with the shock recall it seems overall the RT LC models (14+) have been quite reliable, quite apparently not like GW's are, but certainly more than great for touring. I don't consider the vibration quality to be 'buzzy', and find it to be a rather pleasant low-pitched thrum, though did install HVMP 17oz bar ends to minimize the amplitude. Fantastic bike, though no way I could pick it up I'm sure. I put BMW valve cover guards and their bumpers for side case protection.

Good to hear. May you have many, many trouble-free miles ahead of you. :thumb

I agree that a new or a more current model would be the RT of choice for this rider. Hope he settles in on whatever bike he can handle and likes. :dance
 
I went from a 1600gt to a 15 RT have never looked back, RT is much lighter than 1600 and has excellent handling as did the 1600
Anybody buying a R series bike, would be doing themselves a great favor by purchasing cylinder head guards, I personally like the machine art moto rubber guards
Side case protection kit from bmw helps protect the panniers
All that said my 77 year old buddy that rides with us, would never trade his wing
 
How's your fuel mileage?
*******
I own a 2016RT w/6000mi and recently checked, 48MPG. If you purchase buy/install the Ilium cylinder head and saddlebag crash bars. Bought a 2000RT in 2010 and rode it until 2015 and no problems w/the windshield. Dropped my 2013 last summer(deployed the kickstand but didn't push out far enough and it snapped back and I failed to double check before leaning bike) but was able to right it using the squat and back into the bike method. No damage because the bike had cylinder head and bag crash bars.
http://www.iliumworks.com/R_1200_RTW_(WATER___LIQUID_COOLED).cfm
 
Hi Bob,
Norm again, my last check of normal back road riding returned mid 40's. If I top up past the filler neck I'm good for over 230 miles on a tank.
Later,
Norm
PS Crash bars are readily available. I'm using the BMW valve cover guards. Thinking of the Ilium rear crash bars.
 
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