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Thread: R1100 belt noise

  1. #16
    Registered User K7GLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    From the BMW service bulletin 12 001 02 (001)
    Jan '02
    Exactly what I was looking for - makes sense now.

    Thanks!
    - Glenn
    2000 R1100RT (current)
    1982 R100RT (traded)
    1970 BSA A65T, 1969 Honda CB350, 1967 Honda CB160 all fondly remembered

  2. #17
    Registered User K7GLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntonLargiader View Post
    Here's what I thought was a very oddball, one-off cause for an alternator rattle but immediately after I posted it (over a decade ago) someone thanked me for solving their problem:

    http://largiader.com/articles/altrattle.html
    Yup - that was the problem all right...the top screw was loose, even with the nut tight. It wasn't even ungodly difficult to get at (tank off, of course). Rattle gone.

    Vielen Dank!

    By the way, as noted by others, it's impossible to get a socket, even with a U-joint, on the top alternator nut due to the shock absorber. However, the open end of a 13mm combination wrench comfortably accommodates a 1/2" socket drive. I put a 3/8"-to-1/2" adapter on the torque wrench, fit it into the open end of the 13mm combo, reduced the torque setting to adjust for the increased length, made certain the wrenches were collinear, and it torqued very easily from the right side using the box end.
    - Glenn
    2000 R1100RT (current)
    1982 R100RT (traded)
    1970 BSA A65T, 1969 Honda CB350, 1967 Honda CB160 all fondly remembered

  3. #18
    Cool. Maybe I should combine that article with the regular alternator adjustment one.
    Anton Largiader 72724
    Tech articles
    Virginia Motorrad Werkstatt BMW motorcycle service and repair in central Virginia

  4. #19
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K7GLE View Post
    Yup - that was the problem all right...the top screw was loose, even with the nut tight. It wasn't even ungodly difficult to get at (tank off, of course). Rattle gone.

    Vielen Dank!

    By the way, as noted by others, it's impossible to get a socket, even with a U-joint, on the top alternator nut due to the shock absorber. However, the open end of a 13mm combination wrench comfortably accommodates a 1/2" socket drive. I put a 3/8"-to-1/2" adapter on the torque wrench, fit it into the open end of the 13mm combo, reduced the torque setting to adjust for the increased length, made certain the wrenches were collinear, and it torqued very easily from the right side using the box end.
    That's a really neat idea.
    So factory torque is 8 Nm. How much did you reduce it to compensate for the length of the wrench?
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  5. #20
    Registered User K7GLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by happy wanderer View Post
    So factory torque is 8 Nm. How much did you reduce it to compensate for the length of the wrench?
    I didn't need to use an extended on the adjuster nut because I could reach it easily. The top of the front shock doesn't allow enough clearance to get a socket on the top "fastener" nut that wants 20 Nm.

    The formula is:

    Indicated Torque (i.e. wrench setting) = Required Torque at the nut x (wrench length / (total lever arm)) where total lever arm = wrench length + extension length

    I needed 20 Nm, my torque wrench measures 12" from center of 3/8" drive to center of handle( the center of where you grab it, not 1/2 the length of the wrench)
    My combination wrench measures exactly 6" from center of box end to center of open end so the lever arm is 12+6=18

    So: Wrench setting = 20 x (12/18) = 13.3 Nm

    (Check: Torque setting should be less than actual torque applied because lever arm is longer)

    Note that this only works if the combination wrench and the torque wrench are lined up. If the combination is at an angle to the torque wrench the effective length of the total lever arm is reduced, reducing the amount of torque applied at the nut.


    _______/ <-- cheesy ASCII illustration of 12" torque wrench with 6" combo wrench at angle
    |----------| <-- effective length of lever arm now less than full 12" + 6"

    If you know the offset angle you can calculate the new wrench setting by multiplying the length of the extension by the cosine of the angle, so if the combo is 60 degrees out of line with the torque wrench (cosine = 0.5) , you add 3" rather than 6", and set the wrench at 20 x (12/15) = 16 Nm to get 20 Nm at the nut. (Of course you could also just measure it along the line of the torque wrench, but where's the fun in that?)
    - Glenn
    2000 R1100RT (current)
    1982 R100RT (traded)
    1970 BSA A65T, 1969 Honda CB350, 1967 Honda CB160 all fondly remembered

  6. #21
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Or just set the torque wrench and the extension at a 90degree angle and no calculation or adjustment is required--just use the normal torque value.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST -- 1988 R100GS "Bee"-- 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C -- 2010 K1300GT
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    From the BMW service bulletin 12 001 02 (001)
    Jan '02
    Weird. On my '04RT I just tighten the belt so it only rotates about 50% at its midway point and I've never had an issue.

    But what do I know? LOL

  8. #23
    Registered User K7GLE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTRider View Post
    Or just set the torque wrench and the extension at a 90degree angle and no calculation or adjustment is required--just use the normal torque value.

    Best,
    DG
    Yep, if you could get all the apparatus to fit...I couldn't.
    - Glenn
    2000 R1100RT (current)
    1982 R100RT (traded)
    1970 BSA A65T, 1969 Honda CB350, 1967 Honda CB160 all fondly remembered

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