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05 R 1150 R won't start.

Ctrod

Rodney Aiken
I have an 2005 R1150R with about 42,000 miles that I just serviced. Gas tank off to change the battery, all new fluids and air filter. I checked the valves which were fine and I didn't touch and changed the alternate belt.
I put the bike back together and took it for a test ride, about 10 miles of back roads and the bike ran fine.
About a week later I take the bike out, starts right up and go about a mile to get gas. From there I swing onto the highway and just as I get out to the left lane, the bike just shuts off, about 3 miles total. I trailer it home. The bike turns over, there is spark but I put new plugs in anyway, I pull one of the injector and spray it into a rag and there's gas. Interestingly I did get a pop from the exhaust when I had 1 of the injectors out.
So, All the light on the dash come on when I turn the key on. I can hear the fuel pump running. There is spark and gas. It doesn't look like any of the wires are chaffed or broken. I even turned all the light off in the garage and looked for a spark or arch while turning it over. I've checked all the wire connections I could find and they're all tight.

Any idea?
 
Behind the lower pulley is a slotted cup (item 4) that is keyed to the crankshaft. It determines spark and fuel timing in conjunction with the hall sensor plate (item 2)
If that has slipped (lower pulley coming loose) it would match your symptoms.
Check that the lower pulley is tight. (spec is 50nm)
 

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I removed the cover and the alternator belt was shredded and some of it was behind the pulley.
I'll get a new belt tomorrow and hopefully will solve the problem.
Should the bike start with out the alternator belt?
 
I removed the cover and the alternator belt was shredded and some of it was behind the pulley.
I'll get a new belt tomorrow and hopefully will solve the problem.
Should the bike start with out the alternator belt?

Yes it should start and run without the belt, but - ! Usually if a belt shreds and some goes behind the pulley it damages the Hall Effect Sensor (HES) It is possible the HES is bent but more likely it is broken or wires are torn loose. Without seeing the HES I can't predict if it can be fixed, but I doubt it.
 
I removed the cover and the alternator belt was shredded and some of it was behind the pulley.
I'll get a new belt tomorrow and hopefully will solve the problem.
Should the bike start with out the alternator belt?

The bike does not need the alternator belt to start/run
Post some pictures of the sensor plate
Also post some pictures of the cup. The key may have jumped out of the crank notch

The big question is why did a new belt shred? Was it installed/adjusted properly?
 
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Behind the lower pulley is a slotted cup (item 4) that is keyed to the crankshaft. It determines spark and fuel timing in conjunction with the hall sensor plate (item 2)
If that has slipped (lower pulley coming loose) it would match your symptoms.
Check that the lower pulley is tight. (spec is 50nm)
Thanks for the help. This got me going in the right direction.
The belt had broken and went behind the pulley and broken off one of the censers on the hall censer. So I was getting some spark.
This was all caused because when I changed the alt belt I used the same procedure as on my 1200 and just spooned it on not realizing there is an adjustment. I must have put a small cut in the belt which broke and took out the hall censer right before a long weekend and one of the few weekend I have off for the next few month.
Censor plus over night cost to have the bike ready for the weekend, $424.00, ouch. An expensive lesson.
 
Thanks for the help. This got me going in the right direction.
The belt had broken and went behind the pulley and broken off one of the censers on the hall censer. So I was getting some spark.
This was all caused because when I changed the alt belt I used the same procedure as on my 1200 and just spooned it on not realizing there is an adjustment. I must have put a small cut in the belt which broke and took out the hall censer right before a long weekend and one of the few weekend I have off for the next few month.
Censor plus over night cost to have the bike ready for the weekend, $424.00, ouch. An expensive lesson.

Ouch that hurts.
FYI the top sensor controls spark, the bottom injection pulse
 
Thanks for the help. This got me going in the right direction.
The belt had broken and went behind the pulley and broken off one of the censers on the hall censer. So I was getting some spark.
This was all caused because when I changed the alt belt I used the same procedure as on my 1200 and just spooned it on not realizing there is an adjustment. I must have put a small cut in the belt which broke and took out the hall censer right before a long weekend and one of the few weekend I have off for the next few month.
Censor plus over night cost to have the bike ready for the weekend, $424.00, ouch. An expensive lesson.

If it looks like the hall sensor assembly can be fixed, GSAddict is your man and if anyone can fix it, he can. If not you don't have to pay full fare economy. $424.00, ouch.?? :bolt

Get you this one: http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/BOSCH-Hall-Effect-Sensor-R1150-12-11-7-673-277-p/boignsen-r277.htm

OR this one:
http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boignsen-r137edl.htm
 
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