Stuck Ignition Key - Help!

The ignition key on my '99 R1100RT is stuck in the on position and I cannot get it to turn off or pull out; the lights are on and the battery will probably run down soon since it has been nearly an hour now. I have tried squirting graphite and jiggling, and squirting CRC 2-26 and jiggling. No results still stuck. My spare key as well as my house keys are in the trunk, cannot get into that without the key, which won't come out of the ignition. Any suggestions how to proceed and also where is the ground to disconnect the battery? My manual is in the trunk also. This is a relatively new to me bike so I haven't had to do anything to it yet to learn where everything is. Thanks for any help.

Carl

Would try moving the handlebars back and forth a bit. That and pulling and pushing the key up and down a bit is about all I could suggest.

I would also try driving it around a bit. Charge the battery a bit that way and maybe jiggle the key loose.


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Welcome to the forum Carl!
Check at the bottom of this thread in the similar threads and I think you will find some help.
Gary

I drove the bike home about 25 miles after I discovered I couldn't turn the key off. Used the kill switch when I got home. I've jiggled pushed pulled moved the handle bars, every which way possible for close to an hour now, plus used lubricants and nothing works yet. I haven't had to take off the body panels so I'm not even sure where to disconnect the battery.

Oh, and thanks for the welcome Omega Man. I've been a MOA member off and on since mid-1990's. Have had an R90/6 since 1995. Just haven't posted anything in years.

Unfortunately I don't believe you'll be able to remove the body panels without the key needed to remove the seat. If you could remove the seat I think you can get to the negative battery post on the left side of the bike.

Yeah putting the spare key in the trunk was pretty dumb. Battery is now dead anyway. Can't get trunk open, can't get seat off, therefore can't get body panels off. Guess I now have a project, trying to accomplish something with as little damage as possible. Well, at least I have the old faithful airhead to ride till I figure this out.

You may find it's ok tomorrow Carl. Where are you located? I do a fair amount of lock work along with other 'tings
Perhaps someone near you can help.
Gary

I'm in E. Tennessee, but thanks for the offer. I'm still unable to get the key to turn, so I'll contact a locksmith this week and see if he has any ideas. Maybe he can at least pick the lock on the luggage so I can get the spare key and my house keys and cameras out of it. We'll see how it goes. It occurred to me to ask whether the battery can be charged through one of the accessory outlets on these bikes, or does one have to take off the body panels to access the battery to charge it? Whenever I get the key out or turned off of course....Should have done more educating myself before riding off into the blue I guess.

csexton said:

I'm in E. Tennessee, but thanks for the offer. I'm still unable to get the key to turn, so I'll contact a locksmith this week and see if he has any ideas. Maybe he can at least pick the lock on the luggage so I can get the spare key and my house keys and cameras out of it. We'll see how it goes. It occurred to me to ask whether the battery can be charged through one of the accessory outlets on these bikes, or does one have to take off the body panels to access the battery to charge it? Whenever I get the key out or turned off of course....Should have done more educating myself before riding off into the blue I guess.

Click to expand...

With the BMW specific plug (also used by John Deere) you can charge through the outlet probably located on the left side of the bike near the starter. I have an R1100RS and that's where mine is.

Best of luck. That's a mess.

My 2000 R1100T has "always live" access to battery power at that John Deere receptacle on the left side of the panel left of the windscreen. You will have to limit the charging current to 10 amps as I'm certain there is a fuse in the circuit.

Is your key stuck but otherwise intact? or is it broken off?

The lock barrel can be removed with the key in the on position.
Then you can use a blade screwdriver to turn off the switch below it
Once the lock barrel is out the key should pull out and you can use to open your cases etc.

Removal procedure from BMW OE manual (shown for a GS but the lock assemblies are the same as yours)

Removing and installing lock barrel

• Key in ON position/press in keeper (2) with a stiff
wire or similar.
• Pull out lock barrel with key.
• Lubricate the new lock barrel with Shell
• Retinax A.
• Insert the lock barrel with the key in the ON position.
• Press lock barrel down until keeper engages.

nrpeterson: thanks, good info. The key is stuck and won't turn, and may or may not be broken within the cylinder. The side-to-side and up-down play seem to be excessive at this point, but then I never really gave it a lot of thought or observation before this so can't really say for sure. I'm pretty sure the key is not removable in the on position, so if it were broken somewhere inside I still might not be able to remove it. Will try to get a locksmith out to look at it sometime this week, probably Friday because I work Mon-Thurs and to get them to come out after I get off work would probably cost twice as much.

GSAddict: thanks so much for that specific information. I don't see how to get the lock cylinder out without removing some bodywork (correct me if I'm wrong on that) so will have to at least get the trunk open to get the spare key out to take the seat off etc. to do that. But that will certainly be helpful details when I get to that stage. Appreciate it!

Carl

Edit: Of course I need a manual and the one for the R90 doesn't help. So, is the large part the handlebars attach to and the lock cylinder is in, removable without removing body panels, so the cylinder could be removed as you describe?

csexton said:

nrpeterson: thanks, good info. The key is stuck and won't turn, and may or may not be broken within the cylinder. The side-to-side and up-down play seem to be excessive at this point, but then I never really gave it a lot of thought or observation before this so can't really say for sure. I'm pretty sure the key is not removable in the on position, so if it were broken somewhere inside I still might not be able to remove it. Will try to get a locksmith out to look at it sometime this week, probably Friday because I work Mon-Thurs and to get them to come out after I get off work would probably cost twice as much.

GSAddict: thanks so much for that specific information. I don't see how to get the lock cylinder out without removing some bodywork (correct me if I'm wrong on that) so will have to at least get the trunk open to get the spare key out to take the seat off etc. to do that. But that will certainly be helpful details when I get to that stage. Appreciate it!

Carl

Click to expand...

You should be able to get at the front of the switch without removing any bodywork.

I guess I was editing my question while you replied. Are you saying that the lock cylinder (barrel) can be removed by depressing the detent (2) without removing that handlebar/steering part from the forks? Just like insert a paperclip or something to depress it and then remove?
Or do you have to remove that part to access it?

csexton said:

I guess I was editing my question while you replied. Are you saying that the lock cylinder (barrel) can be removed by depressing the detent (2) without removing that handlebar/steering part from the forks? Just like insert a paperclip or something to depress it and then remove?
Or do you have to remove that part to access it?

Click to expand...

Yes. I use a jewelers blade screwdriver oriented vertically.

I just took some shots of one I have in stock. Hope this helps.

Thanks, I'll give that a try before calling the locksmith. Appreciate the response!

csexton said:

Thanks, I'll give that a try before calling the locksmith. Appreciate the response!

Click to expand...

Post edited with pictures

Well some good news and some bad news. Following your instructions I inserted jewelers screwdriver into the opening and pressed what I assume to be the little ball bearing keeper, but the lock cylinder did not budge nor would the key turn. The good news however, is that the key did finally pull out! So, I was able to open the top case and side pocket to get out keys etc including my checkbook and cameras, that I really needed. After carefully cleaning and examining the key I found no obvious damage or rough spots, so partially inserted it back into the slot, and there is something catching the key about 1/4 of the way in. So I did not try to insert it all the way, I'm afraid it would get stuck again. I guess I will consult with a locksmith this weekend and see where to go from here. I can't thank you enough for such specific information on the issue. My lock is exactly like the one you pictured. Members like you and everyone who shared information on this issue are priceless. Hopefully an opportunity will come up in the future for me to contribute something useful as well. Carl

I can recommend Tri-Flow as a lock lubricant. It looks like a wafer lock and in most locks, a bit of lube really makes the difference between never having lock trouble and wearing one out.
OM