No Power Powerlet.

cockneylad · May 2, 2017

2014 1200 GS
Plugged in a new Powerlet to USB adapter but no power from the Powerlet ? checked around online and if what I read (somewhere?) is correct the computer controls the output of the Powerlet and should reset when the ignition is recycled. Tried all that but still no juice. Does anyone know if there is fuse and if so where it might be located. Any and all help will be rewarded with good Karma from me to you.
Thank all y'all in advance

BMW Triumphant · May 2, 2017

What USB device is plugged into the Powerlet to test it? It may need to provide a load connected to be sensed and turn on. Can you test the outlet with something other than the Powerlet USB to see if it works on its own?

lkraus · May 2, 2017

As you found, the BMW accessory socket is controlled by the ZFE, and if shut down due to overload will reset when you switch off the ignition. There are no replaceable fuses on the bike for this circuit. The manual says maximum load for the accessory socket circuit is 5 amps, which is the total capacity of all the sockets (if you have more than one) AND the GPS circuit, if so equipped.

I've seen a few phones that will not charge at all if the USB charger capacity is larger than the phone can handle. For testing purposes, you might try charging a different device through the adapter.

At least some of the Powerlet USB cords and adapters have their own internal fuses. In addition, I was surprised to see that their PAC-069 adapter has several negative reviews on Revzilla due to failures and poor connections.

I hope you can get this sorted out soon.

pglaves · May 2, 2017

Wire a Powerlet outlet, fused, to the battery and skip the Micky Mouse.

Omega Man · May 3, 2017

cockneylad said:
2014 1200 GS
Plugged in a new Powerlet to USB adapter but no power from the Powerlet ? checked around online and if what I read (somewhere?) is correct the computer controls the output of the Powerlet and should reset when the ignition is recycled. Tried all that but still no juice. Does anyone know if there is fuse and if so where it might be located. Any and all help will be rewarded with good Karma from me to you.
Thank all y'all in advance

Interesting. I understand that you want to see what is going on with the accessory outlet on your 2014 bike.
Sometimes the cheaper USB cords either don't work or are shorted to the point a sensitive CAN-BUS will drop out sensing "a problem". I'd try a different cord or other accessory.
Let us know how you make out.
BTW- sometimes removing the plastic panels disconnects, or needs to be disconnected, the wire to the socket.
OM

pglaves · May 3, 2017

Step 1 - test the DIN (Powerlet) socket on the bike. Look in the manual for the key-on or off or jiggle sequence needed for the bike's brain to allow electrons to the outlet.

Step 2 - test the USB converter you plug into the DIN socket. Try more than one cord if needed.

Step 3 - wire an outlet to the battery (fused of course)

craigjv4 · May 3, 2017

I have an extra Powerlet brand socket mounted on the left plastic panel near my leg which was installed by the dealer during the new bike prep. They had the polarity backwards. Figured it out when I recently tried to plug in a new heated jacket liner.

Is your outlet OEM or an adder?

BMW Triumphant · May 3, 2017

lkraus said:
I've seen a few phones that will not charge at all if the USB charger capacity is larger than the phone can handle. For testing purposes, you might try charging a different device through the adapter.

Can't understand this. If a phone needs 1.8 amps max from a USB charger, it will draw 1.8 amps from a charger with max rating of 2 amps, 5 amps, or a 1000 amps! The current draw is a result of the load attached, not on the rating of the charger. Chargers don't push current to a load, the load draws current from the charger according to the load resistance ( or impedance if not a pure resistive load).

You came to your conclusion somehow, and I am curious as to how. I have a battery type USB power pack that does not charge my Cardo for more than 5 minutes and in various threads others have had the same problem. But, not an issue with ratings, something else is going on.

lkraus · May 3, 2017

BMW Triumphant said:
Can't understand this. If a phone needs 1.8 amps max from a USB charger, it will draw 1.8 amps from a charger with max rating of 2 amps, 5 amps, or a 1000 amps! The current draw is a result of the load attached, not on the rating of the charger. Chargers don't push current to a load, the load draws current from the charger according to the load resistance ( or impedance if not a pure resistive load).

You came to your conclusion somehow, and I am curious as to how. I have a battery type USB power pack that does not charge my Cardo for more than 5 minutes and in various threads others have had the same problem. But, not an issue with ratings, something else is going on.

I won't even pretend that I understand it. :dunno

It's just what I've observed after using multiple chargers, cords and devices.

One example, Samsung Galaxy S2 (stock charger output 0.7A) connected to cigarette lighter adapter with four ports, two rated for 2.1A, two at 0.5A. Phone will not charge in the 2.1A ports - the battery symbol shows the lightning bolt that indicates a charger is connected, but it never actually charges. Using the same cord, no problems charging with the 0.5A ports, and the 2.1A ports work with other devices.

I have a small bluetooth receiver (stock charger 0.5A) that will charge with any charger rated less than 1.0A, but the charging light flashes briefly once and goes out if a charger with greater capacity is connected, and it does not charge.

My conclusion is that, for some devices, the battery is not connected directly to the USB cable, that these devices use their own internal circuitry to monitor charging current, and if the input current is capable of exceeding the design limits, the charging circuit disconnects. Possibly this is a safety feature to prevent excess heat/fires/explosions while charging because the batteries are not self regulating? :dunno

I was just trying to provide cockneylad with a possible reason why his adapter might not be working as expected.

cockneylad · May 4, 2017

Thanks Chaps

Thank y'all for the advice. as an update I have returned the powerlet to USB and ordered another. I the mean time I am ordering the Hex ezCan device for all future accessories spot\fog lights, air horn, etc etc. It sounds like the perfect solution for add on electrical goodies and even works with the "Magic" wheel thingy. So again thanks for the help Gents.
Gracias.

kthutchinson · May 16, 2017

lkraus said:
I won't even pretend that I understand it.

It's just what I've observed after using multiple chargers, cords and devices.

One example, Samsung Galaxy S2 (stock charger output 0.7A) connected to cigarette lighter adapter with four ports, two rated for 2.1A, two at 0.5A. Phone will not charge in the 2.1A ports - the battery symbol shows the lightning bolt that indicates a charger is connected, but it never actually charges. Using the same cord, no problems charging with the 0.5A ports, and the 2.1A ports work with other devices.

I have a small bluetooth receiver (stock charger 0.5A) that will charge with any charger rated less than 1.0A, but the charging light flashes briefly once and goes out if a charger with greater capacity is connected, and it does not charge.

My conclusion is that, for some devices, the battery is not connected directly to the USB cable, that these devices use their own internal circuitry to monitor charging current, and if the input current is capable of exceeding the design limits, the charging circuit disconnects. Possibly this is a safety feature to prevent excess heat/fires/explosions while charging because the batteries are not self regulating?

I was just trying to provide cockneylad with a possible reason why his adapter might not be working as expected.

This thread caught my eye as a result of my background in electrical engineering. After some research, I found the following web site that may explain cockneylad's problem:
https://www.extremetech.com/computi...ks-or-how-to-avoid-blowing-up-your-smartphone
Here are the paragraphs from the site that explain the issue:

"The longer answer is that the age of your device plays an important role, dictating both how fast it can be charged, and whether it can be charged using a wall charger at all. Way back in 2007, the USB Implementers Forum released the Battery Charging Specification, which standardized faster ways of charging USB devices, either by pumping more amps through your PC’s USB ports, or by using a wall charger. Shortly thereafter, USB devices that implemented this spec started to arrive.

If you have a modern USB device, you should be able to plug into a high-amperage USB port and enjoy faster charging. If you have an older product, however, it probably won’t work with USB ports that employ the Battery Charging Specification. It might only work with old school, original (500mA) USB 1.0 and 2.0 PC ports. In some (much older) cases, USB devices can only be charged by computers with specific drivers installed, but this is now going back more than a decade."

No Power Powerlet.

cockneylad

New member

BMW Triumphant

Ed Kilner #176066

lkraus

New member

pglaves

#13338

Omega Man

Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat

pglaves

#13338

craigjv4

New member

BMW Triumphant

Ed Kilner #176066

lkraus

New member

cockneylad

New member

kthutchinson

Member

Similar threads

Forum statistics

Share this page