2014 RT clutch sticking

This issue has happened 3 times. It involves the clutch 100% engaging when the clutch lever is moved about 1/64 of and inch.
First time it happened I was at a left turn signal and started to accelerate but the engine died, so I restarted the bike and basically the same thing happened. A homeless guy on the sidewalk next to me yelled 'give it some gas', so I did and the bike with the clutch lever pulled against the handlebar, the bike took off and went through the intersection, and when I stopped it at the curb the engine died.
The second time was when starting the bike first thing in the morning and this time I looked carefully at the lever after it died the first time and when I restarted it I saw that moving the clutch lever basically any amount instantiously fully engaged the clutch.
The third time was last Saturday in Interstate stop and go traffic. The bike again died due to me trying to use the clutch lever as it should be to take off. The second start was exactly line the previous ones, clutch lever fully engaged but the bike wanted to start rolling.
After each of these occurrences I took the bike to the dealer and he could not find a problem, and of course the bike wouldn't repeat the problem.
Bike has 17K miles and 100% dealer maintained. The question is am I the only person in the world this is happening to?
Robert

Had a similar problem on my old ST1300 hydraulic clutch---changed the hydraulic fluid with new fluid and problem went away.

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Nope, been there done that. Dealer did all the fluid changing and checking after the first incident. I appreciate the help and wish that was it.
Ride Safe, Think Fast!
Robert

CaptRehkopf said:

Nope, been there done that. Dealer did all the fluid changing and checking after the first incident. I appreciate the help and wish that was it.
Ride Safe, Think Fast!
Robert

Click to expand...

Are you sure the dealer did a fluid change on the clutch? The clutch has Mineral Oil, I don't know what would be gained by changing it, it's lifetime. You could have air in the system? Did they look at the clutch slave cylinder?

Jay

Jay,
Dealer replaced the clutch. After second incident.
Robert

Robert,
Jay and John are talking about the hydraulic clutch control system. Not the clutch itself. The problem you describe can be caused by a bad slave cylinder or possibly some air in the hydraulic hose. If the dealer changed the slave cylinder with the clutch that's a different story, but it's not part of the clutch.

Thanks. I will forward y'all replys to my dealer.
Ride Safe, Think Fast!
Robert

CaptRehkopf said:

Thanks. I will forward y'all replys to my dealer.
Ride Safe, Think Fast!
Robert

Click to expand...

I suspect he already knows how that hydraulic clutch system works: master cylinder, hose, fluid, slave cylinder. If not, run - do not walk - away from the dealer as fast as you can.

Howdy,
Clutch uses Mineral Oil, lasts a life time? It uses brake fluid, DOT 4 and should be changed every two years along with the the front and rear brake fluid.
Later,
Norm

gloucesterman said:

Howdy,
Clutch uses Mineral Oil, lasts a life time? It uses brake fluid, DOT 4 and should be changed every two years along with the the front and rear brake fluid.
Later,
Norm

Click to expand...

There's no maintenance interval specified for clutch fluid on liquid-cooled boxers (OP has 2014 RT). On what basis do you suggest it be changed every two years? On what basis do you claim it's DOT 4 brake fluid?

clutch problems???

Just some ideas?
Fluid is leaking pass the piston seal in Master cylinder=Handlebar.
Fluid leaking pass piston, clutch servo slave cylinder= down there near clutch? In this case I have not looked at or know were it is? Have a 2015 wet head.
If it were me BOTH would be changed out.
YES to mineral oil. NOT brake fluid, like a Honda ST=I have 1.
From reading YOUR thread. My thoughts.

Had different trouble with my clutch; engagement point changed as bike warmed up. Dealer finally replaced the master cylinder and problem went away (slave cylinder replaced first with no change).

gloucesterman said:

Howdy,
Clutch uses Mineral Oil, lasts a life time? It uses brake fluid, DOT 4 and should be changed every two years along with the the front and rear brake fluid.
Later,
Norm

Click to expand...

Careful here... terminology is important. For a few years BMW did use mineral oil in the clutch master cylinder, not the clutch itself. I don't recall how many years mineral oil was used but it was for a relatively short period of time so read the clutch master cylinder cap. By the way, if your bike calls for mineral oil you cannot substitute brake fluid. Even if you drain the clutch master cylinder and related hoses and components. and, vice versa.

Brake fluid, not mineral oil, is hygroscopic (https://www.google.com/search?q=bor...ceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=hygroscopic+definition) and will absorb moisture. Although you can't tell exactly how often it should be renewed by looking at it a good maintenance interval period is considered to be every 2 years.

bwalker33467 said:

Careful here... terminology is important. For a few years BMW did use mineral oil in the clutch master cylinder, not the clutch itself. I don't recall how many years mineral oil was used but it was for a relatively short period of time so read the clutch master cylinder cap. By the way, if your bike calls for mineral oil you cannot substitute brake fluid. Even if you drain the clutch master cylinder and related hoses and components. and, vice versa.

Click to expand...

No No No! That is backwards. The original application of the hydraulic clutch was DOT 4 brake fluid. This was used for a couple of years or maybe three, and then the system was changed to use mineral oil. The correct fluid is spelled out on the lid to the fluid reservoir on the left handlebar. My 2003 uses DOT 4. New bikes use mineral oil - essentially the same as hydraulic jack oil but BMW sells the special kind.

If the spec for your bike is one fluid and you use the other you have probably destroyed the system. Seals and hoses designed to be used with brake fluid will be ruined by mineral oil and vice versa.

RT clutch is pretty simple, master, fluid line and slave cylinder. If bike is still under warranty let dealer sort it out. My guess a o-ring in master or slave is bypassing