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2011 R1200R - Final Drive Oil Change Frequency

Folks,
Wanted to pass along my latest experience with my final drive oil. This is the second change since I began doing my own service. Both times I've found a nice milkshake colored oil in the final drive case. I've now decided to change this oil every 6k with the engine oil. Before folks panic, I tend to ride through some very extreme weather at times, probably against better judgement, and I believe if your going to do the same, this is something to be mindful of. My latest trip I spent the better part of 14 hours in driving rain and sleet, like wise last year returning from my cross country jaunt across country I encountered similar conditions and I believe this to be the cause of the contamination. It is obviously something in the case venting system that's allowing the moisture in. I'm not going to bash BMW, nor do I believe there is any long term issue with the final drive because of it, as the oil removed was slippery as gorilla snot (not that I'm intimately familiar with gorilla snot, and that's hardly a scientific examination) so please don't jump in here and start ranting, I fully understand the ramifications of contaminated lubricants.

I use an extra 6 oz of oil each time, filling the case, installing the screws lightly and rotating things by hand, then drain this oil and refill with new. The drive seems smooth with no catching or unusual movement. And doing this service myself only takes 20 minutes and is very inexpensive.

You may just want to keep an eye out.
 
Folks,
Wanted to pass along my latest experience with my final drive oil. This is the second change since I began doing my own service. Both times I've found a nice milkshake colored oil in the final drive case. I've now decided to change this oil every 6k with the engine oil. Before folks panic, I tend to ride through some very extreme weather at times, probably against better judgement, and I believe if your going to do the same, this is something to be mindful of. My latest trip I spent the better part of 14 hours in driving rain and sleet, like wise last year returning from my cross country jaunt across country I encountered similar conditions and I believe this to be the cause of the contamination. It is obviously something in the case venting system that's allowing the moisture in. I'm not going to bash BMW, nor do I believe there is any long term issue with the final drive because of it, as the oil removed was slippery as gorilla snot (not that I'm intimately familiar with gorilla snot, and that's hardly a scientific examination) so please don't jump in here and start ranting, I fully understand the ramifications of contaminated lubricants.

I use an extra 6 oz of oil each time, filling the case, installing the screws lightly and rotating things by hand, then drain this oil and refill with new. The drive seems smooth with no catching or unusual movement. And doing this service myself only takes 20 minutes and is very inexpensive.

You may just want to keep an eye out.

Go to any quality pharmacy. Get a few ounces of glycerin. Add about 1/2 to 1 oz ounce to the final drive. Glycerin behaves with oil much like Heet behaves with gasoline. It will mix with and them cause the moisture to mix with oil. Short of hermetically sealing the FD, glycerine is your old fashioned friend. I needed to use it in North Dakota in the winter in the '60s to get moisture out of my engine oil. Thanks Dad!!!!!
 
Interesting on the glycerin. I have some tractors the have the hydraulic fluid contaminated by condensation in the gear cases and then emulsified into a milky looking version of the hydraulic fluid. I wonder if glycerin would help?
OM
 
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