Searched for a post on this topic with no luck. Do we have to use motorcycle oil designed for wet clutch bikes in our dry clutch K bikes. Is there a synthetic motorcycle oil available that meets the specs for the engine that does not have the friction modifiers needed for wet clutch bikes? Thanks
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Engine oil for '02 k1200rs
- Thread starter MrKB
- Start date
I found some recent threads that might have some thoughts:
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?84289-Oil-question
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?86536-2008-K12GT-Brake-Failure-Light
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?69843-Knocking-Noise-from-R1150RT-Flywheel-Clutch
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?84289-Oil-question
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?86536-2008-K12GT-Brake-Failure-Light
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?69843-Knocking-Noise-from-R1150RT-Flywheel-Clutch
61996
IBA# 5819
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akbeemer
SURVIVOR
Friction modifiers are normally associated with energy conserving oils, and I do not know of any motorcycle specific oils that are rated as energy conserving. Any of the generally available motorcycle oils (Valvoline, Castro, Mobile 1, Lucas) will work well with wet clutch bikes. I've used them all in our wet clutch bikes with no problems. Read your owner's manual to determine the oil specifications and buy an oil that meets those specifications.
lee
Debbie's Servant
The K1200RS is a Brick with a dry clutch.
Oils
owners manual - SAYS - weights same as a car (IE: 20 / 50 -10/40) - all depends on outside temp -
IE: - ice cold - 5/30 -- hot (fla ) 20/50
if u use what most dealers - even here in fla use - is 10 /40 - BUT ITS TOO HOT- so ya burn thru the 10 W - or it gets too thin & leaks past oil seals on side kickstand & puff's when started.
I ONLY USE CASTROL my choice- goes in like pee water & drains out the same & keeps eng golden clean (40 yrs now) - change when oil darkens & filter too !!!
i use GTX & change every 2500 to 3 K -- or i use castrol 4T & change every 5k - ish (when oil darkens) synthetic blend. & in fla yr round i use 20/50- due to out side temps - (let eng warm some if cold below 40) dont run flat out till eng warmed some)
THIS CHART IS IN UR OWNERS MANUAL.
oil additives not recommended - due to cylinder treatments (oem) - but i use marvel mystery oil (gas & oil) about 1oz - per change.
& i use a nano level friction reducer - 1oz per oil change - AFTER ENG HAS 20K ON IT - JUST BROKEN IN - ISH. - use any thing with caution - read the labels
DRY CLUTCH ENGS ONLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i never use syn oil in wet clutch bikes - or any additives - IT CAN MAKE THE WET CLUTCH SLIP.
i just prefer castol - engs parts are clean & golden when u pull engs apart- so i'm sold & on all my BMW's (have 8) cars too from the 80's - flying bricks are the same eng style (its a car eng on its side) goggle it.
ANY GOOD OIL WILL DO - CORRECT WEIGHT -- CHANGE WHEN "JUST" BECOMES DIRTY - & OR KEEP CHANGING TILL IT RUNS CLEAN - ISH - AFTER 100 MILES. if it turns dank after 1000 miles - u have a issue.
THE REAL TRICK IS THE CORRECT AMOUNT - AT COLD ITS NOT THE SIGHT GLASS MARKS --READ A CLYMERS / BMW MANUAL - ITS 3.5 OR 3.7 QTS - DEPENDS ON YR OF ENG
DO NOT OVER FILL - OR USE TOO THICK OIL - OR ITS BYE BYE REAR OIL SEAL
THERE IS A METHOD TO FILL TO CORRECT LEVEL - READ MANUALS 1ST
IF U BURN THRU OIL & HAVE TO ADD AFTER 1000 MILES U HAVE A ISSUE OR OIL IS TOO THIN (UNDER 100 K ON ENG) ish.
I NEVER HAVE TO ADD OIL - EVER - EVEN IN FLA @ 95 IN THE SHADE - ON ANY OF MY K12'S OR ETA ENGS
THANK YOU CASTROL & NANO'S & MARVEL MYS OIL
CHOICE IS URS - BUT THIS IS WHAT I DO
SINCE 1972 -
owners manual - SAYS - weights same as a car (IE: 20 / 50 -10/40) - all depends on outside temp -
IE: - ice cold - 5/30 -- hot (fla ) 20/50
if u use what most dealers - even here in fla use - is 10 /40 - BUT ITS TOO HOT- so ya burn thru the 10 W - or it gets too thin & leaks past oil seals on side kickstand & puff's when started.
I ONLY USE CASTROL my choice- goes in like pee water & drains out the same & keeps eng golden clean (40 yrs now) - change when oil darkens & filter too !!!
i use GTX & change every 2500 to 3 K -- or i use castrol 4T & change every 5k - ish (when oil darkens) synthetic blend. & in fla yr round i use 20/50- due to out side temps - (let eng warm some if cold below 40) dont run flat out till eng warmed some)
THIS CHART IS IN UR OWNERS MANUAL.
oil additives not recommended - due to cylinder treatments (oem) - but i use marvel mystery oil (gas & oil) about 1oz - per change.
& i use a nano level friction reducer - 1oz per oil change - AFTER ENG HAS 20K ON IT - JUST BROKEN IN - ISH. - use any thing with caution - read the labels
DRY CLUTCH ENGS ONLY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i never use syn oil in wet clutch bikes - or any additives - IT CAN MAKE THE WET CLUTCH SLIP.
i just prefer castol - engs parts are clean & golden when u pull engs apart- so i'm sold & on all my BMW's (have 8) cars too from the 80's - flying bricks are the same eng style (its a car eng on its side) goggle it.
ANY GOOD OIL WILL DO - CORRECT WEIGHT -- CHANGE WHEN "JUST" BECOMES DIRTY - & OR KEEP CHANGING TILL IT RUNS CLEAN - ISH - AFTER 100 MILES. if it turns dank after 1000 miles - u have a issue.
THE REAL TRICK IS THE CORRECT AMOUNT - AT COLD ITS NOT THE SIGHT GLASS MARKS --READ A CLYMERS / BMW MANUAL - ITS 3.5 OR 3.7 QTS - DEPENDS ON YR OF ENG
DO NOT OVER FILL - OR USE TOO THICK OIL - OR ITS BYE BYE REAR OIL SEAL
THERE IS A METHOD TO FILL TO CORRECT LEVEL - READ MANUALS 1ST
IF U BURN THRU OIL & HAVE TO ADD AFTER 1000 MILES U HAVE A ISSUE OR OIL IS TOO THIN (UNDER 100 K ON ENG) ish.
I NEVER HAVE TO ADD OIL - EVER - EVEN IN FLA @ 95 IN THE SHADE - ON ANY OF MY K12'S OR ETA ENGS
THANK YOU CASTROL & NANO'S & MARVEL MYS OIL
CHOICE IS URS - BUT THIS IS WHAT I DO
SINCE 1972 -
Thanks for the feedback
Many thanks to all the responses. The reason I posted was most of the synthetic MC oil is spec't for wet clutches. I know that these oils have to give up some friction protection by adding chemicals to allow the wet clutch, which depends on friction to work properly. Since my K bike has a dry clutch, I think using an engine oil that is specifically designed for the engine is better than one that has to also deal with the wet clutch. The Clymer manual specifies HD API SF, SG, SH, understanding they are superceeded by SL,SM. Using this, the recommendations and threads listed in the responses, I hope I accomplish this. Finding a full synthetic 20w50 or 15w50 non wet clutch oil has been a challenge. Thanks again.
Many thanks to all the responses. The reason I posted was most of the synthetic MC oil is spec't for wet clutches. I know that these oils have to give up some friction protection by adding chemicals to allow the wet clutch, which depends on friction to work properly. Since my K bike has a dry clutch, I think using an engine oil that is specifically designed for the engine is better than one that has to also deal with the wet clutch. The Clymer manual specifies HD API SF, SG, SH, understanding they are superceeded by SL,SM. Using this, the recommendations and threads listed in the responses, I hope I accomplish this. Finding a full synthetic 20w50 or 15w50 non wet clutch oil has been a challenge. Thanks again.
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oils
yes hard to find full syn 20/50 - that is why i use castrol 4t- but look into castrol - GOLD - bottles - maybe a full syn
i get my 4T from AMazon - should be able to order thru auto zone or local auto parts
after chatting w/ castrol- keeping is simple - 4T starts out as 20 W - thickens to 50W (the syn part)
my 4T stays clean (ish) even after 5k miles- & its a blend - in HOT fla.
i dont care what anyone says - once a yr oil change ? 15K mile change ? - WTFreak ? - NO Wheels That Fail (WTF)
dirt or black in oil is burnt carbon - too SM for filter to remove -- SO CHANGE IT & FILTER
IF TRAVELING JUST CARRY A HF163 & WRENCH (e bay $25) ish - find a bike shop & they should have 4T 20/50 - unless its snowing outside
wallmart & most others - ive noticed dont carry all blends- ck online -
most oils will get drity by 5k - (ring blow by)
maybe ck royal purple ? - full syn ? but its going to cost ya & still will get dirty
yes hard to find full syn 20/50 - that is why i use castrol 4t- but look into castrol - GOLD - bottles - maybe a full syn
i get my 4T from AMazon - should be able to order thru auto zone or local auto parts
after chatting w/ castrol- keeping is simple - 4T starts out as 20 W - thickens to 50W (the syn part)
my 4T stays clean (ish) even after 5k miles- & its a blend - in HOT fla.
i dont care what anyone says - once a yr oil change ? 15K mile change ? - WTFreak ? - NO Wheels That Fail (WTF)
dirt or black in oil is burnt carbon - too SM for filter to remove -- SO CHANGE IT & FILTER
IF TRAVELING JUST CARRY A HF163 & WRENCH (e bay $25) ish - find a bike shop & they should have 4T 20/50 - unless its snowing outside
wallmart & most others - ive noticed dont carry all blends- ck online -
most oils will get drity by 5k - (ring blow by)
maybe ck royal purple ? - full syn ? but its going to cost ya & still will get dirty
Moving Target
Royemello. I think you and I have been dumping oil in MC's for over 50 yrs. I can remember using Castrol, straight weight, non detergent in my 61 Bonneville back in 1966. Anyway, choosing oil today is a moving target, not only does the letter after the "S" change, but the oil/temperature guides change from when our owners manuals were printed. Some of today's guides have 10w40 oils OK up to 122 degrees F. The Clymer manual for 2002 shows about 50 degrees less than that for 10w40. 20w50 barely made it past 100. So, using the original data for my k1200RS is fruitless as everything about the oil has changed. The only T4 I could find is an MC oil with the wet clutch spec. I'm looking at Mobil 1, 15w50 full synthetic as a possibility. I have used the 20w50 MC oil in my Aprilia. Thanks again.
Royemello. I think you and I have been dumping oil in MC's for over 50 yrs. I can remember using Castrol, straight weight, non detergent in my 61 Bonneville back in 1966. Anyway, choosing oil today is a moving target, not only does the letter after the "S" change, but the oil/temperature guides change from when our owners manuals were printed. Some of today's guides have 10w40 oils OK up to 122 degrees F. The Clymer manual for 2002 shows about 50 degrees less than that for 10w40. 20w50 barely made it past 100. So, using the original data for my k1200RS is fruitless as everything about the oil has changed. The only T4 I could find is an MC oil with the wet clutch spec. I'm looking at Mobil 1, 15w50 full synthetic as a possibility. I have used the 20w50 MC oil in my Aprilia. Thanks again.
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regarding oil specs and preferences
From what I see, car engine oil is fine, asI tink someone stated.. A Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, 10w40 15w50 20w50 depending upon your climate.. maybe even 10w30 in cold climate weather. those are more non-friction (and don't slip or ruin the clutch), (since the engine oil is not used in the transmission like a wet clutch). conventional is fine, and after 18,000 miles of "break-in" then one can switch to a synthetic blend or even full synthetic. or keep going on reg oil. as one mentioned, it's like a car engine. Keep safe, change and check fluids often, ride,enjoy and keep aware of all possible.
Cheers! Dave in Fla.
There is plenty of oil available for this motor...lol 
Many thanks to all the responses. The reason I posted was most of the synthetic MC oil is spec't for wet clutches. I know that these oils have to give up some friction protection by adding chemicals to allow the wet clutch, which depends on friction to work properly. Since my K bike has a dry clutch, I think using an engine oil that is specifically designed for the engine is better than one that has to also deal with the wet clutch. The Clymer manual specifies HD API SF, SG, SH, understanding they are superceeded by SL,SM. Using this, the recommendations and threads listed in the responses, I hope I accomplish this. Finding a full synthetic 20w50 or 15w50 non wet clutch oil has been a challenge. Thanks again.
From what I see, car engine oil is fine, asI tink someone stated.. A Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, 10w40 15w50 20w50 depending upon your climate.. maybe even 10w30 in cold climate weather. those are more non-friction (and don't slip or ruin the clutch), (since the engine oil is not used in the transmission like a wet clutch). conventional is fine, and after 18,000 miles of "break-in" then one can switch to a synthetic blend or even full synthetic. or keep going on reg oil. as one mentioned, it's like a car engine. Keep safe, change and check fluids often, ride,enjoy and keep aware of all possible.
Cheers! Dave in Fla.
There is plenty of oil available for this motor...lol 
