2011 R1200RT question on amp draw and heated clothing

My, new to me, bike came equipped with wiring for a GPS (now running my Zumo 550 which is rated at a 15 watt max) and Clearwater Darla Aux. Lights (total of 48 watts). It came with a Centech AP-2 dual fuse panel. I believe the GPS and Aux. lights run into this panel. Also one of the three onboard sockets (rear right) is also wired into the fuse panel for some reason. I am aware this bike has an electronic fuse system which I believe temporarily disconnects power to an overloaded circuit and then somehow reboots in a manner that I'm I don't understand). The onboard sockets are rated at a max of 10 amps in total. I have a Gerbing's dual controller and am looking to power the following:
Jacket at 7.4 amps
Gloves at 2.2 amps and
Pants at 4.5 amps
When I plug the controller into the front socket and attempt to power my Jacket and Gloves I will overload the circuit which I don't understand since the amps of the Jacket and Gloves together at 9.6 should be under the rating of 10 amps for the socket system. I pretty sure that once the Jacket alone caused an overload. I would like to run all three at the same time but that is currently not possible.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what's going on?
Is a simple solution to just wire the controller directly to to Centech fuse panel or will I be creating new problems? Maybe directly to the battery? I thought I'd enlist aid here rather then setting my bike on fire.
Thanks for any responses.

Overload?

My electric vest won't run off the BMW socket. I go directly to the pigtail I use to charge the battery. 2011 RT.

I like simple, just wire your heated clothing directly to the battery. There will be no fire. I have an older Widder vest with arm chaps and have it wired direct, Ive run this configuration for 15 years with no problems.

jandhumphreyme said:

I like simple, just wire your heated clothing directly to the battery. There will be no fire. I have an older Widder vest with arm chaps and have it wired direct, Ive run this configuration for 15 years with no problems.

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With an in-line fuse I hope.

PGlaves said:

With an in-line fuse I hope.

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Goes without saying .... err well it used to anyway.

jandhumphreyme said:

Goes without saying .... err well it used to anyway.

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I have often found it useful to be very specific.

Powering heated clothing

Wire directly to the battery with an inline fuse rated for 20-30amps. No more problems. Why the hell BMW set their accessory plugs up for so few amps is anybody's guess.
Best,

3hawks

will3hawks said:

Wire directly to the battery with an inline fuse rated for 20-30amps. No more problems. Why the hell BMW set their accessory plugs up for so few amps is anybody's guess.
Best,

3hawks

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+1

will3hawks said:

Wire directly to the battery with an inline fuse rated for 20-30amps. No more problems. Why the hell BMW set their accessory plugs up for so few amps is anybody's guess.
Best,

3hawks

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You can buy a compatible electric vest from your BMW dealer.

I like to have one of these to see what is going on;

http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/4231