• Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password.

    If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?

  • Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.

    The Election forum is here: Election Forum

torque wrench

Pueo

New member
Greetings ,
Living on an island presents a challenge in regard to finding a qualified BMW mechanic which has driven me to buying a manual and a 24 K maintenance kit. Equipped with basic mechanical knowledge ,good common sence , and a few tools I decide it is time to start wrenching . In the past I had no need for a torque wrench . It was tight or I had snapped the head off of the bolt . A few years older, perhaps wiser and not as strong ,I decided it was time to purchase a torque wrench. Knowing little to nothing about such a tool would anyone care to recomend a make , model , style , part # for me? I would like the wrench to be suitable for use on my 2002 R 1150 GS.

Thank you in advance.
Paul
 
If price is no object, I would buy Snap On, but that will be very expensive.

I keep a few around:
1.) A Harbor Freight 1/2" model for tires and suspension work (basically one that can be abused). These have done surprising well in accuracy comparisons in the past. I also keep one of these in each car, cause they are like $20. I think they are 20-150 ft-lbs.
2.) A Craftsman 1/2" model. This was a relatively recent purchase when I found a great deal on one. I am gentle with this one and will probably use it for engine work in the future. Also 20-150 ft-lbs.
3.) A Craftsman 3/8" model. 10-75 ft-lbs. At one point a long time ago, this was calibrated. I use this for all my sensitive engine work, and only for that.
4.) A Harbor Freight 1/4" model. This is basically worthless, but there are a few things on automotive rear ends that need very light but accurate torque. Most of the time I tighten by feel instead of getting this out.
5.) A no-name 1/2" beam torque wrench. I haven't used this in years, but it was what I bought back when I was poor. Pretty old school at this point.

My biggest advice is to reset the wrench back to 0 when not using, this will keep it more accurate over the long run.

If you own nothing, I would start with a 3/8" 10-75 ft-lbs type clicker, as this is the most versatile, and I would follow up quickly with a 1/2" cheap one for using on tires and general abuse.
 
I have a 2002 R1150RT. Haven't done maintenance on a GS but I think you would have similar torque wrench needs. Don't waste your money on the cheaper wrenches with the dial readout, since you will be contorting yourself to try to see when the dial reaches the correct value. I have two Craftsman Microtork wrenches. They give a click that you can hear and feel when you hit the torque value that you set, so you don't have to be looking at it. I just checked and one goes up to 105 newton-meters and the other goes up to 29. They work well for all routine maintenance on the RT. The smaller one is just for tightening the oil filter, which I think gets torqued to 10 Nm, below what the larger wrench can handle. They are reasonably priced, around $50-80 on line it looks like.
 
If price is no object, get Stahlwille.

Interchangeable heads, safe to use for loosening, no need to reset to zero. BMW special tools made for this brand.
 
I don't know how accurate these are and have never used them, because I already have 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" click-type torque wrenches, but they have piqued my interest.
3c1a78ca530b80595e6af727cb90634f.jpg

http://bikemaster.com/tools/digital-torque-wrench-adaptor.html

Should be able to find them at the Honolulu BMW Dealer, South Seas Cycle for about $49.

If anyone has experience with them I'd like to know if they are a solid piece of gear. Certainly, they would reduce packing size if you wanted to carry say the 3/8" one with you.
 
I have three Craftsman torque wrenches . . . but if Sears closes they might be getting hard to find. I prefer the micro-clicker style. I do not care for the "Dr. Beam" style.

(I'll be in Wailea in July! Can't wait!! I plan to do a little SCUBA. Maybe I'll rent a bike and visit Haleakala. :wave )
 
My dad lives in Waiuluku(?), either way, on Maui and since my dad is who is, I don't go there often but my brother is there quite frequently.

I have over 12 torque wrenches from dial, micrometer, and torque beam. I can go from 1/2" inch/oz to 1200 ft/pounds. They get a lot of use and frequent calibration but even still, torque should be intuitive.

Just imagine a 12" long wrench and 1 lb of force, that's a foot-pound. Generally, on our bikes, if you have a 6" ratchet and you apply a ton of muscle to it, that's only about 30 ft/lbs. Torque wrenches and the corresponding value should make sense and almost every service manual provides a table that gives you a bit of guidance as to how much force you are really using.

Many, many, long time ago when I could still out muscle my son, and my brother, we had a series of engines prone to blowing a corner of the head gasket. The first one we did, I was lucky enough to be the first one to make all the mistakes. Service manual called for 350 ft/lbs on a 14mm head bolt. My mind said that was too much, thinking 190 was about rule of thumb. HEY!! Someone smarter than me wrote the manual, I would think.

Pulled on the first bolt, could feel it give, no click, then I could turn the head 'round and 'round like the little girl in the Exorcist. Next one, SNAP, on to #3, SNAP.

I went to my boss and said the service manual was wrong. What do you think his response was.

Torque wrenches provide a system that should give you an exact torque every time but the feeling you get while using one should be foremost, not the tool. I worry less about the "quality" of a torque wrench but value the intuitiveness as to what my hands are telling me and the torque wrench confirms I'm right.

I torque everything I can and I know the calibration. As well, technique is a big thing. Always pull a torque wrench into you. Stats show that pushing a torque wrench can reduce the value by up to 20%.
 
Wailea

I have three Craftsman torque wrenches . . . but if Sears closes they might be getting hard to find. I prefer the micro-clicker style. I do not care for the "Dr. Beam" style.

(I'll be in Wailea in July! Can't wait!! I plan to do a little SCUBA. Maybe I'll rent a bike and visit Haleakala. :wave )

Thanks for the info . Say hello when you are here. If you decide to rent a bike we can ride together .
 
tx

If price is no object, I would buy Snap On, but that will be very expensive.

I keep a few around:
1.) A Harbor Freight 1/2" model for tires and suspension work (basically one that can be abused). These have done surprising well in accuracy comparisons in the past. I also keep one of these in each car, cause they are like $20. I think they are 20-150 ft-lbs.
2.) A Craftsman 1/2" model. This was a relatively recent purchase when I found a great deal on one. I am gentle with this one and will probably use it for engine work in the future. Also 20-150 ft-lbs.
3.) A Craftsman 3/8" model. 10-75 ft-lbs. At one point a long time ago, this was calibrated. I use this for all my sensitive engine work, and only for that.
4.) A Harbor Freight 1/4" model. This is basically worthless, but there are a few things on automotive rear ends that need very light but accurate torque. Most of the time I tighten by feel instead of getting this out.
5.) A no-name 1/2" beam torque wrench. I haven't used this in years, but it was what I bought back when I was poor. Pretty old school at this point.

My biggest advice is to reset the wrench back to 0 when not using, this will keep it more accurate over the long run.

If you own nothing, I would start with a 3/8" 10-75 ft-lbs type clicker, as this is the most versatile, and I would follow up quickly with a 1/2" cheap one for using on tires and general abuse.

Thanks , this is helpful
 
wailuku

My dad lives in Waiuluku(?), either way, on Maui and since my dad is who is, I don't go there often but my brother is there quite frequently.

I have over 12 torque wrenches from dial, micrometer, and torque beam. I can go from 1/2" inch/oz to 1200 ft/pounds. They get a lot of use and frequent calibration but even still, torque should be intuitive.

Just imagine a 12" long wrench and 1 lb of force, that's a foot-pound. Generally, on our bikes, if you have a 6" ratchet and you apply a ton of muscle to it, that's only about 30 ft/lbs. Torque wrenches and the corresponding value should make sense and almost every service manual provides a table that gives you a bit of guidance as to how much force you are really using.

Many, many, long time ago when I could still out muscle my son, and my brother, we had a series of engines prone to blowing a corner of the head gasket. The first one we did, I was lucky enough to be the first one to make all the mistakes. Service manual called for 350 ft/lbs on a 14mm head bolt. My mind said that was too much, thinking 190 was about rule of thumb. HEY!! Someone smarter than me wrote the manual, I would think.

Pulled on the first bolt, could feel it give, no click, then I could turn the head 'round and 'round like the little girl in the Exorcist. Next one, SNAP, on to #3, SNAP.

I went to my boss and said the service manual was wrong. What do you think his response was.

Torque wrenches provide a system that should give you an exact torque every time but the feeling you get while using one should be foremost, not the tool. I worry less about the "quality" of a torque wrench but value the intuitiveness as to what my hands are telling me and the torque wrench confirms I'm right.

I torque everything I can and I know the calibration. As well, technique is a big thing. Always pull a torque wrench into you. Stats show that pushing a torque wrench can reduce the value by up to 20%.

I live in Wailuku as well. I hope things with your dad come about . thanks for the help.
 
courious

I don't know how accurate these are and have never used them, because I already have 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" click-type torque wrenches, but they have piqued my interest.
View attachment 60776

http://bikemaster.com/tools/digital-torque-wrench-adaptor.html

Should be able to find them at the Honolulu BMW Dealer, South Seas Cycle for about $49.

If anyone has experience with them I'd like to know if they are a solid piece of gear. Certainly, they would reduce packing size if you wanted to carry say the 3/8" one with you.

Given that I am green in the torque wrench dept. I think I will stick with more of the tried and true. Thanks for your help.
 
Thank you . This is my first forum and am finding my way . I am sure it will be a great resource.

Let me try to add some clarity. I have 6 torque wtenches - three clicker types and three beam types. One of those does 90 percent of the work.

Get a 3/8" drive clicker with a range from about 10 ft lbs to 100 ft lbs (or higher). Many fasteners are in the 25 to 40 ft lb range. Wheel bolts are either 44 ft lb or 77 ft lb. Cover those ranges and you are fine.
 
Let me try to add some clarity. I have 6 torque wtenches - three clicker types and three beam types. One of those does 90 percent of the work.

Get a 3/8" drive clicker with a range from about 10 ft lbs to 100 ft lbs (or higher). Many fasteners are in the 25 to 40 ft lb range. Wheel bolts are either 44 ft lb or 77 ft lb. Cover those ranges and you are fine.

I'll second the above. I bought a HF clicker type that, well is pretty useless as the 21 BMW project car has the need for several single digit torque setting. I have a 30 year old Craftsman beam which is used for the lugs and got a new clicker type for the low ranges (via Amazon)
 
Let me try to add some clarity. I have 6 torque wtenches - three clicker types and three beam types. One of those does 90 percent of the work.

Get a 3/8" drive clicker with a range from about 10 ft lbs to 100 ft lbs (or higher). Many fasteners are in the 25 to 40 ft lb range. Wheel bolts are either 44 ft lb or 77 ft lb. Cover those ranges and you are fine.

I agree. My 3/8" 10 to 100 ft lbs clicker type is the one that I use 90% of the time. I never use my beam type wrench. It is pretty old school . . . but I bought it 50 years ago.
 
Back
Top