2003 1150GS bad Turn signal and cancel switch rt. side - can I WD-40 those switches?

I just got an '03 1150GS with a few issues, one of which is the right hand turn signal and related cancellation switch, neither of which are currently working. The left turn signal works, but I obviously can't shut it off, at least not without turning off the engine, which isn't too convenient in gnarly freeway traffic. My question is, who has figured out a trick to fix these things, which doesn't involve hours of work, or buying a whole new integrated unit? The bike only has 36K on it, which makes me wonder why both switches have failed. Fuses appear to be good. My instinct is to spray something in there and work the switches back and forth for a while - but surely somebody has tried this, and has something to say about it!

Would appreciate any input!

Welcome to the forum!! IMO, WD-40 is not the best for electrical problems. While it disperses water (hence the WD in the name), it tends to attract dirt which makes matters worse down the line. There are other cleaners/lubricants out there that probably do a better job. Here's some threads that discuss bad contacts and use of a spray:

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...Hazard-signal-cancel-odometer-and-speedometer

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?40008-Turn-signal-irritation

https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?72181-Right-Turn-Signal-Stays-on

Thanks! Great info, am following up on a few of the suggested fixes!
Contact cleaner and ground checks coming up.

I just have the same problem on a new to me 2001 GS and Wd 40 work great sprayed in there into a foam and work to switch multiple times let it drip out reinstall it's never worked so good Wd40 is an excellent cleaner Imho

As a Mech Engr I know enough about electronics to be dangerous. My 2000 R1100RT turn signal system etc is very sensitive to conductive contamination in the wiring. I have replaced the original BMW module with a Kisan module & find it still the same. It is obviously microprocessor driven and the firmware or input circuitry for the processor must have some way of locking itself up that can only be recovered by removing the battery terminal for several seconds and powering everything back up. All of the switch inputs are go-to-ground to activate each function. They must all go to a logic that has a very high input impedance in which a little salt water will make the switch input stay grounded. In desperation I have rinsed the switches out with water then distilled water (from a dehumidifier) and then blow dry the switch. Maybe then some contact lube could be considered although I have always just used WD40.

I have not found anyway to reset that processor except by powering everything down. Powering it back up will make it work for a summer or two, but removing the turn signal logic module completely & cleaning it & replacing it by itself doesn't seem to work. Only a processor with bad firmware or inputs could have the symptoms I see. It only goes to a loonie-lockup in humid weather or after riding thru a rain.

Those of you living near salt water would be especially prone to this type of system logic failure. I suspect that typical multimeters would not be able to measure leakage resistance that may be causing this random logic glitch. It is certainly worth trying, but may not detect what we have to be looking for.

The momentary control switches on the 1150's are sealed.
There is a little rubber boot over them that sometimes gets torn (or deteriorates) and allows moisture in.
Open up your assembly and see if that is happening in your case. Note: there is a tiny hidden torx screw under the silver part# label
Contact cleaner and WD 40 are only very temporary fixes and tend to attract dirt.
The right way to solve the problem is to replace the switch - the problem being that they are not available as a separate part and only the whole left control pod can be purchased from BMW for big $$$ ofr Beemer Boneyard if the have one.
I can supply you a known good switch. You will need to cut the existing wires and solder/heatshrink the new one in. PM me if you are interested.
I have repaired several units in the last few years.