2002 K1200RS Clutch Slip

Sounds like it was last filled while on the side stand, rather than on the center stand. Doing it that way requires adding only the specified amount and then checking...on the center. HOWEVER.....I could be wrong on this, but...::
Since the clutch is totally separated from the internals of the transmission, overfilling causing a slip only makes sense to me if fluid was forced out the clutch rod seal and onto the clutch.... If the clutch was contaminated by transmission/gear oil, I would expect the slipping to reappear when you least want it to. Too much fluid inside the transmission case would, I would think, be forced out a vent tube if one existed, or as noted, down the rod. There is no mechanism I am aware of which would cause slipping inside the transmission due to an overfill. So, good luck, I hope whatever you have done has taken care of the issue and that the clutch was not contaminated....

I made it!!

Two up and loaded from Naples FL to N Virginia, then NW to WI. 2200 miles. I only used the cruise on fairly level roads so I could modulate the throttle better. I did some Interstate travel and more than kept up with traffic. I only noticed slippage a few times, usually abrupt or too much throttle, and I caught it fast. I did notice some weapage from the bell housing, so I think engine oil is getting on the clutch. Oil level went from top of the circle ( 3.4 Qts ) to just under the middle, could have used it or it ended up on the clutch? I'll find out when I or a shop tear into it this fall.

And while discussing the clutch slave cylinder problem, don't forget to mention that drilling a small (1.5-2mm) hole on the bottom side of the clutch slave cylinder recess at the back of the trans will allow any leaking fluid to drain down. This prevents the fluid from accumulating to where it can travel down the clutch pushrod and take out the seal, and leaves a tell-tale mark down the rear of the trans that tells you it's time for a new slave cylinder. Replacing that cylinder (around $150 IIRC) is a lot faster and less expensive than letting the fluid take out the trans seal and necessitate removal of the trans.

Best,

DG

MrKB said:

The clutch on my K1200RS slips a bit if I gas it in 3 or 4 and don't down shift. I'm careful not to do this, but I imagine it's also slipping some on the highway. I used to be a Tech and can tackle most mechanical issues. R&R the clutch looks to be a major job and probably requires special tools. Should I attempt it or leave it up to an experienced BMW shop? The bike is currently in FL, but will be in WI this summer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

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did u change the oil - mr.KB? - if so i'l bet u put too much in - 3.5 or 3.7 w/ filter - max only. - start bike - let run till normal - put on side stand- let stand 1 hr or 2 - start up - does it puff smoke from exhaust ?
if so TOO much oil & / or too thin for FLA (like i told ya). if clutch dont leak & did not slip before (ask last owner) - i'm sure he say no - but ask. my GT did this from a dealer in Orlando - TOO FREAKING MUCH OIL & TOO THIN.
that was 10K miles ago - i changed oil (correct weight 4 fla & amount) - NO SLIP & NO OIL PUFF AT START (takes some to burn off) if u dont get it right - u will blow rear seal - like i told ya.
i guess ur tec dont know BMW K bikes or know how to read a clymers - i did warn u this might happen - dealer charges $1800 +++ for a clutch
if it puffs even a little on side stand - change the oil the right way - warm bike drain - 100% & filter (again) 20 / 50w in fla now - 3.5 qts- after 500 to 800 miles clutch should -have less slip. if u got it real wet - its toast.
if u dont hot dog it - maybe u can save it - dont run if too much oil u can blow ft seals too & timing chain will rattle - now its $2500 +++ to fix - or its a 500 parts bike - ur choice.
i dont meen to be harsh - but i told ya this might happen - even because last owner - put too much oil or too thin oil in. i see it all the time here in fla summer - even from bmw dealers - so called bmw tec's & a degree from a match book cover - id make sure 1st before u raise the frame

Oil Amount

royemello. Thanks for the reply. To answer you. I went for a 45 min ride in FL. I drained the oil, R&R the filter and gaskets. I put in 3 qts, rode about 30 min, put on the center stand, added more to just under the top of the circle this was a total 3.4 qts. The book calls for 3.5, I NEVER overfill oil, so I stopped before putting in the last 1/10 of a quart. The oil was Mobil 1, 20w50. I used the side stand all the way back, it never smoked. Like I said, the seam before the transmission shows weapage, not dripping, but wet enough to feel and collect road grime. Again, I'm betting on the rear main seal. I purchased a good used clutch and plate for the bike before I left. I should be set when I repair it. I may have to find special tools to R&R the three seals mentioned by others.

Per 98lee back on post #4:

"Pay extra special attention to the part about keeping the three parts of the clutch assembly orientated with the same rotational orientation on reassembly to maintain proper balance. That means marking the parts before disassembly."

You might want to mark the clutch parts with a file notch or a center punch just to be sure. Paint and felt tip pen marks wipe right off, no prob. Take my word for it.

And just to chime in again, if you 'used' that much oil over that distance and you noticed the misting/weeping of oil at the seem, odds are REALLY high it is the rear main seal. Normally we all recommend you smell the residue to confirm it is engine oil and not transmission oil, but.....your oil consumption with no indication of blue smoke (even with sidestand parking...) gives the indication it is a rear main seal leak. Though, since the trans was overfilled, do the sniff test just to be sure. Gear oil has a very different odor compared to engine oil. If it is engine oil, then you don't need to be concerned about the seal to the transmission, but, then again, you are in there and it is a Very inexpensive part.

Doing the work myself many years ago, I saved approximately $1500 in labor. The job is 90% or so labor. I had to replace the clutch at $450 back then (2007?) and then the clutch slave (what failed for me) and seals on the transmission side. I never did the rear main --- knock wood it is still 'okay' ---

Again, one cannot over emphasize the need to mark the clutch parts before disassembly and ensuring they are re-installed as they came out.

ALWAYS replace the rear crank O-ring if the transmission is off. It's just crazy to skip this, even if you only did it a few years before. The older rear main seals need to be replaced with the spiral Teflon version, but after that they can stay.

Not trying to hijack a thread, but I noticed some of you guys mentioning blue smoke at start-up. I know all about oil leaking past the rings on sidestanded (?) K100s, but I haven't seen that problem on any Ks made after the 80s. Thought they pinned the piston rings in place a few years after the initial K100 launch?
Are you guys still seeing smoke on K11s and 12s?

My K1200RS even if sitting on a side stand for a weekend, doesn't smoke a bit. I have been using Rotella 15w40 the last 6+ years she's been in my possession.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

JeffDiCarlo said:

Not trying to hijack a thread, but I noticed some of you guys mentioning blue smoke at start-up. I know all about oil leaking past the rings on sidestanded (?) K100s, but I haven't seen that problem on any Ks made after the 80s. Thought they pinned the piston rings in place a few years after the initial K100 launch?
Are you guys still seeing smoke on K11s and 12s?

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if smoke - too much oil in bike (& or) too thin - on any / all horizontal piston engs - - oil rings (bottoms) only clean away the "splash lube" - they will not STOP too much oil - ck oil fill specs - not 4 qts.
too much oil will create too much pressure in pan when pistons swing & will blow out / leak by oil seals (hydraulic pressure) 3.4 / 3.5 qts in a k12 - sight glass is only to ck when just shut off "warm / hot" NOT TO FILL/ change

Clutch Slip K12RS 2000 31K.mi

New to me 2000.K12RS.31K.Miles. Test ride didn't reveal any slippage, but felt the friction point was a bit off, as the clutch lever is further away from the handlebar then I'm used to (about 1/2 the travel away from the handlebar). Went out for a post purchase ride and... starting from a stop bike wouldn't accelerate.. radical slipping.. I tried feathering the throttle, 1,2,3rd gear.. eventually it engaged enough to get up to speed. I was only 10 miles from home & I made it there fine with no further slippage. Drive it around home with some hard starts.. no slippage. I'm wondering if this could be clutch servo not a bad or oil soaked disc like others have had. Anyone seen an intermittent clutch servo? No the oil isn't overfilled, I just changed it & it's 1/4 low in the magic circle. I'll look for the suggested seepage points.
Thanks a Million!
Jim- K12RS, R11RT, R11GS