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2002 K1200RS Clutch Slip

MrKB

New member
The clutch on my K1200RS slips a bit if I gas it in 3 or 4 and don't down shift. I'm careful not to do this, but I imagine it's also slipping some on the highway. I used to be a Tech and can tackle most mechanical issues. R&R the clutch looks to be a major job and probably requires special tools. Should I attempt it or leave it up to an experienced BMW shop? The bike is currently in FL, but will be in WI this summer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Welcome to the forum! Can you provide some further background? Are you first owner? How many miles on the bike...on the clutch?

I wonder if the clutch is hydraulically actuated? Could this slave cylinder be acting up or low on fluid?
 
In the future, please put the year and model of the bike you are refering to. IN THE TITLE of your thread. That way you will get more relevant answers and others will be able to search this forum easier.
That being said, if you add that info in your next post, I will put it in the title of this thread.

The most common cause of clutch slippage on early K bikes, other than a grossly misadjusted clutch with no freeplay, is the O-ring behind the nut that holds the "flywheel" to the output shaft. It drys out and cracks, causing oil to get on the friction surface. The labor to replace this O-ring is only 1 step less than replacing the rear main seal. So, if you're already in that deep.......

It's not a hard job, just a lot of things to remove to get there. Get a shop manual and follow the steps. Pay extra special attention to the part about keeping the three parts of the clutch assembly orientated with the same rotational orientation on reassembly to maintain proper balance. That means marking the parts before disassembly.




:dance:dance:dance
 
More info

Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I did not add more details. I am not the original owner, I purchased the 2002, K1200RS three weeks ago with 15,300 miles. I did not notice any clutch slippage initially. lt showed up a few days later when driving in town. I was not aware you could adjust a hydraulic clutch. Also, back in the old days, if we had oil on our clutch it would grab. This engages fine. I will order a work shop manual ASAP. Thanks again.
 
If you decide to do the work yourself there are 3 seals or o-rings.
If you spend all that time to break the bike in two you should replace all three.

On my 2003 K1200RS I had the rear seal replaced during the warranty period and my wife had the rear and output seal replaced on her 03 K1200RS.
On one bike the clutch had to be replaced. On the other one there was very little oil on the clutch and they were able to clean it.
 
Welcome to the forum! Can you provide some further background? Are you first owner? How many miles on the bike...on the clutch?

I wonder if the clutch is hydraulically actuated? Could this slave cylinder be acting up or low on fluid?

Easy fix for that: bleed the system. If that fixes it, there you are.
 
Here's a pic showing the line for bleeding the clutch. You need to remove the grub screw in the end and install a bleeder.

Clutch_bleed1.JPG
 
When the leak starts you will see a little oil at this seam, but not always.
 

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Thanks

Thanks for the info and pics. I'm currently in WI, I'll try bleeding the clutch and look for leaks when I get back to FL. If it is oil getting on the clutch, would the slippage get gradually worse, even if I baby it? I would like to ride it home to fix it! Lots easier than truck and trailer. Thanks, again.
 
Thanks for the info and pics. I'm currently in WI, I'll try bleeding the clutch and look for leaks when I get back to FL. If it is oil getting on the clutch, would the slippage get gradually worse, even if I baby it? I would like to ride it home to fix it! Lots easier than truck and trailer. Thanks, again.

If you do have a leak, you may be able to save the clutch by not riding home.
 
If you fix the leak, probably it won't get worse. But I suspect that repair isn't happening in WI. I hope you can get a good deal on the trailer.
 
While the rear main could be the most common culprit in 98Lee's experience (vastly more than mine), it is certainly not the only cause of a slipping clutch, especially a later K1200RS. I had the rear main go, the trans input seal go, etc on various K bikes over the years. Most recently for me was the Clutch Slave seal going bad while on the road (96,000 miles). This caused the clutch fluid to run down the rod that goes through the center of the trans from the back all the way to the center of the clutch basket. This fluid causes the trans input shaft seal to fail and the result is trans oil on the clutch as well as clutch fluid on the clutch and in the housing. Failure on the road is a pain as no matter how much clutch fluid (brake fluid) you add so you get a little clutch action, it has to go somewhere and that is into the trans and onto the clutch and the slippage just gets worse and worse. I know there are those out there that have ridden many miles after the slipping starts, but IF it is the clutch slave seal, do not chance it. I made it home 180 miles - BARELY.
As noted above, regardless of the cause, you have to raise the frame off the engine/trans/driveline and pull the trans to get to the clutch. And, when you are in there, do all three seals. I do not have the tools, so I skipped the rear main and had the trans input seal done at the shop. The clutch slave seal was easy after I got the tranny back. Took me about 8 hours of sometimes physically hard work over a couple of weekends in my garage (when I had one). But it has held really well and the bike still runs fine at 137,000 miles.
there are many DIY videos and threads out there here and on other forums.
 
While the rear main could be the most common culprit in 98Lee's experience (vastly more than mine), it is certainly not the only cause of a slipping clutch, especially a later K1200RS. I had the rear main go, the trans input seal go, etc on various K bikes over the years. Most recently for me was the Clutch Slave seal going bad while on the road (96,000 miles). This caused the clutch fluid to run down the rod that goes through the center of the trans from the back all the way to the center of the clutch basket. This fluid causes the trans input shaft seal to fail and the result is trans oil on the clutch as well as clutch fluid on the clutch and in the housing. Failure on the road is a pain as no matter how much clutch fluid (brake fluid) you add so you get a little clutch action, it has to go somewhere and that is into the trans and onto the clutch and the slippage just gets worse and worse.

Which is exactly why it is so often recommended to drill a small weep hole (1.0-1.5mm) in the bottom of the recess that holds the clutch slave cylinder. That way, if the slave starts leaking the fluid--which is DOT 4 brake fluid-- can drain away and be less likely to follow the clutch pushrods into the trans. It also leaves a tell-tale trail on the back side of the trans so you know for sure when the slave cylinder is leaking.

Lots of threads over on http://www.I-BMW.com detailing the clutch and seals repair.

Best,
DG
 
Been there.....

The clutch on my 2003 K12RS started slipping on the way to last year's National in western NY. I babied it all weekend. Got me home and I replaced it all in the following weeks.
A few observations, if you are considering doing this yourself. Hardest part is finding a way to support the bike while you remove the pieces to which all its supporting elements are bolted. The tranny needs to get pulled out, but the stands are bolted to its bottom. I ended up hanging my frame from the main beam in my garage.
And when everyone tells you there is a lot of stuff to get removed, be sure you understand that there is a LOT of stuff to be removed. And hopefully, replaced. One of the harder tasks was rerouting all the hoses and wires after they've been pushed aside during the teardown. Take lots of pictures going in.
I also had trouble getting all the air out of the ABS/e-brake system after it had been disassembled. Think I finally have it right by now.
It's not rocket science, but its not like changing spark plugs.
 
In reply to RBEmmerson's Off Topic question, I have always done all the basic maintenance myself and for the early under warranty stuff, used my local dealer. I have done the crank case vent hose several times (with looonng needle nose pliers...) and many major items over time, as well. I have replacement parts for all the rubber in the intake tract but no place to work anymore so the mild burbling due to air/vacuum leakage is acceptable until we finish our home in Mexico and I have a place to totally strip the bike down and work on it. The only aftermarket stuff I have on it is the RhineWest cam gear and chip kit which requires the stock pipe. All else is just keeping up with things...
 
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Update

Trans was overfull. With the bike on a level surface, on the center stand, cold, about 1/4 cup ran out. I warmed it up and drained out more. Did 150 miles of highway with no slip. Have went through the gears briskly with no slip. I'm going to ride it home in May. I may hit a rally on the way. I haven't been to one since the Nats in Missoula MT where I rode the the first K bikes. Don't remember the year! Wish me luck. Thanks to all.:)
 
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