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  1. #1
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    K1300GT Dead battery condition?

    Five weeks ago I went two states over to a local BMW dealer to pick up my new to me 2010 K1300GT. It has 28K miles on the clock. Its about a 200 mile ride back home. About 130 miles into the trip the bike stalls while going about 75mph. Now, I'm not sure if the bike actually stalled or if my hand hit the starter button and I shut it off ...New bike and I was unfamiliar with the position of the controls. Outside temp was 47F. I was using the heated grips and seat and running cruise control.

    So the engine is now off and I'm coasting down from 75ish now. I pull in the clutch lever and press the starter button. The starter engaged but the engine didn't turn over. I made a few more attempts while rolling as I was pulling on to the shoulder. At say the third or fourth attempt I heard the click click click... Ok, now I've got a problem!! So the bike stops and on the center stand it goes. I hit the starter another time or two and the clicking and then no more clicking

    I call home and dispatch the rescue truck and trailer. After I get home I plugged it into the battery tender. The next morning (7 hours later) I see the battery tender light red light is flashing. I'm curious to see if the battery is toast so I turn the key and press the button and it starts. I'm not ready to ride so I shut it off. I unplug the tender and then plug it back in. Four hour later the light is solid green.

    A few days later after several 20 mile + rides I'm out riding. I shut it off so I could take a picture and five minutes later I hit the starter button and I get the click click click again... Call home again and dispatch the rescue squad. Being curious I try to start it again and it starts perfect. Ok, change of plans... The bike is running so I'm going straight to the battery store. At the next stop light I dumped the clutch and stalled Hit the starter and luckily it started but it turned over slow and just enough. 15 miles later I arrive at the battery store. The checks the battery and say nope its still good. Uhhhh ok, now what? Went home without trouble. The next day I take the battery to Autozone and they said they can load test it. He says 12.7 so it should be good.

    Like all of you I want to know my bike is going to be reliable so I'm not sure what to do? I was going to just replace the PC680 with a new one but my buddy is saying not to because I probably have a bad ground somewhere. I'm a pretty good wrench and all but electrical stuff is not easy for me.


    So please advise:

    New Battery?

    Search for a bad ground?

    Other ideas?


    -Rob

  2. #2
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Rob -

    Welcome to the forum! Stay tuned for good advice on how to troubleshoot your situation...not fun I'm sure.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
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  3. #3
    It sounds like the battery charger will charge the battery but the bike's charging system won't for some reason.

    Connect a decent volt meter to the battery. Read the voltage. Start the engine. Read the voltage with the engine at about 2,000 rpm.

    Report back.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #4
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum


    I would clean the cable termination rings as any corrosion will affect current flow. See a lot of corroded rings and bolts.
    The hit or miss condition sure sounds like a bad connection. Simple to locate the battery end, a little work to check starter and frame grounds...which on that bike seems not as common.

    As Paul mentions, see what the bikes output voltage is while running.

    It will come up, but the charging systems on BMW's will not fully charge an Odyssey.
    We have a couple of them, but use a charger designed to top them up on occasion.
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

    Be decisive, right or wrong.The road of life is paved with
    flat squirrels who couldn't make a decision~unknown

  5. #5
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    Ok, I'll clean the rings and then check voltage and report back. I agree that a bad frame ground is probably less likely and hopefully not what I have to chase down. Ghost hunting isn't my strong suit either.


    Thanks guys.
    I've been around since 2008. I moved away for a while and now that I'm back you all changed the forum on me!

  6. #6
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    The terminals were clean. The first voltage check with engine off was 12.7v. When running it was 14.2-14.3v.
    I've been around since 2008. I moved away for a while and now that I'm back you all changed the forum on me!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by RSPENNACHIO View Post
    The terminals were clean. The first voltage check with engine off was 12.7v. When running it was 14.2-14.3v.
    Good news and bad news. The charging system seems to be working and you didn't find any connector problem. That is the good news.

    Why it is failing is still a mystery. That is the bad news.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  8. #8
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    There is also a hot start electrical problem on these bikes that can be resolved via a retrofit kit from BMW. Replaces the cable from the battery to starter and a relay IIRC. If your charging system checks good and you only have the issue on hot starts, I'd suspect the cable/relay kit and/or a battery going south.
    Good luck,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST 1984 R80 G/S-PD 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C 2010 K1300GT 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  9. #9
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    Like all electronically controlled vehicles, it's needs a minimum voltage to run. So, i would rig up voltmeter that can be seen while riding, and not go too far from the rescue vehicle. If the voltage continually drops while riding, that would indicate a charging system problem. That could be a ground, or something more costly.

  10. #10
    What kind of battery is in there now? How old is it? Get an Odyssey PC680 and all should be good. I just went through a weird round with battery, a failing cell in one battery gave all the results of a good battery and it took a few days before I actually caught it dropping to like 7 volts when cranking


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    Brian Hinton
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  11. #11
    Kein Nasebohrer RBEmerson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianhinton View Post
    What kind of battery is in there now? How old is it? Get an Odyssey PC680 and all should be good. I just went through a weird round with battery, a failing cell in one battery gave all the results of a good battery and it took a few days before I actually caught it dropping to like 7 volts when cranking
    Um, if your battery dropped to 7V while cranking, I'm amazed it cranked at all. Further, I wonder about the damage done to the starter. The starter needs X amounts of energy (watts) to operate. As voltage drops, the current must go up to get the required wattage. Increased current means starter motor coils being heated beyond what's normal for cranking with in-spec voltage. With electrical stuff, heat is the villain.

    If there was a dead cell and the battery seemed otherwise OK, I have no idea how that happened. Each cell supplies (in very round numbers) 2V - 6 cells, 12V. Lose a cell and the battery can only produce 10V, and probably less depending on the cell's exact failure mode.

    A Walmart battery would fix the dead cell problem as well as an Odyssey battery, and for far less cost. OTOH, the Wally-world battery might not last as long. But maybe not. Generally, if a battery isn't trash, good care (proper charging, in-spec storage and use) will keep it going for easily 5 years but 7 or more isn't unreasonable.
    Some people are wise. Some people are otherwise.

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