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To lower or not

jagarra

Gerard
Being somewhat vertically challenged I am thinking about lowing my 94 R1100RS 30mm when I purchase new Wilbers. Before I make the plunge I was wondering how many others have gone the route of lowering their rides and their experiences good and bad on the change.
 
I did it to my 99 R1100RS and also used Wilbers. No regrets at all. The only down side is putting the bike on the center stand. That can be helped by either shortening the center stand or putting a block of wood under the rear tire. The side stand does not need to be shortened.
 
I did it to my 99 R1100RS and also used Wilbers. No regrets at all. The only down side is putting the bike on the center stand. That can be helped by either shortening the center stand or putting a block of wood under the rear tire. The side stand does not need to be shortened.

Put a Wilbers on my K100 and lowered the bike a 1/2 inch. That was too short for lowering the centre stand. Total agreement on using piece of wood under the rear wheel for when the bike needs to be placed on the centre stand.

For the half inch, I would not do it again; definitely would for an inch or a bit more. I was told that was all that bike could be lowered.
 
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I installed Wilber's to lower my 96 RT and I'm very happy. I had a friend who is a tool and die maker lower my center stand a little and the side stand as well. You have be careful cutting them off as they are made to nest a certain way and if cut wrong they won't.
 
Rule #1. If you are not sure - don't!!

Rule #1 goes for snipers...and marriage:gerg:gerg
As for sure, are only two things that you can be sure of: one is taxes!!
We are talking about making your bike more suitable for your needs. If
you never try,(as you can never be sure!)will never know.
Thanks to the members of this and other forums, that share their experience,
makes it much easier to decide what to do. Either way, the process is reversible.
If you don't like it, can replace the lower shocks with standard height.
 
Changing the length of the side-stand or center-stand is really no big deal. I changed both when I lowered the F800GS.
OM
 
How did you do it? Just cut 1" and weld ?
After I lowered the F88, I wanted to determine the "new" lean angle for the side stand. This was determined by rolling the bike up onto different thicknesses of boards to see what was needed to be removed.
First, an index line was scribed along the length of the SS to insure proper "clock" position.
I used a pipe cutter to section the side-stand as it leaves a "ridge" during the cutting process. The ridge leaves the ability to change the inside diameter- a bit.
I used a piece of round stock close to the ID and a "burr" to receive the inside edge to allow the round stock to fit well.
After the usual fit and prep, I hit it with the mig welder. The welding "grabbed" the piece of round stock as well as rejoining the two pieces of the side-stand.
Same for the center-stand.
Some good paint from BMW, it stinks when heated :)
OM
 
After I lowered the F88, I wanted to determine the "new" lean angle for the side stand. This was determined by rolling the bike up onto different thicknesses of boards to see what was needed to be removed.
First, an index line was scribed along the length of the SS to insure proper "clock" position.
I used a pipe cutter to section the side-stand as it leaves a "ridge" during the cutting process. The ridge leaves the ability to change the inside diameter- a bit.
I used a piece of round stock close to the ID and a "burr" to receive the inside edge to allow the round stock to fit well.
After the usual fit and prep, I hit it with the mig welder. The welding "grabbed" the piece of round stock as well as rejoining the two pieces of the side-stand.
Same for the center-stand.
Some good paint from BMW, it stinks when heated :)
OM

Perfect! Had in mind to powder coat the center stand anyways, it was getting rusty from a leaky battery i got the bike with.
Is good to know they are hallow inside( which should, to keep them flexible!), makes it easier to line up the two parts.
Center stand should be right about 1', the side stand slightly more, as it is the hypotenuse of the triage.
Thanks, OM
 
Perfect! Had in mind to powder coat the center stand anyways, it was getting rusty from a leaky battery i got the bike with.
Is good to know they are hallow inside( which should, to keep them flexible!), makes it easier to line up the two parts.
Center stand should be right about 1', the side stand slightly more, as it is the hypotenuse of the triage.
Thanks, OM
Hypotenuse.......kinda a big word for a Saturday :rofl
My degree in Redneck Engierneering has me using boards :)

I actually have the "slugs" that I removed- somewhere. I'm hesitant to mention a specific dimension as I think it's probably a bit different- bike to bike.
OM
 
Hypotenuse.......kinda a big word for a Saturday :rofl
My degree in Redneck Engierneering has me using boards :)

I actually have the "slugs" that I removed- somewhere. I'm hesitant to mention a specific dimension as I think it's probably a bit different- bike to bike.
OM

It took me a wile to figure out how to spell that..but is good to put a smile on someones face!!:D
No need to measure the slugs. Will see what i have once the shocks are installed:scratch. Will take it from there.
(can't wait to get them!!:nod)
 
Still working on making my decision on lowering the RS.

Built a couple of pads 30MM thick, as that is what Wilber's will lower the BMW, and straddled my bike with them under my feet, I could almost get flat footed, heels barely off. Normally I am solid on the balls of my feet with the stock height,. Now I understand this mod is reversible, but when spending $1200 plus for the shocks I really want to get it right the first time. When I decide to cut the stands down I buy another set from e-bay and cut them down, keeping the set of originals.

Having just done this to my Concours, which had me on tippy toes with a lot of top heavy weight I can provide a couple pros and cons. I lowered it by 2" with a new rocker section, lowered the forks by 1" to help equalize the rear. I was concerned about the loss of wheel travel. Rear clearance is about the width of my hand, 3 1/2" . Had to cut 1" off the side stand, figure the center has to be the same as the difference in height 2". The loss of lift from the center stand will make removing the rear wheel a first class PIA. Now I can almost touch flat footed. Haven't ridden it much as I have been riding the BMWs more, so I can't attest to how much stuff will bottom out, but I have increased all damping/preload on both ends to help with loss of travel.
 
I think I must be one of the very few BMW riders who does not mind having a tall bike. I admit I cannot "flat foot" it when I come to a stop. But I regard that as a minor inconvenience. I like being higher up when riding down the road. I'm more visible, and I feel I can see better. I question the re-sale value when these bikes are dropped down in height. You have to find someone who is shares your leg length, otherwise they are too cramped on the bike. Putting it back to it's original height is just too expensive on a used bike, so it's a basically a non-reversible modification. I've owned bikes (briefly) that were "lowered" and I would not buy another one.
But of course I realize I am in the minority. I think it's one of the bigger reasons 99% of the country is riding around on Harleys. They just love to feel that solid ground under their feet when the thing is sitting at stop lights, which it is a good amount of the time.
 
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