Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 114

Thread: Oil filter won't release

  1. #16
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mansfield,MA
    Posts
    14,469
    Do you mean the "outer can" has let loose of the base plate?
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  2. #17
    Registered User wkuwiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by Omega Man View Post
    I did have another thought that may be a possibility. It's another toughie but depending on your tools and experience, you could mig-weld the two pieces into one and give it a twist.
    If you were closer, I'd have a look for you. I spend all day with screwed up things........and making them "whole" again.
    OM
    Thank you for the offer Omega Man. I did live in Harvard, MA for 10 years and then in South Dartmouth. Wish I was closer...

  3. #18
    Registered User wkuwiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by Omega Man View Post
    Do you mean the "outer can" has let loose of the base plate?
    OM
    based on my recent photo and this morning rolling on the garage floor it's the threads on the filter that appear stripped.

  4. #19
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mansfield,MA
    Posts
    14,469
    Ok. I guess my next try would be to snake a wire- maybe nylon cord in on hole and out the other. Then, form a loop just shy of the surrounding alumina where you can stick a piece of wood so as you can apply a "pulling" pressure- then a bit of a twist with vise grips.
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  5. #20
    Maybe I am not understanding what I am looking at, but can you get a pair of channel lock pliers onto the center post area and turn it out that way?

    Dave McDougall

  6. #21
    Registered User wkuwiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by 141987 View Post
    Maybe I am not understanding what I am looking at, but can you get a pair of channel lock pliers onto the center post area and turn it out that way?

    Dave McDougall
    Dave: The center post is where the filter threads on. I would not risk damage to the threads on the bike ($$$ replacement). Now that i have seen it I may try Omega Man's suggestion of the nylon cord....

  7. #22
    Registered User temesvar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Windsor,ON
    Posts
    389
    [QUOTE=wkuwiz;1065113]Ok - so in the vein of trying to solve the problem.... And the potential humility of embarrassment... I tore down the filter in an attempt to get at the shoulders here. Got needle nose up in the holes and can turn but she's stripped. Here's what she looks like. I applied heat from a heat gun to see if I could expend the threads and create friction but she just spins. Upon close examination of the blown up photo it appears the filter is cross-threaded but it may be the angle. then again my eyesight is not what it once was up close. As I said, the filter was put on by hand and tightened to spec before a 4,000 mile ride.

    My only guess now is to have it cut out with a torch. Suggestions?

    That is SOO UGLY!! I feel for you, will fallow this thread, hopping you will get it out!
    Are you sure you had the right thread pitch? They could come mixed up, or damaged.
    I personally just hand tight the filter, not torque wrench. Just a suggestion, if you
    didn't try already, put a punch mark on the threaded bushing, warm it up with a torch,
    and try to punch it out when still warm. I tend to believe the thread is striped.
    Would also suggest to try with a small hole saw ,or a tubular socket wrench, tap it until
    creates a bite, and try then.
    (CCW, i hope!!)
    Best of luck!!

  8. #23
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mansfield,MA
    Posts
    14,469
    As I get a chance to look at this from a larger screen, I think the "guts" have separated. I would try to "tap it around" with a chisel....Start around the letter "T".
    BTW, that's what the Chebby I just worked on looked like- only it still had the paper guts.



    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  9. #24
    Registered User wkuwiz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    105

    Still at it...

    Had a buddy over and he and I removed most all of the housing and took a Dremel to the collar. It is stainless and we ain't making a dent!

    Here's the latest pic. I am going to have to put some ratchets on my basketball goal to lift the bike and get some working room. But this is unbelievable to have happened to an OEM filter. I am hopeful the sump threads are not damaged.
    IMG_3465.jpg

  10. #25
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mansfield,MA
    Posts
    14,469
    Quote Originally Posted by wkuwiz View Post
    based on my recent photo and this morning rolling on the garage floor it's the threads on the filter that appear stripped.
    Quote Originally Posted by 141987 View Post
    Maybe I am not understanding what I am looking at, but can you get a pair of channel lock pliers onto the center post area and turn it out that way?

    Dave McDougall
    I was confused as to your terminology as far as what part was "stripped" but now have a better idea as you mentioned hoping the piece on the engine was still ok.
    I still think, as there is a part of the filter that spins, it's the "internals" of the filter that have separated.

    Here is a video of how a filter is made, I believe the what they call the "tapping plate" has come loose be it the weld or the final crimp.



    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  11. #26
    SURVIVOR akbeemer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Big Sky Country
    Posts
    7,588
    On some models the oil filter screws onto a nipple that is threaded at both ends. Not sure if the same arrangement is present on the R12R, but if it is, then you may be able to unscrew the nipple from the engine with the old oil filter attached. Shop manual or fiche may reveal if this is a viable solution.
    Kevin Huddy
    The Outpost, Silver City, Montana

  12. #27
    Registered User temesvar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Windsor,ON
    Posts
    389
    If, IF the filter in question is built same way, and the threaded part is a full size plate, not just a bushing, as i thought,
    can drill two holes thru the existing holes into the threaded plate, and try with needle nose pliers

  13. #28
    Registered User temesvar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Windsor,ON
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by akbeemer View Post
    On some models the oil filter screws onto a nipple that is threaded at both ends. Not sure if the same arrangement is present on the R12R, but if it is, then you may be able to unscrew the nipple from the engine with the old oil filter attached. Shop manual or fiche may reveal if this is a viable solution.
    That would make sense, since the block is aluminum, and the threaded part is steel.
    Am not sure how easy would be to remove that, but is a thought.
    For that, e pipe plug removing tool will do it.

  14. #29
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mansfield,MA
    Posts
    14,469
    I would be concerned on drilling as I don't know when you would know to stop. If I had another engine there to look at I guess you could make sure where the clearance is, use a drill stop and then tap the plate perhaps 1/4-20 and bind the two "levels" together.
    Gives me another thought, perhaps the piece that rotates already lines up with something and you can hold the part you can't see that way.
    If you use a kind of "jamming" method, when it moves, I would only move a little before checking to make sure your jamming device isn't up against something.
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  15. #30
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mansfield,MA
    Posts
    14,469
    Quote Originally Posted by temesvar View Post
    That would make sense, since the block is aluminum, and the threaded part is steel.
    Am not sure how easy would be to remove that, but is a thought.
    For that, e pipe plug removing tool will do it.
    Sounds like a good suggestion-



    Easily obtained.
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •