Dave: The center post is where the filter threads on. I would not risk damage to the threads on the bike ($$$ replacement). Now that i have seen it I may try Omega Man's suggestion of the nylon cord....
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Oil filter won't release
- Thread starter wkuwiz
- Start date
Dave: The center post is where the filter threads on. I would not risk damage to the threads on the bike ($$$ replacement). Now that i have seen it I may try Omega Man's suggestion of the nylon cord....
temesvar
New member
As I get a chance to look at this from a larger screen, I think the "guts" have separated. I would try to "tap it around" with a chisel....Start around the letter "T".
BTW, that's what the Chebby I just worked on looked like- only it still had the paper guts.
OM
BTW, that's what the Chebby I just worked on looked like- only it still had the paper guts.
OM
Still at it...
Had a buddy over and he and I removed most all of the housing and took a Dremel to the collar. It is stainless and we ain't making a dent!
Here's the latest pic. I am going to have to put some ratchets on my basketball goal to lift the bike and get some working room. But this is unbelievable to have happened to an OEM filter. I am hopeful the sump threads are not damaged.
Had a buddy over and he and I removed most all of the housing and took a Dremel to the collar. It is stainless and we ain't making a dent!
Here's the latest pic. I am going to have to put some ratchets on my basketball goal to lift the bike and get some working room. But this is unbelievable to have happened to an OEM filter. I am hopeful the sump threads are not damaged.
I was confused as to your terminology as far as what part was "stripped" but now have a better idea as you mentioned hoping the piece on the engine was still ok.
I still think, as there is a part of the filter that spins, it's the "internals" of the filter that have separated.
Here is a video of how a filter is made, I believe the what they call the "tapping plate" has come loose be it the weld or the final crimp.
OM
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
On some models the oil filter screws onto a nipple that is threaded at both ends. Not sure if the same arrangement is present on the R12R, but if it is, then you may be able to unscrew the nipple from the engine with the old oil filter attached. Shop manual or fiche may reveal if this is a viable solution.
temesvar
New member
That would make sense, since the block is aluminum, and the threaded part is steel.
Am not sure how easy would be to remove that, but is a thought.
For that, e pipe plug removing tool will do it.
I would be concerned on drilling as I don't know when you would know to stop. If I had another engine there to look at I guess you could make sure where the clearance is, use a drill stop and then tap the plate perhaps 1/4-20 and bind the two "levels" together.
Gives me another thought, perhaps the piece that rotates already lines up with something and you can hold the part you can't see that way.
If you use a kind of "jamming" method, when it moves, I would only move a little before checking to make sure your jamming device isn't up against something.
OM
Gives me another thought, perhaps the piece that rotates already lines up with something and you can hold the part you can't see that way.
If you use a kind of "jamming" method, when it moves, I would only move a little before checking to make sure your jamming device isn't up against something.
OM
I am wondering if you could get channel lock pliers on the collar and turn it and pull on it at the same time??
Thanks. Yes, I was able to gain a hold on the collar but it did not result in traction. Still working on this one.
ahd43
Member
Maybe now take a Dremel type tool and cut a line between the holes in the tapping plate. That could relieve any pressure put on the threads by way of where the seal contacts the engine and allowing you to get a good hold on what is left of the tapping plate.
If that doesn't work my next step would be to take that same Dremel tool and start to cut in towards the threads. That should weaken the the tapping plate at the threads and whats left of the tapping plate should come off easily.
or not...but I think it will.
Marty
If that doesn't work my next step would be to take that same Dremel tool and start to cut in towards the threads. That should weaken the the tapping plate at the threads and whats left of the tapping plate should come off easily.
or not...but I think it will.
Marty
That scares me to death! I just got a great tool idea from a rider on the ADV board. It's called the "life saving Oil Filter Wrench". Look it up.
How is that tool going to help you? You said that the tapping plate spins when you put needle nose pliers in the holes. If the hole is stripped in the tapping plate then this tool will not work.
http://motowheels.com/i-10115677-corse-dynamics-life-saving-oil-filter-wrench-ducati-oem-filter.html
Just my 2 cents
Roger L
http://motowheels.com/i-10115677-corse-dynamics-life-saving-oil-filter-wrench-ducati-oem-filter.html
Just my 2 cents
Roger L
wyman.winn
i should be out riding!
Hmmm....
my thought, take it for what it is worth...
the aluminum case has a nipple of sorts threaded into the case to attach the oil filter....it had to be installed in a threaded boss...YES???
i am not near my RT at the moment, but i would bet that that "nipple" could be un-screwed from the case without much effort....maybe our wise mechanics will chime in on this...
my thought, take it for what it is worth...
the aluminum case has a nipple of sorts threaded into the case to attach the oil filter....it had to be installed in a threaded boss...YES???
i am not near my RT at the moment, but i would bet that that "nipple" could be un-screwed from the case without much effort....maybe our wise mechanics will chime in on this...
Woodbutcher
New member
I'd make a tool. Some round stock sized to fit in the holes of the base of the filter. Drill two holes in a some flat metal, spaced apart enough to line up with opposite holes on the filter base. Make sure the flat metal is thick enough (1/4" ought to work) to hold the pins. Make sure the flat stock is long enough to use as a handle. That should give you enough length to get some good leverage. If that doesn't make sense, I'll see if I can find the tool I made that is similar and take a picture.
Basically it is a spanner with two pins that mate with the holes on the filter base plate.
Basically it is a spanner with two pins that mate with the holes on the filter base plate.
pglaves
#13338
Unless I missed something, leverage is not what is needed. I think the threads are ruined and the filter base turns freely but won't unscrew. I think it needs to be turned and pulled downward at the same time. I envision something with "L" shaped pins that would engage a couple of the big holes in the filter base that would turn it and pull downward on it at the same time.
