It wasn't any harder than a regular bulb replacement . There is no static in the audio system. Maybe I was lucky. Vision seems okay, I am also running Darlas and Ericas.
It wasn't any harder than a regular bulb replacement . There is no static in the audio system. Maybe I was lucky. Vision seems okay, I am also running Darlas and Ericas.
Buck in Greensboro, NC
2013 R 1200 RT Midnight Blue - traded, 2014 R 1200 RT Ebony Metallic, 2016 S 1000 XR
The only static I get is when I use the Radio.. If I use Sat or any other connection its fine. (after searching LED's interfere with the antenna reception)
And I don't see how you got your fingers behind the LED fan to clip the bulb retainers while its still in the bike. I had to use small needle nose pliers to reach between the LEd fan and the light housing. I should have taken pics of the installation. If I take it back out I will take pics..
You need to go buy a lottery ticket if you had zero issues installing and your radio doesn't have static. Your one lucky guy!!
I can change a halogen bulb in the bike, reaching up under the fairing in 2 min.. There is simply no room with the LED.
Last edited by fallguy; 10-05-2016 at 02:39 PM. Reason: added comment
I had trouble replacing the normal bulb. It was a pita to put in the led but so was the regular bulb. I think I bent the wire. I used a long screwdriver with a notch in it. This winter I may take the front end apart and replace the wire.
Buck in Greensboro, NC
2013 R 1200 RT Midnight Blue - traded, 2014 R 1200 RT Ebony Metallic, 2016 S 1000 XR
Does the connector need to be pinched to remove it? Does the connector pull off in the direction of the rear of the bike
Steve
MOA #208308
2016 R1200RT San Marino Blue Metalic,
2017 Yamaha FZ-07
Here are videos of my 07RT bulb removal showing the spring clips.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fRpmO5YomC4
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=h55ApNDRKMY
Nice thanks for that it will help a lot of people doing it for the first time. I've done it blindly twice and concluded I had to push inward on the bowed part of the clip to get the last side out. For some reason trying to move it at the tip where the loop is I just couldn't free it.
You have to push in a little then back then out. If you push out only it stays locked.
Last edited by mikegalbicka; 09-03-2019 at 02:08 PM.
I just changed mine Friday night. It took about 20 minutes and a pretty sore fingertip. As others have said, the 1st spring was pretty easy and the 2nd one was a bear. You have to unplug the headlight socket before you can get to it.
I like the idea of making a tool to press against the springs.
Never get to busy making a living that you forget to make a life.
2018 R1200 RT- 26.5K miles and counting
It looks like you found a nice place to wedge your fingernail between the loop and the cut end of the wire loop. Then it's just a case of a slight pressure directly towards the baseplate, and then sweep it outwards. I assumed this was the way, and indeed I've done it twice now and the 2nd time was quite quick. But...the 2nd side seems to be very hard to release. I'll try the fingernail into that location and maybe it will be a little easier to do.
Thanks to all who posted already, they are really helpful. I'm pretty dexterous; however, I ran into a different problem: the connector would not manually pry off the H7 pins. I ended up releasing both springs with the help of a small screwdriver, then pulled out the bulb assembly far enough to stick a small screwdriver between the bulb and the wire harness and pried it off. Someone mentioned electrical contact grease, I'm ordering Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease to reduce the difficultly of removing the connector in the future.