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Thread: Low beam bulb replacement for 2015 RT

  1. #1

    Low beam bulb replacement for 2015 RT

    I think I just blew out my first light bulb. It seems I've read about replacing them somewhere in the forum, but I don't find anything when I try searching with key words. The manual instruction seems fairly worthless.First, it doesn't mention that it's a no-see-um affair. I removed the cover and the plug that I feel, feels nothing like the picture I'm looking at. It also shows a retaining cage which I can't feel either. I don't want to break anything by forcing it. What am I missing?

  2. #2
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    A good way to search would be to scroll to the bottom of the page and click on "view tag cloud"......Enter low beam and hit search. It might show what you are looking for.
    More on the Tag Cloud here- http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread....Tag-Cloud-quot

    Gary
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  3. #3
    bored, bored ... dlowry's Avatar
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    Only one bulb? I'm on my 4th bulb on the 15 RT. It is a no-see-um affair, however removing the speaker on your side of preference helps. Being left handed I remove the left speaker. Just gives a bit more room for the arm but really doesn't help the no-see-um factor. I had plenty of experience with the 05 RT and the H7 bulbs wiggling them in. Not sure why BMW insists on H7 bulbs as they are probably the most fragile of bulbs IMHO. I've tried OEM, OSRAM motorcycle specific, and then some. I'm tempted to go to LED but I can't find something that is a direct fit. If anyone has seen something please share!
    Dave...
    ----------------
    15 R1200 RT, 12 G650GS
    83 Suzuki XN85 D Turbo

  4. #4
    Ed Kilner #176066
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    Have not had to do this...yet.

    Is it possible to get your cell phone camera in there to get a pic? Have not tried this myself. Do let us know how it worked, if you try this.
    Ed
    2015 R1200RT; 2011 R1200RT RIP; 2000 Triumph 900 (sold)
    http://triumphantsblog.blogspot.ca/

  5. #5
    not so retired henzilla's Avatar
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    Doesn't the manual suggest reaching up from underneath on the Wetheads? The manuals usually have been pretty good on procedure...just have to be careful with bulb retainer clips...if you get flustered, walk away for a bit.
    And don't touch the bulb with out a latex glove or get sweat on it, they do not last as long iffin ya do

    If you have big mitts, it's difficult on any year model. I have reached in with my back to front of bike with hand closest to tank with success. .but it wasnt easy the first time

    Has MAX or someone posted a current YouTube video , last was a Camhead
    Steve Henson-Mod Team and SABMWRA Prez

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  6. #6
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    I just did my low beam not because it burned out but because it had 14K miles on it and I was about to embark on a trip. I have fine boned hands and I did it all from the front of the bike, both arms, contorted and barely squeezing in so I could get the bloody wire harness off. Couldn't do it with just one hand the secret was w/ my left hand to be able to pinch between left thumb and forefinger and assist it off w/ my right hand. I think I had my left arm reaching around the outside of the as-you're-looking-at-it left fork tube to get the correct angle of approach. You have to use good body mechanics and positioning, and do whatever it takes to do it. After pushing the wiring harness gently to the side and out of the way, I found the left and right sides of the wire clip retention mechanism. I knew from looking at realshelby's posted photo kind of what had to happen to free up the left side (driver's right). That went fairly well: I pushed w/ one fingertip, kind of hard to the point of hurting my fingertip a bit, away from its resting place in clasp so that it could then be pushed outward and around the clasp tab. I then tried to do the same thing w/ the right side, but when I did the left side got stuck on a part of the metal clasp--each end of the wire clip terminates in a small loop, the the blithering clasp tang got stuck in the loop! I finally worked the wire free and it took just a couple of minutes more to finish it out as I got a feel for how the wire is put back in its retention location. All told about 45-50 minutes I think and wasn't sure I could succeed. I think I could do it pretty quickly now. The thing about the loop straddling the metal clasp tab I have heard from one of my BMW techs and not sure how to prevent it other than maximum care, blindly basically. I did use a mirror and bright light to see how the loop was stuck, which did help me determine how and exactly where to push on the clip wire which WAS NOT on the loop itself, it was just before the loop started basically.

    It's very unfortunate BMW didn't come up w/ a much more straightforward hold-down mechanism easy peasy engineering challenge it seems to me. I know they appear to be stuck w/ a preexisting bulb design to consider, but still.

  7. #7
    In my workshop, on the tool board, hangs a device called an inspection mirror. It has an oval mirror on a swivel head and an expanding handle somewhat like the pointer my aging algebra professor used to point with and slap into his hand for emphasis.

    It is handy to view locations and objects where I can't position my head and eyes for a direct view. I suggest such a device is perfect to scope out this problem.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  8. #8
    OldBMWMaster JDOCKERY132445's Avatar
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    Retaining clips

    I have pretty strong and tough hands; but I could not get the clips to come loose. I have a very long needle nose pliers with a angled end that worked well. I noticed in the Bob BMW youtube that they do it with the console on the work bench.
    Jerry Dockery
    309 N. 3rd. Ave.
    Kure Beach, NC 28449
    2009 R 1200 RT,1996 R1100RT, 1985 K100RS...too fast to believe.

  9. #9
    Addicted to windshields Realshelby's Avatar
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    I have probably had my bulb(s) in and out more than most.....Tried an LED project or two.
    The easiest way is from the front of the bike reaching up in front of the fork tubes. The horn is in the way, you can remove one bolt and get it clear out of the way or in a pinch simply bend it to the side. The horn mount is easy to bend back into place as well, this is how I done a bulb change in a parking lot. The pic I will post below is my Wethead headlight console on a bench. It shows the components, burn this picture in your mind. You simply cannot see anything from the front, mirrors don't help much. I have a 1/4" steel rod that I cut off at a slight angle, then filed a groove in the end. This can be used to push on the clip wire to get it loose or back in place. One side will go easier than the other, so don't get too discouraged!


  10. #10

    Low beam bulb replacement for 2015 RT

    Thanks everyone (I think). I'm afraid after all these exhaustive responses that my worst fears have been realized. As they say "there may be easier ways, but there are no easy ways."

  11. #11
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    LED Replacements

    I installed a pair of Motoled led H4 bulbs in a friend`s Suzuki a month ago and was extremely impressed with the result, both for beam pattern, brightness and color (very blue-white). We used the 12V, 32W, 3000Lumens version.

    They also make H7 replacements and that`s what I plan to install when one of my LB`s goes.

    Here`s the website (in Italian apparently) but their units seem to be widely available.

    http://www.motoled.co/

    They were plug and play replacements, they come with an inline power adapter that you just plug into the socket in teh bike`s harness.
    Bob
    2014 R1200RT

  12. #12
    Addicted to windshields Realshelby's Avatar
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    Beware of aftermarket LED lights for the Wethead, or any with CanBus systems. Many will throw a code and your "low beam out" light comes up on the dash. Many will say CanBus compliant, but I can tell you absolutely that it isn't always true!

  13. #13
    Ed Kilner #176066
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    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Realshelby View Post
    I have probably had my bulb(s) in and out more than most.....Tried an LED project or two.
    The easiest way is from the front of the bike reaching up in front of the fork tubes. The horn is in the way, you can remove one bolt and get it clear out of the way or in a pinch simply bend it to the side. The horn mount is easy to bend back into place as well, this is how I done a bulb change in a parking lot. The pic I will post below is my Wethead headlight console on a bench. It shows the components, burn this picture in your mind. You simply cannot see anything from the front, mirrors don't help much. I have a 1/4" steel rod that I cut off at a slight angle, then filed a groove in the end. This can be used to push on the clip wire to get it loose or back in place. One side will go easier than the other, so don't get too discouraged!

    That photo is very important. Without it, I would never get the clip off. I is clear that the left and right side of the clip has to be released at the bottom. Would never have guessed that.
    Ed
    2015 R1200RT; 2011 R1200RT RIP; 2000 Triumph 900 (sold)
    http://triumphantsblog.blogspot.ca/

  14. #14
    OldBMWMaster JDOCKERY132445's Avatar
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    Recommendations?

    Quote Originally Posted by Realshelby View Post
    Beware of aftermarket LED lights for the Wethead, or any with CanBus systems. Many will throw a code and your "low beam out" light comes up on the dash. Many will say CanBus compliant, but I can tell you absolutely that it isn't always true!
    Do you have a list of those that would work without throwing codes?
    Jerry Dockery
    309 N. 3rd. Ave.
    Kure Beach, NC 28449
    2009 R 1200 RT,1996 R1100RT, 1985 K100RS...too fast to believe.

  15. #15
    Addicted to windshields Realshelby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDOCKERY132445 View Post
    Do you have a list of those that would work without throwing codes?
    Not a list. I do have one installed at the moment I am "testing" that shows promise. It does not throw a code when low beam is on. What it was doing, on the first ride, was throwing a momentary code when I flipped to high beam. Not sure why that was, but since then it does NOT do that when bringing up high beams and is still ok on low beams.

    To add to the picture I posted earlier, that is the view as you would see it from behind the headlight. Up is up and so on. There is a white plastic part held in place by the %^*& clips, that is an adaptor that was used on my first LED fitment attempt. It shows how the halogen bulb or other led housings are held down. The scratches were attempts to release the springs with a tool I first tried..........

    I will post more on what I have learned after some more seat time to prove it is working to suit me.

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