Rinty
New member
The camera, and operator, are doing just fine. What are you using? The pics in post 39, in particular, are exceptional.
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
'I've never, ever seen roads this bad......' - Alaska-Yukon 16
- Thread starter beemer01
- Start date
The camera, and operator, are doing just fine. What are you using? The pics in post 39, in particular, are exceptional.
beemer01
Active member
Camera phone
Our trip photographer award went to Craig with his Samsung S6. I found his pictures - mostly taken riding!?! were stunning.
The rest were taken with my Canon DSLR with a 18-200 Zoom (not while riding) and a few iPhone shots.
I continue to be blown away by the pictures Craig took - you know, it's not the camera - it's the photographer.....but his stuff was amazing.
More of Craig's artful photos will follow.
Our trip photographer award went to Craig with his Samsung S6. I found his pictures - mostly taken riding!?! were stunning.
The rest were taken with my Canon DSLR with a 18-200 Zoom (not while riding) and a few iPhone shots.
I continue to be blown away by the pictures Craig took - you know, it's not the camera - it's the photographer.....but his stuff was amazing.
More of Craig's artful photos will follow.
Last edited:
beemer01
Active member
Day Sixteen – The Stewart-Cassiar Highway… and some of us try to get Hyderized
The Stewart-Cassiar is a beautiful two lane (and completely paved these days) highway – the Northernmost highway in British Columbia. A winding two lane road with deep forests, crystal clear lakes and towering, snow-capped mountain ranges…. and very little traffic.
But lots of flying critters!
As always, we ride this road briskly, cognizant that the local Mounties really, really frown on speeding.
The last stretch of perhaps 30 miles (named the Glacier highway) down to Stewart BC is one of my favorite roads – narrow and winding, we pass the huge Salmon glacier, see countless waterfalls that plunge down hundreds of feet and overhanging conifers draped with moss.
Stewart is a tiny little Canadian town – that probably has the best tap water in North America – and then there’s Hyder, Alaska.
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/03/us/canada-alaska-hyder-stewart-british-columbia.html?_r=0
As noted in the article, this may be the only entry point back into the States that doesn’t have a Customs office. As Fran had noted “Where on earth would you go from Hyder?” It’s the end of the road, and the few residents like it this way. Later in July and early August the Grizzlies descend from the surrounding mountains for the Salmon run – at this point the humans of Hyder are pretty seriously outnumbered. As a consequence, open carry of large caliber handguns is not only common but recommended in season.
However, we arrived on a Monday. Hyder is essentially closed on Mondays. The entire town which consists of a couple of bars, a ramshackle school bus repainted blue and converted into a semi-permanent fish restaurant (complete with a bear deterring nail studded door mat outside) and a couple of motels – one of which always seems to be for sale.
Plan A was to stop at the Glacier Inn – and have Kris show these of us who enjoy a shot, how to get ‘Hyderized’, and to dine on their excellent fish and chips.
Well, since Monday is everyone’s day off... making Hyder into even more of a ghost town – I created Plan B which consisted of riding back into Canada 15 minutes after we reentered the Hyder and the States. Canada does operate a customs station at this border. (You do have to wonder what decisions you made in your customs career to wind up stationed here). The stern customs agent did a more than through job of vetting us on our trip – but stopped short of taking apart our luggage. But he did point us to the only open restaurant in Stewart where the food was acceptable and the beers cold!
The waitress directed us (sorta) to the municipal campground – actually the prettiest campground we found during our journey. Towering pines, an icy cold trout stream burbling past our site and towering mountains rising up abruptly from the valley floor.
Sleep came easily.
The Stewart-Cassiar is a beautiful two lane (and completely paved these days) highway – the Northernmost highway in British Columbia. A winding two lane road with deep forests, crystal clear lakes and towering, snow-capped mountain ranges…. and very little traffic.
But lots of flying critters!
As always, we ride this road briskly, cognizant that the local Mounties really, really frown on speeding.
The last stretch of perhaps 30 miles (named the Glacier highway) down to Stewart BC is one of my favorite roads – narrow and winding, we pass the huge Salmon glacier, see countless waterfalls that plunge down hundreds of feet and overhanging conifers draped with moss.
Stewart is a tiny little Canadian town – that probably has the best tap water in North America – and then there’s Hyder, Alaska.
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/03/us/canada-alaska-hyder-stewart-british-columbia.html?_r=0
As noted in the article, this may be the only entry point back into the States that doesn’t have a Customs office. As Fran had noted “Where on earth would you go from Hyder?” It’s the end of the road, and the few residents like it this way. Later in July and early August the Grizzlies descend from the surrounding mountains for the Salmon run – at this point the humans of Hyder are pretty seriously outnumbered. As a consequence, open carry of large caliber handguns is not only common but recommended in season.
However, we arrived on a Monday. Hyder is essentially closed on Mondays. The entire town which consists of a couple of bars, a ramshackle school bus repainted blue and converted into a semi-permanent fish restaurant (complete with a bear deterring nail studded door mat outside) and a couple of motels – one of which always seems to be for sale.
Plan A was to stop at the Glacier Inn – and have Kris show these of us who enjoy a shot, how to get ‘Hyderized’, and to dine on their excellent fish and chips.
Well, since Monday is everyone’s day off... making Hyder into even more of a ghost town – I created Plan B which consisted of riding back into Canada 15 minutes after we reentered the Hyder and the States. Canada does operate a customs station at this border. (You do have to wonder what decisions you made in your customs career to wind up stationed here). The stern customs agent did a more than through job of vetting us on our trip – but stopped short of taking apart our luggage. But he did point us to the only open restaurant in Stewart where the food was acceptable and the beers cold!
The waitress directed us (sorta) to the municipal campground – actually the prettiest campground we found during our journey. Towering pines, an icy cold trout stream burbling past our site and towering mountains rising up abruptly from the valley floor.
Sleep came easily.
Last edited:
KenDittrick
Rocky Bow BMW Riders #197
I have a feeling Hyder feels like it is closed most days. Some say there are only three things to do in Hyder - see the bears, see the glacier and drink but we got a kick out of chatting with the locals - most of whom, are of the very independent sort. However the other hotel (Grand View Inn) and the campsite across the street are open always. Just be aware the proprietor of the hotel may be wearing pajamas any time of the day. This year we arrived on a Sunday (July 5th) and found two bars and two hotels open so easily became Hyderized. And yes, we saw two adult grizzlies (one mama with three cubs) while we walked between the Grand View inn and our meal/bevvy place of choice at the Glacier Inn.
Great trip report - keep it coming.
Great trip report - keep it coming.
flyhi2cfar
#102452 Sometimes Hangared... But Always Aimed Out
... miles so far? I'm thinking this trip... has long been over? On a second read, I can't determine when (what date) Beemer 01 & crew BEGAN this great ride!
Will be interesting to learn; I know I spotted one dead JUNE Bug in one of the bike photos!!!
A fine report regardless with excellent photography.
"travel'n" john
Will be interesting to learn; I know I spotted one dead JUNE Bug in one of the bike photos!!!
A fine report regardless with excellent photography.
"travel'n" john
beemer01
Active member
Day Seventeen – Eastbound and down..........After a great breakfast.
We broke camp in the quiet forest - we were nearly the only campers there.
We found, courtesy of Yelp, the coolest breakfast place on our trip called The Rookery/Toaster Museum. And they certainly served the best coffee EVER! And yes, the décor of the restaurant actually consists of antique electrical devices from another era and world. And there were a few electrical toasters included...Vintage cars seem to have found their way to Stuart and are parked out front.
Service was good and the food beyond great. Did I mention the awesome coffee?
We rode back up the Glacier Highway, somehow losing Fran who was lagging behind, he eventually caught up with us way down the highway.
Due to our mandated day of rest, the blown seals and crappy planning on my part, we had to shave two days off the agenda and skip the road out to Bella Coola – with its 18 degree grades, endless open range and towering forests... it wasn’t possible this time as it would add two full days to our agenda. And we all had to get back to work. 2600 miles to go.
I was the trip planner, but given the distances covered so far and the endless possibilities of human frailty and mechanical failure – I never actually plan these last days. We just program our Garmins for home and go.
Garmin directed us back through Prince George, we stayed at the same provincial campground and discovered that the staff had already changed, millennials escaping back to the connected world. The newest park ranger wasn’t quite as cheerful as her predecessor, and she made us pay for the firewood.
Still - a pretty campground!
We broke camp in the quiet forest - we were nearly the only campers there.
We found, courtesy of Yelp, the coolest breakfast place on our trip called The Rookery/Toaster Museum. And they certainly served the best coffee EVER! And yes, the décor of the restaurant actually consists of antique electrical devices from another era and world. And there were a few electrical toasters included...Vintage cars seem to have found their way to Stuart and are parked out front.
Service was good and the food beyond great. Did I mention the awesome coffee?
We rode back up the Glacier Highway, somehow losing Fran who was lagging behind, he eventually caught up with us way down the highway.
Due to our mandated day of rest, the blown seals and crappy planning on my part, we had to shave two days off the agenda and skip the road out to Bella Coola – with its 18 degree grades, endless open range and towering forests... it wasn’t possible this time as it would add two full days to our agenda. And we all had to get back to work. 2600 miles to go.
I was the trip planner, but given the distances covered so far and the endless possibilities of human frailty and mechanical failure – I never actually plan these last days. We just program our Garmins for home and go.
Garmin directed us back through Prince George, we stayed at the same provincial campground and discovered that the staff had already changed, millennials escaping back to the connected world. The newest park ranger wasn’t quite as cheerful as her predecessor, and she made us pay for the firewood.
Still - a pretty campground!
Last edited:
beemer01
Active member
Day Eighteen through Day Twenty-two – Heat, prairies, sudden rainstorms and long days
Programmed to head East – we hit it.
Ice fields Parkway – it turns out – is somehow even more stunning when travelled North to South – I was floored – it was like we’d discovered a whole new amazing Canadian Highway!
Thomas on his more powerful Wasserboxer was wearing his rear tire pretty fast. He called ahead to Calgary and found a suitable replacement tire and a shop willing to put him to the front of the line. Craig offered to pick up the tab for a couple of rooms at a hotel just down the road – I was expecting a Super 8 with the smell of curry, but instead we spent the night in a solid three star hotel, complete with a good bar and restaurant! Thanks Craig!
Four days to reach Chicago – the prairies of the American West were shimmering with heat, two lane roads across Montana – isolated cafes that served big breakfasts – glorious dawns – and the freeways across North Dakota, Minnesota and Wisconsin flashed beneath our tires – heat broken by violent thunderstorms in Wisconsin (which gave our bikes a much needed wash) we continued to make time, the last day was about 850 miles for me.
A story worth telling? Certainly a great bunch of guys and talented riders. I'd ride with any of these guys again!
Programmed to head East – we hit it.
Ice fields Parkway – it turns out – is somehow even more stunning when travelled North to South – I was floored – it was like we’d discovered a whole new amazing Canadian Highway!
Thomas on his more powerful Wasserboxer was wearing his rear tire pretty fast. He called ahead to Calgary and found a suitable replacement tire and a shop willing to put him to the front of the line. Craig offered to pick up the tab for a couple of rooms at a hotel just down the road – I was expecting a Super 8 with the smell of curry, but instead we spent the night in a solid three star hotel, complete with a good bar and restaurant! Thanks Craig!
Four days to reach Chicago – the prairies of the American West were shimmering with heat, two lane roads across Montana – isolated cafes that served big breakfasts – glorious dawns – and the freeways across North Dakota, Minnesota and Wisconsin flashed beneath our tires – heat broken by violent thunderstorms in Wisconsin (which gave our bikes a much needed wash) we continued to make time, the last day was about 850 miles for me.
A story worth telling? Certainly a great bunch of guys and talented riders. I'd ride with any of these guys again!
Last edited:
beemer01
Active member
Lessons learned –
My Grandfather taught me “There aren’t any hard jobs, just jobs done with the wrong tools”. This trip proved the adage.
Apart from the blown fork seals on my son’s 800GS, all bikes performed admirably, absorbing abuse and punishment no machine should ever be subjected to. We did the trip on one set of Heidi 60 Scout tires (OK, Thomas did extra mileage in riding in from Washington DC and had that rear tire changed in Calgary), no one changed oil, and we experienced only one flat tire – all of this on the worst road conditions I’ve ever ridden.
Any bike can be ridden on most roads, but these were the conditions that Adventure Bikes were specifically designed for. There are a thousand design details – some seen, most unseen – that factor into these bikes being able to absorb the abuse and punishment we and the roads piled on them. Day after day.
We packed the right gear, though in my case I didn’t always wear it. Craig proved to be the Garmin guru and programmed each day’s leg in for us. Mileage per day varied, but there were several 800-900 mile stints.
Human frailty was more of an impediment than mechanical failures this year – we’re all getting older. It is what it is. Fifteen hour days are harder now than they were a decade ago. The roads change every day, every hour. Whenever anyone tells you that such and such road is impassable…. take it with a grain of salt. Ten hours later, the same road may well be a snap.
Team chemistry is always a crucial factor – this team worked together, smoothly and well. Differences were aired and then forgotten. Helmet to helmet communication systems are important and the Sena system worked well enough for us.
Would I do it again?
Well, Bella Coola still beckons, and I’d really like to see it………..
Thanks for taking the time to read this post!
My Grandfather taught me “There aren’t any hard jobs, just jobs done with the wrong tools”. This trip proved the adage.
Apart from the blown fork seals on my son’s 800GS, all bikes performed admirably, absorbing abuse and punishment no machine should ever be subjected to. We did the trip on one set of Heidi 60 Scout tires (OK, Thomas did extra mileage in riding in from Washington DC and had that rear tire changed in Calgary), no one changed oil, and we experienced only one flat tire – all of this on the worst road conditions I’ve ever ridden.
Any bike can be ridden on most roads, but these were the conditions that Adventure Bikes were specifically designed for. There are a thousand design details – some seen, most unseen – that factor into these bikes being able to absorb the abuse and punishment we and the roads piled on them. Day after day.
We packed the right gear, though in my case I didn’t always wear it. Craig proved to be the Garmin guru and programmed each day’s leg in for us. Mileage per day varied, but there were several 800-900 mile stints.
Human frailty was more of an impediment than mechanical failures this year – we’re all getting older. It is what it is. Fifteen hour days are harder now than they were a decade ago. The roads change every day, every hour. Whenever anyone tells you that such and such road is impassable…. take it with a grain of salt. Ten hours later, the same road may well be a snap.
Team chemistry is always a crucial factor – this team worked together, smoothly and well. Differences were aired and then forgotten. Helmet to helmet communication systems are important and the Sena system worked well enough for us.
Would I do it again?
Well, Bella Coola still beckons, and I’d really like to see it………..
Thanks for taking the time to read this post!
Last edited:
patiodadio
Motorcyclist
Great ride report, thanks for posting !
nakwakto00
Adventurist
Bella Coola
Did the Bella Coola ride this summer. We made a "loop" of it. Came up Vancouver Island from Victoria to Port Hardy where we caught the ferry to Bella Coola. The ferry ride is long, about 16 hours, but worth it. Bella Coola is beautiful. If you travel there make sure to visit Odegaard Falls - very impressive. "The Hill" out of Bella Coola into Tweedsmuir Provincial Park is 20% grade on hard packed dirt/gravel. It switchbacks right up the side of a mountain. Our only issue was a road grader coming down that left an 18" berm right down the middle of the road. Locals drive this road very fast and will pass you anywhere. You pucker a bit because on one side is a near vertical 1,000' drop with no shoulder. Locals in Anahim Lake say that the river below "the Hill" is filled with cars that went off the road. They pull out the bodies but leave the vehicles. We traveled "the hill" when it was dry but hear it can be very tricky when wet. However, you guys are "pros" when it comes to bad roads. You top out at Heckman Pass at over 5,000' then drop down into the vast Chilcotin Plateau.
There's some great riding in the Chilcotin that's not to be missed. We visited Charlotte Lake, Tatlayoko Lake (incredibly beautiful), and tried to get to Chilko Lake. This summer wasn't the best for the Chilcotin in that it was the wettest in over 11 years. Every day we had thunderstorms. Our mud road riding skills aren't like yours so we turned around once when the mud/clay got between 4-6" deep and the consistency of pudding with globs of grease. The wet weather also helped with making sure there were hordes and hordes of mosquitoes. Bring head nets if you want to stay sane when at camp.
Riding from Fletcher Lake or Dog Creek to Pavilion was very memorable. Some very remote country. Lots of wild horses. Some steep twisty mud/gravel/dirt roads. Oh and again some very steep and narrow sections. (We saw a few vehicles in ravines that were just left there to rot.) Hope you don't see any other vehicles on some corners or steep sections. Road is so narrow not sure what you would do. During 120 miles we only saw 2 other vehicles.
Places to see: Gang Ranch, Farwell Canyon, Tatlayoko Lake, Chilko Lake, Tweedsmuir Prov. Park, Odegaard Falls, Marble Mountains. We had no problem with getting gas, although locals say we were lucky. Might want to consider a can of bear spray if you travel in August when the grizzlies come down to feast on the massive salmon runs. Most locals were very friendly - almost all are native peoples. There are log trucks on the roads and they have the right of way, er... get out of their way. They will NOT move.
On Vancouver Island there's some great riding too. Cape Scott Provincial Park was beautiful. There were wolf warnings when we were there. How often do you have to deal with that in this life? Oh and more mud and even bigger logging trucks.
PM me if you want GPS files or other info.
Did the Bella Coola ride this summer. We made a "loop" of it. Came up Vancouver Island from Victoria to Port Hardy where we caught the ferry to Bella Coola. The ferry ride is long, about 16 hours, but worth it. Bella Coola is beautiful. If you travel there make sure to visit Odegaard Falls - very impressive. "The Hill" out of Bella Coola into Tweedsmuir Provincial Park is 20% grade on hard packed dirt/gravel. It switchbacks right up the side of a mountain. Our only issue was a road grader coming down that left an 18" berm right down the middle of the road. Locals drive this road very fast and will pass you anywhere. You pucker a bit because on one side is a near vertical 1,000' drop with no shoulder. Locals in Anahim Lake say that the river below "the Hill" is filled with cars that went off the road. They pull out the bodies but leave the vehicles. We traveled "the hill" when it was dry but hear it can be very tricky when wet. However, you guys are "pros" when it comes to bad roads. You top out at Heckman Pass at over 5,000' then drop down into the vast Chilcotin Plateau.
There's some great riding in the Chilcotin that's not to be missed. We visited Charlotte Lake, Tatlayoko Lake (incredibly beautiful), and tried to get to Chilko Lake. This summer wasn't the best for the Chilcotin in that it was the wettest in over 11 years. Every day we had thunderstorms. Our mud road riding skills aren't like yours so we turned around once when the mud/clay got between 4-6" deep and the consistency of pudding with globs of grease. The wet weather also helped with making sure there were hordes and hordes of mosquitoes. Bring head nets if you want to stay sane when at camp.
Riding from Fletcher Lake or Dog Creek to Pavilion was very memorable. Some very remote country. Lots of wild horses. Some steep twisty mud/gravel/dirt roads. Oh and again some very steep and narrow sections. (We saw a few vehicles in ravines that were just left there to rot.) Hope you don't see any other vehicles on some corners or steep sections. Road is so narrow not sure what you would do. During 120 miles we only saw 2 other vehicles.
Places to see: Gang Ranch, Farwell Canyon, Tatlayoko Lake, Chilko Lake, Tweedsmuir Prov. Park, Odegaard Falls, Marble Mountains. We had no problem with getting gas, although locals say we were lucky. Might want to consider a can of bear spray if you travel in August when the grizzlies come down to feast on the massive salmon runs. Most locals were very friendly - almost all are native peoples. There are log trucks on the roads and they have the right of way, er... get out of their way. They will NOT move.
On Vancouver Island there's some great riding too. Cape Scott Provincial Park was beautiful. There were wolf warnings when we were there. How often do you have to deal with that in this life? Oh and more mud and even bigger logging trucks.
PM me if you want GPS files or other info.
KenDittrick
Rocky Bow BMW Riders #197
I see you stayed at the Blackfoot Inn - a couple miles from my house - small world isn't it. Wonderful ride report with excellent pictures and commentary.
flyhi2cfar
#102452 Sometimes Hangared... But Always Aimed Out
... Thanks for sharing the adventure with us. Your crew once again proved the point: "breathing is easy... living takes effort!"
"travel'n" john
"travel'n" john
The Chicoton is a trip on its' own.
You might want to consider going north or south cascades, grab a ferry to Victoria, go up island and grab a ferry to Bella Coola then head out.
anytime. I grew up (aged 13yrs to 17yrs) in the Chilcoton, back in the mid-70's.
Little place called Chezacut BC.
five ranches, closest neighbour about 7 miles away (ya miles, Canada did miles and feet and inches back in the 70's!)
Ride Report
Great ride report... thanks for taking me along!
Take a second and give me some stars?
Great ride report... thanks for taking me along!
