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'00 R1100RT interesting clutch experience

K7GLE

New member
Not a problem, but maybe of interest to some:

Had BMW mechanic replace the clutch, lube spline, etc. Did maybe 50 miles of shakedown riding and things seemed fine. Did a fine-tune TB sync and took it up on the freeway to check. Ran it up to just under redline in 2nd for about a minute: silky smooth. Ran it another couple of miles in 5th. At the exit, 5-4 shift was fine, 4-3 shift was fine, but when disengaging the clutch for the 3-2 shift the lever felt very spongy and the shift was hard. At the stoplight I had to really pound the shift lever to get it into 1st, and hold both brakes to keep it from walking out from under me. Proceeded (in 1st) a mile or so to a safe (and shady) place to stop & call the shop.

Turns out the mechanic had slid the clutch actuator rod (that gets pushed by the lever arm at the end of the tranny to disengage the clutch) into place AFTER re-mounting the tranny. He said he does this rather than place it before remounting to prevent bending it. In any case, it apparently wasn't quite seated, and my little run near redline heated things up enough that it seated itself.

So - prior to disassembly I guess a guy should note how far the rod extends from the tranny, so if it sticks out much farther after reassembly it should raise suspicions. At the lever it felt like it had settled about 1".
 
FWIW - On reassembly the rod should be installed and the clutch handle pulled in BEFORE tightening up any engine-transmission bolts. Otherwise there is the possibility of locking in a misalignment as the clutch disk is being dragged across the flywheel face.

(My opinion)
 
Poor service by the dealer and I would make sure the service manager new what happened. No excuse for the clutch issue. I'm surprised it even worked at the beginning of your ride.
 
Thanks for the responses.

The service manager was standing there when I brought it in, and did the diagnosis.

This dealership/shop has experienced a lot of turnover since changing hands recently. The closest alternative is nearly 50 miles away, so I'm pretty much stuck with them. Or time to start getting serious about doing more of my own wrenching. I'll be retiring in a couple of years, so I guess that's more likely.
 
Yes you will want to learn the maintenance requirements of your bike. Most of the stuff on the 1100's is pretty straightforward and not that much different than the earlier airheads. So it is fairly easy to learn and find some local BMW buddies as many of them are very good at the mechanical stuff.
 
So 9000 miles later on the formerly new clutch...

I was on the freeway this weekend and when I had the need to goose the throttle at about 3500 in 5th gear the clutch slipped at about 4000. I tested and it happened again. I pulled off and added some slack to the cable, which was a tad on the tight side. Due to heavy freeway traffic I didn't have the opportunity to test it in 5th again afterward so I don't know if that was the issue.

What are the other possibilities? As you can see from my original post there seemed to be some kind of monkey business when the clutch was installed...could that installation screwup (if that's what it was) result in early clutch slipping? I doubt I glazed it through hard use: I'm pretty easy on clutches - the old one was at 90,000 miles when I preventatively replaced it and the wrench said it had about 15% wear left at the time. Is it possible to get oil into the workings?

If it is glazed - say, from chronically insufficient cable slack - is pulling & servicing it the only solution? By which I mean, is it "once glazed, always glazed"?

All rhetorical right now - I can't spare the room in the garage to tear it apart. Wait until spring, I guess.
 
I've never heard of a "glazed" friction disc or mating surfaces cause slipping but I would think that could be possible. I'd be more inclined to think that was your slipping problem if clutch was engaging rather strangely at times, IE: grabs low, cold clutch, then high, hot clutch.

My gut is that the mating faces probably weren't checked to be true and flat.

I've got a K1100RS with the "slipping" complaint and the clutch was replaced last spring. The mating surfaces aren't close to being flat and lots of heat checks but the friction disc looks fine.

This guys complaint was from the day the clutch was replaced, it engaged high and he felt "chatter" in the lever.
 
So Glen (K7GLE) - have you checked or performed a clutch free play procedure on your R1100RT?

12 mm gap between the adjuster at the lever and the lever itself. 7 mm free play opening when the clutch lever is initially squeezed. This is not difficult for the at home mechanic and is super easy to verify.
 
So Glen (K7GLE) - have you checked or performed a clutch free play procedure on your R1100RT?

12 mm gap between the adjuster at the lever and the lever itself. 7 mm free play opening when the clutch lever is initially squeezed. This is not difficult for the at home mechanic and is super easy to verify.

Wait...You mean it doesn't stay adjusted forever??

Good catch. Haven't touched it since the original problem was "solved" immediately after the replacement...didn't trust the mechanic's "fix" so I re-did that adjustment when I got it back from him, prior to leaving for Alaska. 8000 or 9000 miles on it since then. I'll do that before anything else.

Thanks for the reminder..."First stuff first."
 
I recently purchased a 99 R1100rs with 45k from a N.J. dealer. Since I'm proactive to a fault, I contacted the service department about having the splines lubed and the reaction I received from the dealer was as if I had spoken in Chinese. Upon further inquiry he told me no one ever brings in thier bikes for this service. If that's the case how do I trust them with any confidence in performing the work although he did quote me 1k for the service? I feel more confident in driving to Maine to Chris Harris and have him do it while I stay there during some vacation time.
 
I think the leverage scheme for the system means that slight wear on the disc translates to quite a bit of travel in the lever so watching that slack is important. Ben in Watsonville has a mantra, "make sure there is always enough slack in the system."

I try to keep the bike in neutral with clutch engaged unless I am first to stop at a light and cars are still coming up behind me to stop. As soon as there are couple cars stacked behind me I then get the bike in neutral and take my hands off the bars.
 
I recently purchased a 99 R1100rs with 45k from a N.J. dealer. Since I'm proactive to a fault, I contacted the service department about having the splines lubed and the reaction I received from the dealer was as if I had spoken in Chinese. Upon further inquiry he told me no one ever brings in thier bikes for this service. If that's the case how do I trust them with any confidence in performing the work although he did quote me 1k for the service? I feel more confident in driving to Maine to Chris Harris and have him do it while I stay there during some vacation time.

gagnello - sent you a PM.
 
I try to keep the bike in neutral with clutch engaged unless I am first to stop at a light and cars are still coming up behind me to stop. As soon as there are couple cars stacked behind me I then get the bike in neutral and take my hands off the bars.

Same here, for two reasons: to reduce throwout bearing wear and to prevent a repeat of the time a clutch cable broke while I was waiting at a signal in first gear with the clutch disengaged - shot me right into traffic.
 
independant mechanic in Marin ca Area?

Im in San Rafael Ca (Marin Cty) and looking for a good mechanic for my R1100RT. Nothing to do for now, just gathering info for future. The BMW shop in SF is ok but their prices are wayy up there. There was a guy named Mike in San Rafel who was teriffic but Hes gone now. Anyone??
 
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