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Any high mileage wetheads out there?

At the rally last night I told multiple people how much i loved my rt. Told them i went 166k before the small outer bearing went south on my final drive.I must have jinxed myself because this am before going to the site my driveshaft broke at 172,400 miles.I am disappointed but not crying about it.The shaft on my 06 rt broke at 99,989 miles after getting laid of the day before thanksgiving and having to sit on the shoulder for 2 hours in 28 degree temps.

That's pretty good, 172.4K miles. I've been thinking I'd replace mine at 100K miles just because in some sense it's a consumable and when it goes it's probably a tow job at a minimum, and maybe a crash in the worst case. Either one of those options is going to add cost or worse over just replacing it ad hoc, and saves the inconvenience of a roadside failure or worse. I've read it's possible drive shaft or crown bearing failure could translate into a rear wheel lock up, but I don't know how plausible that really is.

What's the average wethead engine/gearbox/clutch good for? I know I take great care of my '16 RT, ride it respectfully FWIW, so I'm hoping at least 150K miles is quite plausible for the main engine/gearbox/clutch. Likely I won't make it to that many miles at the rate I'm currently riding, but it's possible.
 
That's pretty good, 172.4K miles. I've been thinking I'd replace mine at 100K miles just because in some sense it's a consumable and when it goes it's probably a tow job at a minimum, and maybe a crash in the worst case. Either one of those options is going to add cost or worse over just replacing it ad hoc, and saves the inconvenience of a roadside failure or worse. I've read it's possible drive shaft or crown bearing failure could translate into a rear wheel lock up, but I don't know how plausible that really is.

What's the average wethead engine/gearbox/clutch good for? I know I take great care of my '16 RT, ride it respectfully FWIW, so I'm hoping at least 150K miles is quite plausible for the main engine/gearbox/clutch. Likely I won't make it to that many miles at the rate I'm currently riding, but it's possible.

Your motor will last a LONG time.Mine started using alittle oil at about 133k,it now uses about 1/3rd quart every 6k. I am still on the original clutch but it's getting harder to find neutral at a stop. That was a symptom of the clutch going bad on my 2008 K1200gt. Still only adjusted 2 valves but I am going to check them again soon.
 
High Mileage

I have 70,000 kms on the bike now and so far oil and tires. The valve are all holding and the next service I will check the valve timing, just to make sure. I do all my own maintenance simply because I can't afford to pay someone else to do it. I just switch fro Anekee III to PR4 Trails and they are wearing a lot more even, less cupping on the from and flattening of the rear. I have 13,000 kms on them and have more tire left yet, so far I am pleased.

I'm not a fan of the clutch function, mine like most does not release well after the oil heats up and foams up a bit. I'm now only putting 3.5 liter's in at oils changes in stead of the spec 4.0, to partially relieve this issue. This engine does not use oil so not an issue.

Otherwise normal maintenance checks and that's it. I would recommend this bike to any long distance riders.


Now have 160,000kms and so far so good. Above complaints and comments still are valid. Had to change a couple of shims now, brake pads and front wheel bearings and seals. Flush the brake fluid annually. The only big issues was I had to change the shift module ( not shifting well with speed shifter) and the front forks had to be rebuilt,(new bushings, fork tubes and seals). A new battery went in in the spring, replaced with a non-OEM battery. I switched to Heideneau (sp) tires because I went to Alaska to do the Artic Circle run. My partner had a crash that ended the trip on the top the world hwy. I like these tires and they last forever so still using them. Getting 18,000km on the rear and I have yet wear out the front. (may not be possible.) They are not easy to install on the new GS's with cast wheels because to the shallow and narrow drop dead center. No too bad with spoke GSA rims. started to use a little oil (about 150mls per oil change after 140,000 kms. Other wise simple maintenance, tires and fluids. I will keep this bike for a few more years for sure.
 
I bought a used 2016 R1200RT just this month, it had just over 49,000 miles on it. Seems to be well cared for if finish and lack of visible dents and dings can be trusted. Have the hand written notes of all the oil changes and valve clearance checks. Dealer installed new heated hand grips and a few other parts before the sale. Did not have OEM PR4 GT tires on it, but at least they were new. Dealer included a 12 month estended service warranty but it excludes "seals and gaskets". (RPM One) http://inds.autowarranty.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/BM-904.pdf

My first BMW, but I have been riding for over 50 years. I do like this bike, but the seat and no highway pegs makes my butt and knees hurt. Perhaps more hours riding will help. I can currently ride 750 miles/day on my Harley, 200-300 max on this "Touring" BMW.

I hope it is as trouble free as most of the folks who post here. But I don't have a garage so it sits outside when I'm not riding it. Covered of course. but the Texas sun will still age it.

Should I inspect the drive shaft joints? Or does opening up the boot itself provide entry for problems and gremlins??
 
2018 R1200RT with approximately 13,000 miles. No issues with bike. Very dependable and reliable.

Here are the 12K service results:
Valve Lash Spec:
IN: .10 -.17
EX: .34-.41

Right Side Cylinder
IN: .12mm and .12mm
EX: .38mm and .38mm

Left Side Cylinder
IN: .15mm and .15mm
EX: .38mm and .38mm
 
Rich Henrion had put 100,000 miles on his 2016 R1200RT when he arrived in Hyder, Alaska, in July.
 

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I bought a used 2016 R1200RT just this month, it had just over 49,000 miles on it. Seems to be well cared for if finish and lack of visible dents and dings can be trusted. Have the hand written notes of all the oil changes and valve clearance checks. Dealer installed new heated hand grips and a few other parts before the sale. Did not have OEM PR4 GT tires on it, but at least they were new. Dealer included a 12 month estended service warranty but it excludes "seals and gaskets". (RPM One) http://inds.autowarranty.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/BM-904.pdf

My first BMW, but I have been riding for over 50 years. I do like this bike, but the seat and no highway pegs makes my butt and knees hurt. Perhaps more hours riding will help. I can currently ride 750 miles/day on my Harley, 200-300 max on this "Touring" BMW.

I hope it is as trouble free as most of the folks who post here. But I don't have a garage so it sits outside when I'm not riding it. Covered of course. but the Texas sun will still age it.

Should I inspect the drive shaft joints? Or does opening up the boot itself provide entry for problems and gremlins??

First of all, congrats on your purchase and welcome!

Everybody differs on what is and ins't comfortable for them. I'd put some hours/miles on before attacking the ergonomics. If and when you decide, lots of folks swear by Lamm and Russel Day Long seats. Illium and others provide highway pegs that attach to their tip-over protection bars.

My nickel's worth is that most u-joint problems are caused by water and dirt contamination. The less the boots are messed with, the better.

Enjoy your new scoot!
 
200k now

I passed 200k miles last saturday on my 2015 RT. It's still a great bike .It's alittle noisier at idle and theres alittle more vibration. My Tractiv shocks have about 118k on them now and don't feel as good as when i put them on but I don't think they are shot yet. The bike is using more oil between changes now,about 1/2 quart. But there is NO smoke from the exhaust and the spark plugs look the same color when I change them as they did when the bike was new. As mentioned in an earlier post the final drive and drive shaft had to be replaced but those are the only problems I've encountered. I adjusted 2 valves once to get them back in the center of the spec range and haven't had to adjust any since. When I bought the bike I told the wife I wouldn't buy a new one until this one had 200k on it. This past september 30th i bought a used (6400 miles) K16GT.If the new 1250RT had a modern headlight and the TFT display along with the refreshed looks I would have bought it instead of the GT. Theres no doubt my next bike will be the next RT.
 
No issues at all.

Anybody got alot of miles on their wetheads yet?

How has the reliability been for those high milers?

I assume most of those were replacements for older beemers. Do you like your wethead better?

Not a troll, still considering a 2017 r12rt (would want the abs pro). I haven't ridden a new RT yet although I did ride a r1200rs. Naturally I would spend some time on one before I pulled trigger.

(One of my current bikes is a 2000 r1100rt, fwiw)

2016 1200rt 56,000 miles not a single problem.
 
I have a couple of posts in this thread about the reliability of my GSA. It has been a really great performer, but, its time has come........for us to part ways. I'm 78, and have used my R 1200 RT and R1200 GSA extensively over the past 10 years. The RT, with 125,000 miles on it, was traded for the GSA. It was love at first sight. Until the '15 models came out the only thing lacking on the GSA was electronic cruise control. When I saw the new ones on the floor I was hooked. That's when I switched. Do I have any regrets?

Maybe one or two minor ones. The first is that the RT with its after market windshield was absolutely quiet. The GSA, with its louder exhaust and smaller windshield is noisier. The other regret is that when I drop the bike the first thing I have to do is look for some young stud-muffin to help me pick it up. I never had that problem with the RT. I keep telling myself that it's because the bike's CG and weight just make it harder to pick up. But in reality, my relative age while owning the 2 bikes may have something to do with it.

Anyway, both the RT and the GSA have been very reliable. I used the RT for mostly hard surfaced road travel. When I ran out of new places to visit with it, I shifted to the GSA for a little more dirt/gravel capable bike which enabled me to go beyond the end of the paved road. It served me well when I rode the Iron Butt Lighthouse Challenge Tour, and has now just been ridden for the Key West to Prudhoe Bay, AK ride and the National Parks GOLD Tour. That's ten years and 170,000 miles with no interruption to any of the rides due to failed equipment. I think that says a lot. If you look around, you may find an ad for my GSA "For Sale". Look for me on my '09 G650GS.

Very inspiring read, as has been said it also gives me hope for the future.
 
99k +

Just discovered this thread. Very comforting to hear how many of you have had positive hi-mileage experiences. Bought my 2014 RT last winter at 93k miles and am just about to turn 100k in the next week or so. Previous owner was super diligent about maintenance and the bike runs really well. Just getting signs of needing a clutch replacement, but otherwise no complaints.

update: she did need a clutch in the end, but I sold her with 109k and the dealer said she had lots of miles left to go.
 
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Just getting signs of needing a clutch replacement, but otherwise no complaints.

I don't know if this is still true with the Wetheads as they completely redesigned them but check the clutch fluid reservoir. In the previous generation bikes, the clutch fluid level rises as the clutch wears and thus a hydraulic lock-like situation happens that prevents the clutch from fully disengaging. It presents exactly like a clutch that's about to give up the ghost. Easy enough to check but very easy to miss as it's contra-intuitive.
 
30,000 miles and getting better with every mile. Only complaint replacing H7 bulb every 12,000 miles
 
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Relived old man, somewhat.

PHHHEEEEEWWWWWW that is me breathing one big sigh of relief, I was going to post a question as to whether I had made a huge mistake buying my 2015 RT. See it is my old man bike having known beemers for years, well the Boxer I was lured by it's supposed longevity. I am getting old and it is to take me into my retirement here soon, possibly my last bike purchase. Lately I have been reading some horror stories of failed alternators and a myriad of rather expensive problems. Also read that BMW is second only to Can Am for breakdowns. I thought I was toast, I'll have no money for costly repairs and thought I had been had perhaps. Thing is I abbsolutely love this machine I did not want to have to sell it and replace it with a concours or the such. Reading most of this thread has relaxed me some. I really really like this bike.
 
PHHHEEEEEWWWWWW that is me breathing one big sigh of relief, I was going to post a question as to whether I had made a huge mistake buying my 2015 RT. See it is my old man bike having known beemers for years, well the Boxer I was lured by it's supposed longevity. I am getting old and it is to take me into my retirement here soon, possibly my last bike purchase. Lately I have been reading some horror stories of failed alternators and a myriad of rather expensive problems. Also read that BMW is second only to Can Am for breakdowns. I thought I was toast, I'll have no money for costly repairs and thought I had been had perhaps. Thing is I abbsolutely love this machine I did not want to have to sell it and replace it with a concours or the such. Reading most of this thread has relaxed me some. I really really like this bike.

The rise of the internet has enabled "the sky is falling" disgruntled folks to magnify failures by several orders of magnitude. For example, if you had a K1200LT or R1100 or R1150 you might have just assumed that the final drive on your bike would fail. After all, reading the internet it seemed like every single one of them had or would fail. Except the actual failure rate was something less than 5 percent meaning 95% didn't fail. While that was way too high a failure rate for a modern manufactured product it was no way close to the assumed problem. Certainly, if yours failed, or forbid, failed more than once that is horrible. But for the owners of the other 95% of the bikes the only problem was the worry.

If you really dig down into BMW's current failure rates, or owner complaints they tend to relate to high tech stuff like "my Iphone won't fair with the Nav VI bluetooth. To the counters at the magazines this is one complaint, just as my engine blew up is one complaint. But they need subscribers so say what they say.
 
2014 RT Going strong!

I bought a demo bike in Oct'14 with 1400 miles on it. I just turned 112,000 today. I drive all year long in NC. Regular oil changes, final drive, spark plugs at regular intervals. Had my mechanic look at the valve clearances at 30K...no issues at all. Other than the other posts stating changing the "damn" front headlight (pain in the ass) all the time since I drive about 25K to 30K a year, this bike has been a dream for me. Just drove 375 miles to the coast and back yesterday. I would say to get a better seat though.

Prior bikes were a '85 Yamaha 750 and a '03 F650GS (still in the stable).
 
Had my mechanic look at the valve clearances at 30K...no issues at all....

Have the valve clearances been checked since 30K? I'm guessing so but from the comment it could be interpreted to mean that was the one and only time you checked them. At least they're easy to perform on the boxer engines but it is relatively rare to have one go out of spec it would seem.
 
2015 r1200gsa

now have 175,000 kms and all is well with this bike. I maintain it well and that has served me well. Just greased the drive splines for the third time and as usual all dead dry again. Splines still look good, no signs of wear. Switched to Heideneau TK60 Scouts (sp) a few tires ago and get great mileage from them. They are a little noisy and rough but I can go almost anywhere with these. Started to use a little anti seize on the bolts for the crash bars as corrosion was occurring and made the bolts hard to get out. Did not want to damage the threads. Seems to work well. I generally check the valve every second oil change (10,000 kms)and every second time doing the valves I check the timing of the cams. The last time I checked the cams were out, couldn't quite get the eye glass fixtures on, so I installed the chain tensioner and adjusted the cams. The bike ran considerably smoother, so a good catch. Just changed the front wheel bearings and seals for the third time. Better to change them when they are good then when you are stuck in some mud hole.

I really like this bike and will keep it for at least another year (35,000 kms). The 1250 looks good, except for the brake issue. My friends new one is seeping brake fluid. Dealer says it will stop when the O rings bed in ? Never head of that. We will see.
 
Valve Clearances

Have the valve clearances been checked since 30K? I'm guessing so but from the comment it could be interpreted to mean that was the one and only time you checked them. At least they're easy to perform on the boxer engines but it is relatively rare to have one go out of spec it would seem.

Sorry, That should have stated "checked valve clearances at 60K, not 30K"....and no not since then....I will have them checked again at 120K in about 2 months.
 
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