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Thread: Any high mileage wetheads out there?

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by pappy35 View Post
    I had no idea the headlight bulb (or emitters or whatever they call LED lights) couldn't be replaced. I would lose my mind if I had to cough up two THOUSAND dollars to repair a headlight!
    OMG that makes me feel really good about the H7's in my '16 RT!

    That is awful and does start making an extended warranty sound like a good idea. Just the thought of having to pay $2K for a bloody light let alone the dollar loss would leave such a wretched taste in my mouth the warranty might well be worth it! My bike's original is almost over so I only another 700m until it's over but I don't know if anyone offers warranties this far out into the oem warranty.

  2. #62
    Registered User pappy35's Avatar
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    I looked it up on the MaxBMW site. Unless the '18's went to LED the housing is $1,100 and it takes H7 bulbs.
    '13 R1200RT 90th Anniversary Edition

  3. #63

    2015 rt with 172k and problems

    At the rally last night I told multiple people how much i loved my rt. Told them i went 166k before the small outer bearing went south on my final drive.I must have jinxed myself because this am before going to the site my driveshaft broke at 172,400 miles.I am disappointed but not crying about it.The shaft on my 06 rt broke at 99,989 miles after getting laid of the day before thanksgiving and having to sit on the shoulder for 2 hours in 28 degree temps.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbem View Post
    At the rally last night I told multiple people how much i loved my rt. Told them i went 166k before the small outer bearing went south on my final drive.I must have jinxed myself because this am before going to the site my driveshaft broke at 172,400 miles.I am disappointed but not crying about it.The shaft on my 06 rt broke at 99,989 miles after getting laid of the day before thanksgiving and having to sit on the shoulder for 2 hours in 28 degree temps.
    That's pretty good, 172.4K miles. I've been thinking I'd replace mine at 100K miles just because in some sense it's a consumable and when it goes it's probably a tow job at a minimum, and maybe a crash in the worst case. Either one of those options is going to add cost or worse over just replacing it ad hoc, and saves the inconvenience of a roadside failure or worse. I've read it's possible drive shaft or crown bearing failure could translate into a rear wheel lock up, but I don't know how plausible that really is.

    What's the average wethead engine/gearbox/clutch good for? I know I take great care of my '16 RT, ride it respectfully FWIW, so I'm hoping at least 150K miles is quite plausible for the main engine/gearbox/clutch. Likely I won't make it to that many miles at the rate I'm currently riding, but it's possible.

  5. #65
    Quote Originally Posted by ncpbmw1953 View Post
    That's pretty good, 172.4K miles. I've been thinking I'd replace mine at 100K miles just because in some sense it's a consumable and when it goes it's probably a tow job at a minimum, and maybe a crash in the worst case. Either one of those options is going to add cost or worse over just replacing it ad hoc, and saves the inconvenience of a roadside failure or worse. I've read it's possible drive shaft or crown bearing failure could translate into a rear wheel lock up, but I don't know how plausible that really is.

    What's the average wethead engine/gearbox/clutch good for? I know I take great care of my '16 RT, ride it respectfully FWIW, so I'm hoping at least 150K miles is quite plausible for the main engine/gearbox/clutch. Likely I won't make it to that many miles at the rate I'm currently riding, but it's possible.
    Your motor will last a LONG time.Mine started using alittle oil at about 133k,it now uses about 1/3rd quart every 6k. I am still on the original clutch but it's getting harder to find neutral at a stop. That was a symptom of the clutch going bad on my 2008 K1200gt. Still only adjusted 2 valves but I am going to check them again soon.

  6. #66
    Old Rider - OK Mechanic 105258's Avatar
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    High Mileage

    Quote Originally Posted by 105258 View Post
    I have 70,000 kms on the bike now and so far oil and tires. The valve are all holding and the next service I will check the valve timing, just to make sure. I do all my own maintenance simply because I can't afford to pay someone else to do it. I just switch fro Anekee III to PR4 Trails and they are wearing a lot more even, less cupping on the from and flattening of the rear. I have 13,000 kms on them and have more tire left yet, so far I am pleased.

    I'm not a fan of the clutch function, mine like most does not release well after the oil heats up and foams up a bit. I'm now only putting 3.5 liter's in at oils changes in stead of the spec 4.0, to partially relieve this issue. This engine does not use oil so not an issue.

    Otherwise normal maintenance checks and that's it. I would recommend this bike to any long distance riders.

    Now have 160,000kms and so far so good. Above complaints and comments still are valid. Had to change a couple of shims now, brake pads and front wheel bearings and seals. Flush the brake fluid annually. The only big issues was I had to change the shift module ( not shifting well with speed shifter) and the front forks had to be rebuilt,(new bushings, fork tubes and seals). A new battery went in in the spring, replaced with a non-OEM battery. I switched to Heideneau (sp) tires because I went to Alaska to do the Artic Circle run. My partner had a crash that ended the trip on the top the world hwy. I like these tires and they last forever so still using them. Getting 18,000km on the rear and I have yet wear out the front. (may not be possible.) They are not easy to install on the new GS's with cast wheels because to the shallow and narrow drop dead center. No too bad with spoke GSA rims. started to use a little oil (about 150mls per oil change after 140,000 kms. Other wise simple maintenance, tires and fluids. I will keep this bike for a few more years for sure.
    David Nicholls
    Teulon Manitoba - Canada

    2015 R1200GSA-LC

  7. #67
    I bought a used 2016 R1200RT just this month, it had just over 49,000 miles on it. Seems to be well cared for if finish and lack of visible dents and dings can be trusted. Have the hand written notes of all the oil changes and valve clearance checks. Dealer installed new heated hand grips and a few other parts before the sale. Did not have OEM PR4 GT tires on it, but at least they were new. Dealer included a 12 month estended service warranty but it excludes "seals and gaskets". (RPM One) http://inds.autowarranty.com/wp-cont.../07/BM-904.pdf

    My first BMW, but I have been riding for over 50 years. I do like this bike, but the seat and no highway pegs makes my butt and knees hurt. Perhaps more hours riding will help. I can currently ride 750 miles/day on my Harley, 200-300 max on this "Touring" BMW.

    I hope it is as trouble free as most of the folks who post here. But I don't have a garage so it sits outside when I'm not riding it. Covered of course. but the Texas sun will still age it.

    Should I inspect the drive shaft joints? Or does opening up the boot itself provide entry for problems and gremlins??

  8. #68
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    2018 R1200RT with approximately 13,000 miles. No issues with bike. Very dependable and reliable.

    Here are the 12K service results:
    Valve Lash Spec:
    IN: .10 -.17
    EX: .34-.41

    Right Side Cylinder
    IN: .12mm and .12mm
    EX: .38mm and .38mm

    Left Side Cylinder
    IN: .15mm and .15mm
    EX: .38mm and .38mm

  9. #69
    BMW MOA co-founder bmwdean's Avatar
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    Rich Henrion had put 100,000 miles on his 2016 R1200RT when he arrived in Hyder, Alaska, in July.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by bmwdean; 08-02-2019 at 08:44 PM.
    Jeff Dean
    Tucson, Arizona, and Madison, Wisconsin
    Co-founder, 1972, of BMW MOA -- http://bmwdean.com/r1200rtw.htm
    2017 R1200RT, 2019 R1250RT, 1967 R60/2

  10. #70
    Registered User stooie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wichitagreg View Post
    I bought a used 2016 R1200RT just this month, it had just over 49,000 miles on it. Seems to be well cared for if finish and lack of visible dents and dings can be trusted. Have the hand written notes of all the oil changes and valve clearance checks. Dealer installed new heated hand grips and a few other parts before the sale. Did not have OEM PR4 GT tires on it, but at least they were new. Dealer included a 12 month estended service warranty but it excludes "seals and gaskets". (RPM One) http://inds.autowarranty.com/wp-cont.../07/BM-904.pdf

    My first BMW, but I have been riding for over 50 years. I do like this bike, but the seat and no highway pegs makes my butt and knees hurt. Perhaps more hours riding will help. I can currently ride 750 miles/day on my Harley, 200-300 max on this "Touring" BMW.

    I hope it is as trouble free as most of the folks who post here. But I don't have a garage so it sits outside when I'm not riding it. Covered of course. but the Texas sun will still age it.

    Should I inspect the drive shaft joints? Or does opening up the boot itself provide entry for problems and gremlins??
    First of all, congrats on your purchase and welcome!

    Everybody differs on what is and ins't comfortable for them. I'd put some hours/miles on before attacking the ergonomics. If and when you decide, lots of folks swear by Lamm and Russel Day Long seats. Illium and others provide highway pegs that attach to their tip-over protection bars.

    My nickel's worth is that most u-joint problems are caused by water and dirt contamination. The less the boots are messed with, the better.

    Enjoy your new scoot!
    Bob Stewart
    Salem, OR

    2018 RT

  11. #71

    200k now

    I passed 200k miles last saturday on my 2015 RT. It's still a great bike .It's alittle noisier at idle and theres alittle more vibration. My Tractiv shocks have about 118k on them now and don't feel as good as when i put them on but I don't think they are shot yet. The bike is using more oil between changes now,about 1/2 quart. But there is NO smoke from the exhaust and the spark plugs look the same color when I change them as they did when the bike was new. As mentioned in an earlier post the final drive and drive shaft had to be replaced but those are the only problems I've encountered. I adjusted 2 valves once to get them back in the center of the spec range and haven't had to adjust any since. When I bought the bike I told the wife I wouldn't buy a new one until this one had 200k on it. This past september 30th i bought a used (6400 miles) K16GT.If the new 1250RT had a modern headlight and the TFT display along with the refreshed looks I would have bought it instead of the GT. Theres no doubt my next bike will be the next RT.

  12. #72

    No issues at all.

    Quote Originally Posted by 22893 View Post
    Anybody got alot of miles on their wetheads yet?

    How has the reliability been for those high milers?

    I assume most of those were replacements for older beemers. Do you like your wethead better?

    Not a troll, still considering a 2017 r12rt (would want the abs pro). I haven't ridden a new RT yet although I did ride a r1200rs. Naturally I would spend some time on one before I pulled trigger.

    (One of my current bikes is a 2000 r1100rt, fwiw)
    2016 1200rt 56,000 miles not a single problem.

  13. #73
    Quote Originally Posted by cberry View Post
    I have a couple of posts in this thread about the reliability of my GSA. It has been a really great performer, but, its time has come........for us to part ways. I'm 78, and have used my R 1200 RT and R1200 GSA extensively over the past 10 years. The RT, with 125,000 miles on it, was traded for the GSA. It was love at first sight. Until the '15 models came out the only thing lacking on the GSA was electronic cruise control. When I saw the new ones on the floor I was hooked. That's when I switched. Do I have any regrets?

    Maybe one or two minor ones. The first is that the RT with its after market windshield was absolutely quiet. The GSA, with its louder exhaust and smaller windshield is noisier. The other regret is that when I drop the bike the first thing I have to do is look for some young stud-muffin to help me pick it up. I never had that problem with the RT. I keep telling myself that it's because the bike's CG and weight just make it harder to pick up. But in reality, my relative age while owning the 2 bikes may have something to do with it.

    Anyway, both the RT and the GSA have been very reliable. I used the RT for mostly hard surfaced road travel. When I ran out of new places to visit with it, I shifted to the GSA for a little more dirt/gravel capable bike which enabled me to go beyond the end of the paved road. It served me well when I rode the Iron Butt Lighthouse Challenge Tour, and has now just been ridden for the Key West to Prudhoe Bay, AK ride and the National Parks GOLD Tour. That's ten years and 170,000 miles with no interruption to any of the rides due to failed equipment. I think that says a lot. If you look around, you may find an ad for my GSA "For Sale". Look for me on my '09 G650GS.
    Very inspiring read, as has been said it also gives me hope for the future.

  14. #74
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    99k +

    Just discovered this thread. Very comforting to hear how many of you have had positive hi-mileage experiences. Bought my 2014 RT last winter at 93k miles and am just about to turn 100k in the next week or so. Previous owner was super diligent about maintenance and the bike runs really well. Just getting signs of needing a clutch replacement, but otherwise no complaints.

  15. #75
    Registered User pappy35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zip50 View Post
    ...

    Just getting signs of needing a clutch replacement, but otherwise no complaints.
    I don't know if this is still true with the Wetheads as they completely redesigned them but check the clutch fluid reservoir. In the previous generation bikes, the clutch fluid level rises as the clutch wears and thus a hydraulic lock-like situation happens that prevents the clutch from fully disengaging. It presents exactly like a clutch that's about to give up the ghost. Easy enough to check but very easy to miss as it's contra-intuitive.
    '13 R1200RT 90th Anniversary Edition

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