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r1100rt fuel pump strainer removal?

22893

New member
My 2000 r1100rt died suddenly a few weeks ago several hours from home. Steady driving 70-80 mph (raining). Started again after half an hour for a couple minutes then died.


One brother had a r11rt and it had the exact symptoms with a plugged fuel filter, but I'm told perhaps culprit is HES.

note: I have the old filter out and it is does not blow freely (new dry one blows very freely) but I don't know what is normal in that regard with a used filter than has had gas wet the media. Naturally I am replaced the filter regardless, but I want to make sure the problem does not happen again (major bummer of a day). And I could not reproduce problem once home.

only 30k miles on bike, stored inside, etc.

I bought a new HES as well and was hoping to borrow the HES timing box from someone on this forum to install a new HES, but I was advised I didn't need to time the HES if I simply put the new HES in the same position as the old one (new one bosch).

I bought the RT from another brother so I'm pretty unfamiliar with them. Looking at vids and such which is useful but always a twist like an electrical connector that needs to come off the inside of the plate to remove the fuel pump/filter plate. No biggy but didn't see it in the vids I've seen.

Anyway, my question for now is how do I remove the fuel pump strainer? I have a new one that I might put on, but they are fragile and I don't want to damage it when I take it off or put the new one on?

I recently moved to the greater Gig Harbor Wa area so don't have any experienced BMW buddies here......

update: I pried the old strainer off, decided to put on the new one since I had it. It does not want to just push on. Am I missing something in how the new strainer goes back on?
 
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Couldn't persuade the new green strainer from BBY to go on so I put the original back on. Went on fine.
 
My 2000 r1100rt died suddenly a few weeks ago several hours from home. Steady driving 70-80 mph (raining). Started again after half an hour for a couple minutes then died.


One brother had a r11rt and it had the exact symptoms with a plugged fuel filter, but I'm told perhaps culprit is HES.

note: I have the old filter out and it is does not blow freely (new dry one blows very freely) but I don't know what is normal in that regard with a used filter than has had gas wet the media. Naturally I am replaced the filter regardless, but I want to make sure the problem does not happen again (major bummer of a day). And I could not reproduce problem once home.

only 30k miles on bike, stored inside, etc.

I bought a new HES as well and was hoping to borrow the HES timing box from someone on this forum to install a new HES, but I was advised I didn't need to time the HES if I simply put the new HES in the same position as the old one (new one bosch).

I bought the RT from another brother so I'm pretty unfamiliar with them. Looking at vids and such which is useful but always a twist like an electrical connector that needs to come off the inside of the plate to remove the fuel pump/filter plate. No biggy but didn't see it in the vids I've seen.

Anyway, my question for now is how do I remove the fuel pump strainer? I have a new one that I might put on, but they are fragile and I don't want to damage it when I take it off or put the new one on?

I recently moved to the greater Gig Harbor Wa area so don't have any experienced BMW buddies here......

update: I pried the old strainer off, decided to put on the new one since I had it. It does not want to just push on. Am I missing something in how the new strainer goes back on?
Yeah, sounds like it could be the HES, but i'm curious. Where did your bike live previously? seems that most of the failures are in warmer climes. had mine ('98RT)switched out at 100k just 'cause i was worried and looking at a road trip. it was fine,wires pliable, no cracks now i have a spare! 'Issa' grew up in Whatcom county tho, cool like n Germany. b
 
Yeah, sounds like it could be the HES, but i'm curious. Where did your bike live previously? seems that most of the failures are in warmer climes. had mine ('98RT)switched out at 100k just 'cause i was worried and looking at a road trip. it was fine,wires pliable, no cracks now i have a spare! 'Issa' grew up in Whatcom county tho, cool like n Germany. b

The bike lived in Portland Or. Only driven in moderate and dry weather basically (my brother's style). I bought it pretty recently but already put 8k miles on it.

As far as I've seen so far the old HES wires look like new. Don't have it completely off yet.

I am guessing my other brother was right and the fuel filter was restricted and causing the engine to die at high load (happen to him on a trip at 28k on a 97 r1100rt). But since I couldn't get the bike to fail around this area later I am going to replace the HES as insurance.

I lived in Bellingham from for about 15 years and loved it. Had to move south to find work 20 years ago. One brother still lives up there. Love Whatcom county. And I was born in Germany.....
 
So is the right way to remove a fuel pump strainer just to pry it up around the bottom and to install it just push it on?

Just want to make sure.
 
Swapped out my HES tonight. Old one looks like new (as does everything under the front cover) except for some dust on the front of the plate.

Wires, insulation etc are shiny and supple.

So I am guessing it is fine, but at this point I am too gunshy to not replace it after breaking down on the road. My best guess it was the fuel filter failing to keep up under high demand loads. I am probably a victim of all the info on the internet lol.

Interestingly to me, my old HES plate came new (my brother bought it new) in the most advanced position. So either it was set to the most advanced position at the factory (doubt the dealer did that) or there is variation in the sensors that require adjustment of the plate CCW to signal at TDC.

Anyone else's HES plate come fully advanced position new (max counter clockwise)?

Anyone have a HES timing box they built they are willing to send me to use? I'd gladly pay shipping both ways. (Gig Harbor WA area).
 
So is the right way to remove a fuel pump strainer just to pry it up around the bottom and to install it just push it on?

Just want to make sure.

Old ones smetimes require a "tug", and yes, just pushed on ,tight friction fit.
 
....

Interestingly to me, my old HES plate came new (my brother bought it new) in the most advanced position. So either it was set to the most advanced position at the factory (doubt the dealer did that) or there is variation in the sensors that require adjustment of the plate CCW to signal at TDC.

Anyone else's HES plate come fully advanced position new (max counter clockwise)?

Anyone have a HES timing box they built they are willing to send me to use? I'd gladly pay shipping both ways. (Gig Harbor WA area).

The bike will run at either end of the HES plate adjustment. There is a simple no special tools procedure to check timing of the HES.
You'll find it here:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Oilhead%20Timing%20The%20Easy%20Way.html

In order to see the wiring issue with a bad HES, you have to cut open the wiring sheath in the area behind the HES plate where the leads from the two sensors come together. It is very rare for the actual sensor to fail.
 
The bike will run at either end of the HES plate adjustment. There is a simple no special tools procedure to check timing of the HES.
You'll find it here:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/Oilhead%20Timing%20The%20Easy%20Way.html

In order to see the wiring issue with a bad HES, you have to cut open the wiring sheath in the area behind the HES plate where the leads from the two sensors come together. It is very rare for the actual sensor to fail.

That ADV procedure is for the 1150 (Motronic 2.4 ECU) and what they don't say is it works for the GS and does not work for the RT. I know from personal experience it will not work on either of my 1100RTs (96 and 00).

You need to use the home built timing box or a normal automotive timing light and set it through the TDC view hole. Using an inductive timing light works very well. Time to the S mark for 1000 RPM or lower and the F mark for high RPM (full) advance.

There is a voltmeter method described in this thread that might work for you also. Never tried it though.
http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?79221-Setting-a-Hall-Sensor-Plate-(Ignition-Timing)-96-R1100RT&p=994052&viewfull=1#post994052
 
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