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2015 RT - Starting or Battery Issue?

ExGMan

Active member
I have a 2015 RT with 8800 miles on the ODO. It went into service in April 2015 as a dealer demonstrator. I bought it in July 2015. My practice is to keep it plugged into an Optimate-4 unit whenever it's in my garage. This served me well with my 2008 RT, so I figured I'd do the same with the new one.

Three weeks ago I returned from a 2.5-week trip overseas. I unplugged the Optimate and started the bike. All the time I'd owned the bike, it would start with just a single push on the starter button. Since returning from the trip, it always takes two pushes. The starter seems to sound just as strong as it always had, but the engine just doesn't start (when cold) as it had. Once it's warm it starts immediately with one push.

Omega Man and I have been in texting conversation about this. His first suggestion was to crack the throttle a bit on starting. That did not change anything. His next suggestion was to see about battery voltage on starting. Since this RT has a voltage readout, I switched the display to constantly show that number. I found that after turning on the ignition and letting the RT prepare itself to start, the voltage displayed "12.1volts," dropped down to "11.7" then rose back up to "12.1." I then started the engine (two pushes of the button of course), and within 20 seconds the voltage climbed to "14.1volts" where it stayed until the engine was shutdown.

Omega Man suggested that the battery needs a load test to determine its health. I'll look into doing that this week.

I hope that someone who reads this has some wisdom or experience with this situation. Thanks for reading.

John
 
I agree with OM. The first step in addressing starting difficulties is always to make sure the battery is in good health, and its connections are sound.
 
How is a "load test" actually performed on the RTw? I'd envision removing the battery and driving it over to Auto Zone or someplace that advertises free testing. But removing the battery on an RT, I understand, is not so simple. So, my questions are, is removal simple, and is removal even necessary?
 
How is a "load test" actually performed on the RTw? I'd envision removing the battery and driving it over to Auto Zone or someplace that advertises free testing. But removing the battery on an RT, I understand, is not so simple. So, my questions are, is removal simple, and is removal even necessary?

I'd ride to the the testing center of choice, remove the panel in order hit the negative post and the jump point (see manual Page 129), easy.

Jay
 
John
Where are you plugging your charger in. If on the right upper fairing very good chance it shuts off and will not charge. On both my 1600 and RTWC I installed a fused Powerlet plug which has solved the canbus issue, this as recommended by my purchasing dealer
 
John
Where are you plugging your charger in. If on the right upper fairing very good chance it shuts off and will not charge. On both my 1600 and RTWC I installed a fused Powerlet plug which has solved the canbus issue, this as recommended by my purchasing dealer

I'm plugging in the Optimate to a SAE Pigtail connected to the battery terminals. The pigtail was installed in the bike before I bought it. I had the same arrangement on my 2008 RT. Even though I have the Optimate Canbus device, I go directly to the battery.
 
I hope that someone who reads this has some wisdom or experience with this situation. Thanks for reading.

John

No wisdom for you, but you're not alone.
I've been reading where other wethead owners have to do the two push thing to start their bike.
I saw a post a couple days ago where the owner didn't have the problem until his bike had approx. 7,000 miles.
So far I have not seen a fix mentioned.
 
Umm, and the battery is where?

I'd ride to the the testing center of choice, remove the panel in order hit the negative post and the jump point (see manual Page 129), easy.

Jay

Hi,

I'd like to install a pigtail on m y 2016 RT in order to use my CTEK charger, how do I access the battery? I'd rather not start removing panels randomly until I find it...:banghead

Thanks,
Ski
 
Hi,

I'd like to install a pigtail on m y 2016 RT in order to use my CTEK charger, how do I access the battery? I'd rather not start removing panels randomly until I find it...:banghead

Thanks,
Ski

Ski,

You use the same post's (- +) as above. You may want to consider visiting your dealer.

Jay
 
SKI
Bikes right side panel surrounding oil fill. This will expose battery negative post and a positive (red) post just forward of battery
FYI the screws holding panel on have two different length shoulders and the rubber grommet can be a bit pesky
 
Got it, Thanks!

SKI
Bikes right side panel surrounding oil fill. This will expose battery negative post and a positive (red) post just forward of battery
FYI the screws holding panel on have two different length shoulders and the rubber grommet can be a bit pesky

You called it, Thanks!

The rubber grommet is more than a "little" pesky.....
 
John,
I wouldn't go down the rabbit hole too far. Mine came out of the box this way. I use a BMW trickle charger, like you I pulled up the voltage readout in a troubleshooting attempt with the same results. I don't think it's a voltage issue, I think it's an ecu issue. The fuel air mixture cocktail on a cold start seems off slightly. I think it's going to take a software fix from der mottorrad company from Bavaria.
 
SKI
Bikes right side panel surrounding oil fill. This will expose battery negative post and a positive (red) post just forward of battery
FYI the screws holding panel on have two different length shoulders and the rubber grommet can be a bit pesky

Thanks. This is good info. Was aware of the pesky screws but not aware of theexposore to the terminal remotes.
 
So, if your battery has enough reserve that your bike starts at a second try, nothing is wrong with the battery.

Your bike's under warranty--have your dealer address this problem.
 
I have the same issue with my '14 RT with 12k km.
I stopped taking video evidence of the problem with my IPhone when I'd saved 6 or so videos. On my machine it will crank/not start when cold on between 2/3 and 3/4 of the time.

It's not the battery. Guaranteed. If it were, cranking for 5s without it starting would make it less likely to immediately fire the very next time I press the starter button.
It always starts the instant the button is pressed the second time.

I took the bike into my dealer in Vancouver, BC to explain the issue. I didn't need to. He didn't even want to see the videos. The dealer was well aware of the issue and has said that there is a PUMA (???) ticket in and that the Mothership is working on a solution. He suggested I check back later but told me that the dealers have been told that customers need not worry - the bike will always start second push (I also have every confidence in this, from my experience) and that they are working hard (in Germany) to trace the issue and find a solution.

A bit embarrassing to be honest on a $30k machine. That said, I wouldn't swap it for anything!

Let's stay tuned.

Alasdair

I have a 2015 RT with 8800 miles on the ODO. It went into service in April 2015 as a dealer demonstrator. I bought it in July 2015. My practice is to keep it plugged into an Optimate-4 unit whenever it's in my garage. This served me well with my 2008 RT, so I figured I'd do the same with the new one.

Three weeks ago I returned from a 2.5-week trip overseas. I unplugged the Optimate and started the bike. All the time I'd owned the bike, it would start with just a single push on the starter button. Since returning from the trip, it always takes two pushes. The starter seems to sound just as strong as it always had, but the engine just doesn't start (when cold) as it had. Once it's warm it starts immediately with one push.

Omega Man and I have been in texting conversation about this. His first suggestion was to crack the throttle a bit on starting. That did not change anything. His next suggestion was to see about battery voltage on starting. Since this RT has a voltage readout, I switched the display to constantly show that number. I found that after turning on the ignition and letting the RT prepare itself to start, the voltage displayed "12.1volts," dropped down to "11.7" then rose back up to "12.1." I then started the engine (two pushes of the button of course), and within 20 seconds the voltage climbed to "14.1volts" where it stayed until the engine was shutdown.

Omega Man suggested that the battery needs a load test to determine its health. I'll look into doing that this week.

I hope that someone who reads this has some wisdom or experience with this situation. Thanks for reading.

John
 
Seems like this is common wethead characteristic as opposed to a "problem." For some reason, the issue has disappeared on my RT and it starts on the first push of the starter button. It may return, but at least it's not a battery issue.
 
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